Tubeless roadbike tyres

[Mr Purple]

You may well be right.

I suspect the answer is a better bike fit, and potentially a slightly longer stem and frameset. The last KOM I took on those road tyres was 450W for 1:13, and half of that was down a steep hill. The bike was literally jumping off the road on the 15% climb that started it.

I'm 172cm and suspect my initial road bike bought in 2009 or so was slightly too short for me. And since then because I was comfortable on that the two subsequent frames have been based on those measurements. The reason I can't sit to climb is because it's uncomfortable to do so - I suspect I'll need to stretch out a bit more and correct for my leg length discrepancy.

This does not happen at all on my gravel bike. Despite that taking more KOMs than my road bike currently - it's a bit longer, you have to stay seated to climb on most gravel segments and it rewards finesse more than brute strength.

Why is it every question in cycling is answered with 'n+1'?

[blizzard]

You may well be right.

I suspect the answer is a better bike fit, and potentially a slightly longer stem and frameset. The last KOM I took on those road tyres was 450W for 1:13, and half of that was down a steep hill. The bike was literally jumping off the road on the 15% climb that started it.

I'm 172cm and suspect my initial road bike bought in 2009 or so was slightly too short for me. And since then because I was comfortable on that the two subsequent frames have been based on those measurements. The reason I can't sit to climb is because it's uncomfortable to do so - I suspect I'll need to stretch out a bit more and correct for my leg length discrepancy.

This does not happen at all on my gravel bike. Despite that taking more KOMs than my road bike currently - it's a bit longer, you have to stay seated to climb on most gravel segments and it rewards finesse more than brute strength.

Why is it every question in cycling is answered with 'n+1'?

Maybe a bike fit and even some coaching sessions on climbing out of the saddle technique? If I climb out of the saddle I just do whatever feels ok, but I do know there is proper technique to help distribute weight better and climb more efficiently. I guess like anything it's a skill that can be learned. You might even get more KOMs as a result.

[Mr Purple]

Maybe a bike fit and even some coaching sessions on climbing out of the saddle technique? If I climb out of the saddle I just do whatever feels ok, but I do know there is proper technique to help distribute weight better and climb more efficiently. I guess like anything it's a skill that can be learned. You might even get more KOMs as a result.

I have done a few rides with a mate who's a physio - he's pretty convinced it's a leg length discrepancy with a compensating scoliosis and as a result I have to stand to correct it. Though his theory was it was effective enough that I don't have to worry about it just yet - rear tyre wear excepted.

There's no doubt standing on some climbs is significantly slower for a given power, but I suspect the given power is a lot higher than it would be seated. Sooner or later I won't be able to rely on VO2Max and will have to sort the technique out a lot better.

I'm vaguely considering a new bike at some stage so will get a bike fit with a decent physio before doing it. Might need some shims or something as well.

[MichaelB]

You just may need Traction Control Mr Purple !

That, or set up a company as a tyre reseller and get trade pricing based on the usage of you alone !

[Mr Purple]

You just may need Traction Control Mr Purple !

That, or set up a company as a tyre reseller and get trade pricing based on the usage of you alone !

Well it's not that bad.

I probably only do about 100km in an average week on the road bike now - the rest indoors on gravel. So one rear tyre lasts 800km, that's 8 weeks and 6.5 a year - at $75 apiece that's $487 or 9.3c/km. By comparison my BMW gets 9L/100km, so about 20c/km.

Actually, that is pretty bad!

[MichaelB]

You just may need Traction Control Mr Purple !

That, or set up a company as a tyre reseller and get trade pricing based on the usage of you alone !

Well it's not that bad.

I probably only do about 100km in an average week on the road bike now - the rest indoors on gravel. So one rear tyre lasts 800km, that's 8 weeks and 6.5 a year - at $75 apiece that's $487 or 9.3c/km. By comparison my BMW gets 9L/100km, so about 20c/km.

Actually, that is pretty bad!

You'll soon have to go for shorter and shorter road KOM's as they cost you too much

[Mr Purple]

You just may need Traction Control Mr Purple !

That, or set up a company as a tyre reseller and get trade pricing based on the usage of you alone !

Well it's not that bad.

I probably only do about 100km in an average week on the road bike now - the rest indoors on gravel. So one rear tyre lasts 800km, that's 8 weeks and 6.5 a year - at $75 apiece that's $487 or 9.3c/km. By comparison my BMW gets 9L/100km, so about 20c/km.

Actually, that is pretty bad!

You'll soon have to go for shorter and shorter road KOM's as they cost you too much

The shorter ones are worse! Pretty sure the 300m long 14% one I took at 690W a couple of months back killed one tyre on its own. You could hear the 'ching, ching' of tyre manufacturer cash registers as it happened.

The fact the segment was called 'Argh!' was probably a warning sign.

[vosadrian]

If anyone sees any good Black Friday deals on tubeless tyres, could they post it here? Particularly the Contis I am interested in. I want to find a good deal and fill the cupboard for a year or two's supply if there ire any good deals that is.

[Mr Purple]

If anyone sees any good Black Friday deals on tubeless tyres, could they post it here? Particularly the Contis I am interested in. I want to find a good deal and fill the cupboard for a year or two's supply if there ire any good deals that is.

I'll let you know - given I'm a consumer of tyres I'm always on the lookout.

Best deal currently I've seen is $49 for Goodyear Eagle F1 tubeless at CCache. A pair just arrived today for me.

https://ccache.cc/collections/road-tyre ... tyre-black

[warthog1]

They have some reasonable deals there.
https://ccache.cc/collections/road-tyre ... -ascending

[vosadrian]

Goodyears certainly seem cheap. Any experience with them here? Appears they review as a level below the Contis, but maybe the price is worh that.

[Mr Purple]

Goodyears certainly seem cheap. Any experience with them here? Appears they review as a level below the Contis, but maybe the price is worh that.

Not yet - there's about 3W rolling resistance between them and the Contis, but the Vittoria NEXT TLR I currently use are about the same and they've been fine.

https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.co ... ext-tlr-28

Interestingly I hadn't really noticed a huge speed difference between tubed and tubeless since I changed over in April. But did a couple of Gravatts last week - a climb I've been avoiding since April because I always find the need to VO2Max it and it hurts.

It's a bumpy, twisty descent and despite taking it what I thought of as relatively easy I set two PBs on it last week. I think just a result of lower pressures leading to greater confidence there in particular.

[vosadrian]

I ride a normal road bike (Venge) and a recumbent bike. I have back issues and I can do much longer rides in a reclined position as my back causes a lot of pain on a normal road bike beyond an hour or two. The recumbent is super aero (like as good/better than a good TT rig). I can coast along at 40kph (flat roads) at around 160-180W. On that bike I really notice small changes in tyre resistance and aero etc, If you can gain 3W per tyre, that can make a significant different to your average speeds on that bike, so I like quick tyres. I just use the same tyres on both bikes to simplify maintenence. On the road bike I tend to do hilly routes, and I doubt the tyre speed has much effect on my overall average speeds on that bike... but I like running lower pressures on that bike for comfort and grip on technical descents.

I think I will wait until black friday and see if any deals come up on Contis, but if not I might grab a few of the Goodyears to give them a go.

[Mr Purple]

Opposite use scenario to me then! I just do lots of climbing and lots of descending, and kill tyres quickly.

'Price' is the main consideration. Rolling resistance probably makes little difference, but I don't like being discouraged by weather so wet grip is also a big factor. Other than that punctures haven't been an issue on tubeless (yet).

I'd sort of like to try the very fastest road tyres at least once (Vittoria Corsa Speed TLR at 7.0W) to see what they're like, but suspect I'll kill them before I really get the chance to find out.

[vosadrian]

Unless you are spending considerable time on fast roads you will not see much difference with good rolling resistance tyres. I do a fair bit of elevation because of where I live (rarely a ride is < 1000m elevation per 100km), but some of these rides are rolling hills that are not technical so no braking and you can do higher average speeds (>40kph on the recumbent). The longer hill rides (with tehcnical descents) I do on the road bike are around 30kph average (but at much higher power) so still some benefit to good tyres but not as much. A 150-180W ride at 35-40kph will show much more benefit in fast tyres then a 30kph ride at around 200-220W.

[warthog1]

Ive been happy with Conti before the prices went through the roof.
Since used Pirelli, Michelin and Vittoria. Honestly noticed no difference in speed.
Dont even look at Conti anymore due to price.

[vosadrian]

I can't find any good deals for black friday on the Contis.

[foo on patrol]

I can't find any good deals for black friday on the Contis.

I saw some yesterday or the day before but can't remember who had then.

Foo

[grt046]

I haven't ridden the road bike this month due to some prostrate issues (surgery next Saturday) so I put it on the stand and spun the wheels for a while to distribute the sealant.
On checking it over and dusting it down I noticed a small bubble of sealant still sticky on both wheels .... one spot on each. No significant loss of pressure so fingers crossed it is doing its job.
Will keep a check on it for a while.
I was a bit surprised this occurred after a period of no use.

[warthog1]

I haven't ridden the road bike this month due to some prostrate issues (surgery next Saturday) so I put it on the stand and spun the wheels for a while to distribute the sealant.
On checking it over and dusting it down I noticed a small bubble of sealant still sticky on both wheels .... one spot on each. No significant loss of pressure so fingers crossed it is doing its job.
Will keep a check on it for a while.
I was a bit surprised this occurred after a period of no use.

What tyres and what sealant?

Good luck with the surgery, hope it improves things.

[grt046]

What tyres and what sealant?

Good luck with the surgery, hope it improves things.

Thanks

Tyres are Pirelli
P Zero Race (30) front
Cinturato Velo (32) rear

Tyres were installed by the local TREK shop so Bontrager TLR sealant used.

[warthog1]

What tyres and what sealant?

Good luck with the surgery, hope it improves things.

Thanks

Tyres are Pirelli
P Zero Race (30) front
Cinturato Velo (32) rear

Tyres were installed by the local TREK shop so Bontrager TLR sealant used.

Haven't used that sealant but it seems to be doing its' job and some must still be liquid after sitting unused.

I don't know if you have had a go yourself yet. If you search youtube "tubeless tire install" some useful vids are there.

[blizzard]

Stripped down my front GP5000TL today to swap sealant from OKO to Orange Seal. I've been putting it off for months, literally running with no sealant in the front tyre (I haven't ridden much at all this year).

What a pain to get off the rim and then cleaning dried sealant off the rim and tyre. Surprisingly easy to get the tyre back on, I got it so there was only about 10cm or so to go, and it was pretty tight. Then I remembered the trick of standing on the tyre with the last section on the ground and then using the rim as lever to pull it on... Worked a charm. Seated first time with an air shot.

As an aside, I think I have about 9000km on these tyres and there is still life in them. I put it down to heaps of flat Bikeway KMs on smooth concrete (and poor power output).

[grt046]

What tyres and what sealant?

Good luck with the surgery, hope it improves things.

Thanks

Tyres are Pirelli
P Zero Race (30) front
Cinturato Velo (32) rear

Tyres were installed by the local TREK shop so Bontrager TLR sealant used.

Haven't used that sealant but it seems to be doing its' job and some must still be liquid after sitting unused.

I don't know if you have had a go yourself yet. If you search youtube "tubeless tire install" some useful vids are there.

Well after putting a toe in the water with a tubeless conversion on my Orbea Gain with an initial shaky start I am now at a stage where I need to take the next step and set myself up to manage things myself rather that use the local TREK shop over the road (300 metres away)

I have watched a number of videos and researched sealant tests which come up with conflicting results so am looking some real world feedback on what works best in our climate.

As my cheapie track pump is some 14 years old I am considering replacing it with something like a Topeak Joe Blow Booster HP Road Floor Pump or alternatively an Airshot tyre inflator rather than a compressor as living in a smallish villa with single garage where space is at a premium.
I am currently using Pirelli tyres set up with Bontrager TLR sealant as installed by the TREK shop. (Details above)
As for sealant I am a bit confused as it would appear that Stans Original and Orange Seal Endurance seem popular locally although they didn't perform too well in some artificial testing (Screwdriver puncturing in differing sizes)
The Silca sealant seemed best at sealing large holes with its c/f content I have ruled that out as it can't be injected through the valve stem.

Any real world experiences/recommendations would be appreciated.

[grt046]

What tyres and what sealant?

Good luck with the surgery, hope it improves things.

Thanks

Tyres are Pirelli
P Zero Race (30) front
Cinturato Velo (32) rear

Tyres were installed by the local TREK shop so Bontrager TLR sealant used.

Haven't used that sealant but it seems to be doing its' job and some must still be liquid after sitting unused.

I don't know if you have had a go yourself yet. If you search youtube "tubeless tire install" some useful vids are there.

Well after putting a toe in the water with a tubeless conversion on my Orbea Gain with an initial shaky start I am now at a stage where I need to take the next step and set myself up to manage things myself rather that use the local TREK shop over the road (300 metres away)

I have watched a number of videos and researched sealant tests which come up with conflicting results so am looking some real world feedback on what works best in our climate.

As my cheapie track pump is some 14 years old I am considering replacing it with something like a Topeak Joe Blow Booster HP Road Floor Pump or alternatively an Airshot tyre inflator rather than a compressor as living in a smallish villa with single garage where space is at a premium.
I am currently using Pirelli tyres set up with Bontrager TLR sealant as installed by the TREK shop. (Details above)
As for sealant I am a bit confused as it would appear that Stans Original and Orange Seal Endurance seem popular locally although they didn't perform too well in some artificial testing (Screwdriver puncturing in differing sizes)
The Silca sealant seemed best at sealing large holes with its c/f content I have ruled that out as it can't be injected through the valve stem.

Any real world experiences/recommendations would be appreciated.