Australian Cycling Forums - Bicycles Network Australia

Got an 11-34 12s cassette to run on the new bike. 12s Ultegra di2. Anyway put it on the WR50 with DT350 hub. Installed but nup, adjustment through the gears is well out and it struggles to get into the 11.
Put it on the Reynolds rear wheel the bike came with and it shifts perfectly.
Took a photo this am and it seems the cassette alignment between the 2 hubs is significantly different. I guess I can learn to retune the di2 for the different cassette alignment but would rather they just be in the same spot
Anyone got any ideas what is going on here and how to fix it?

You've probably already checked this but with 12-speed shimano cassettes the 11-cog needs to be installed very carefully to ensure it falls into place correctly. It's easy to get this wrong.

^^^ I’m no expert on 12 speed stuff but …

Can you use spacers on one of the hubs to make the distance from the smallest cog to the derailleur exactly the same for both - and then tube the Di2 to this new setting ???
Cheers

warthog1 wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 12, 2024 9:38 am

prefer they just be in the same spot

On traditional hubs one can add/delete washers between the drive side bearing cone and the locknut to adjust the location of the gear set relative to the frame and thus the derailleur.

Is something similar possible with either of your wheels?

Thanks fellas
Forgot to hit save when editing to add photo I think. Been for a ride.
Had the cassette off several times. No washers there, 11t gear is in correctly.
I have two sets of wheels with DT350 hubs. Have used both on the Revolt with 11s and they are spaced the same and shift the same.
As per the photo the hub on the Reynolds wheel has more axle protruding so means the cassette is more inboard vs the derailleur. Maybe the hub on the Reynolds wheel can be adjusted or the cassette spaced out? I don't think the DT350 can.

elantra wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 12, 2024 1:49 pm

^^^ I’m no expert on 12 speed stuff but …

Can you use spacers on one of the hubs to make the distance from the smallest cog to the derailleur exactly the same for both - and then tube the Di2 to this new setting ???
Cheers

That might be a solution

Maybe a dumb question, does swapping cassettes so the old one is on the DT350 yield the same issue?

Also 12sp Shimano cassettes have a adhesive ring behind the last gear that is sometimes missing, but I don't think it would cause any misalignment as you can remove them and run the cassette fine.

It's the offset on the hubs. They're just different.

You should be able to space one to make it identical to the other, but I'd imagine it's pretty fiddly!

I've had this issue swapping bikes on and off the trainer.

Spacer ring but also measure the distance from the top cog to the lug and that should tell you the dfference.

Foo

blizzard wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 12, 2024 4:01 pm

Maybe a dumb question, does swapping cassettes so the old one is on the DT350 yield the same issue?

Also 12sp Shimano cassettes have a adhesive ring behind the last gear that is sometimes missing, but I don't think it would cause any misalignment as you can remove them and run the cassette fine.

Yes, that is the 11-30 on the dt350 in the photo. I had a good look for any spacers but it shifts perfectly on the Reynolds. Did 120k on it today.
Love the gearing of the 11-34 with the 52/36 rings

Mr Purple wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 12, 2024 4:15 pm

It's the offset on the hubs. They're just different.

You should be able to space one to make it identical to the other, but I'd imagine it's pretty fiddly!

I've had this issue swapping bikes on and off the trainer.

They shouldn't be different but they are are. Yeah will see if I can find a 10s spacer in my boxes of sh it and see how that goes.

foo on patrol wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 12, 2024 6:54 pm

Spacer ring but also measure the distance from the top cog to the lug and that should tell you the dfference.

Foo

Yeah it may be less than 1.85mm. Good idea.

It's quite common for different brand hubs to have different offsets, however that is a bit more pronounced than usual. DO NOT put spacers where they are not specified; it can lead to insufficient lockring thread engagement, which can lead to freewheel body damage.

Duck! wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 12, 2024 7:32 pm

It's quite common for different brand hubs to have different offsets, however that is a bit more pronounced than usual. DO NOT put spacers where they are not specified; it can lead to insufficient lockring thread engagement, which can lead to freewheel body damage.

Bugger!
Thankyou, for the advice coming from experience.

Even 20 years ago when I started in the bike biz, when 10-sp. was the Big New Thing, it quickly became apparent that Mavic and Zipp hubs had a particularly noticeable difference in alignment. Very common use back then was for riders to have a set of Mavic (usually Ksyrium series) for general/training use, and a set of Zipps for race day, and invariably they'd come in for a swap a few days before a race, and a swap back a few days after. I pretty quickly learned exactly how much I needed to tweak the limit screws and cable tension to suit the different hubs!

Thanks Duck! Much appreciated.
Just had a look at a Sun Ringle maintenance document and there is no adjustment.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source= ... JG1MRJBWmL

Doesn't look too hard to adjust anyway.



May need to adjust the limit screw at the bottom too maybe.

The beauty of Di2 rear derailleurs of all generations is that they're not reliant on the limit screws to dictate the "resting" alignment of the derailleur, unlike mechanical types; in fact they actually need the screws to be backed off a bit from the stops in the derailleur body. This is because the derailleur's shift program has a very slight overshift that sends it slightly past the optimal alignment for the selected gear to ensure snappy (not in that way!) chain engagement, before correcting back into proper alignment. The limits still act as a bit of a safety backup, but much less critical than a mechanical system.

So you can afford to back both limits out a bit; set the low (inner) to suit the more inboard Reynolds/Ringle hub, and the outer limit for the DT, then just use your micro-tune to adjust between the two wheels. Once you've done it a few times you'll know how many clicks are needed to adjust for each wheel.

Excellent, thanks again Duck!

Clear case of N+1

I wouldn't say no to another set of wheels. I love carbon wheels.
I might be n-1 for somewhere to live if I did that though, so soon after buying an expensive bike

warthog1 wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 21, 2024 8:31 pm

I wouldn't say no to another set of wheels. I love carbon wheels.
I might be n-1 for somewhere to live if I did that though, so soon after buying an expensive bike

Foo