Torque wrench recommendation under $50

[MichaelB]

Have been reading this thread with interest, and owning the BBB version of the torque wrench that is often relabelled as many others (the 2nd Venzo one listed above).

And whilst the torque wrenches are a valuable tool, there ae many misconceptions above that were hammered into me as part of my airframe fitter Trade training with the RAAF. Typically the golden rules are ;
- Unless a torque wrench is calibrated, it ISN'T considered accurate
- Torque wrenches must be sized such that the torque aimed for is within the middle 50% of the wrench range. Accuracy drops off either side of that
- NEVER EVER undo a bolt with a torque wrench
- Dry and wet (lubed) torque values are different - typically more of an issue with larger bolts than thos used on bikes
- there is a correct technique to torqueing bolts properly - in stages and smooth movement. Testing a torque once a bolt is done up is not the actual torque, as it includes the stiction of the assembly
- No such thing as a good cheap torque wrench - not a major issue with bikes, but for high precision work (aircraft, race engines etc), it is

Given the above, for bikes, a 1/4" drive will do most jobs. For BB and cranks, you would use a 3/8" (depending on the unit itself).

Personally, I don't use one for BB's, cassettes and cranks, as my elbow is calibrated from many years of trade work.
And if it strips, I back off half a turn ....

[trailgumby]

- NEVER EVER undo a bolt with a torque wrench

Been hearing that a bit of late. What's the reasoning?

And if it strips, I back off half a turn ....

[MichaelB]

- NEVER EVER undo a bolt with a torque wrench

Been hearing that a bit of late. What's the reasoning?

Main thing is that is not what it is designed to do. Same as a screwdriver is not a chisel, knives are not screwdrivers, scissors are not hole punches, speedhumps are not launch ramps for hire cars etc

Depending on what you do (i.e. how tight the bolt/nut is), is how much it may affect it. Also rule #1 of tools - Look after them !

[P!N20]

But spirit levels as cricket bats is OK, right?

[trailgumby]

- NEVER EVER undo a bolt with a torque wrench

Been hearing that a bit of late. What's the reasoning?

Main thing is that is not what it is designed to do.

Do you mean, like, applying rotational force to an object? Sounds more like a philosophical position that an actual engineering reason like the other items you quote, which can be damaged or cause damage by those uses. The thought has never occurred to me not to do it, until recently. I thought the main really important thing you must not do with torque wrenches is to leave them stored with any tension on the dial. They must be wound back to zero before putting them away.

Speed humps ... probably not meant for jumping your bike off either, but they just call to me

Am I a bad person?

[Gordonhooker]

- NEVER EVER undo a bolt with a torque wrench

Been hearing that a bit of late. What's the reasoning?

Main thing is that is not what it is designed to do. Same as a screwdriver is not a chisel, knives are not screwdrivers, scissors are not hole punches, speedhumps are not launch ramps for hire cars etc

Depending on what you do (i.e. how tight the bolt/nut is), is how much it may affect it. Also rule #1 of tools - Look after them !

-
When did you serve Michael? I was in the RAAF from March 1974 until the end of 1988, I served at Amberley, Williamtown, Support Command and DefAir Canberra.

[MichaelB]

-
When did you serve Michael? I was in the RAAF from March 1974 until the end of 1988, I served at Amberley, Williamtown, Support Command and DefAir Canberra.

From 85 - 96. Training at Wagga and the rest of time at 492 SQN on P3 Orions

[MichaelB]

Do you mean, like, applying rotational force to an object? Sounds more like a philosophical position that an actual engineering reason like the other items you quote, which can be damaged or cause damage by those uses. ….

Meh, up to you.

Same as redlining a cold engine etc.

You treat your tools your way, I’ll treat mine my way.

Cheers

[trailgumby]

Do you mean, like, applying rotational force to an object? Sounds more like a philosophical position that an actual engineering reason like the other items you quote, which can be damaged or cause damage by those uses. ….

Meh, up to you.

Same as redlining a cold engine etc.

You treat your tools your way, I’ll treat mine my way.

Cheers

Again, there's a good engineering facts behind not doing that, mostly around lubricant distribution and premature wear from parts tolerances not yet being at their operating temperature fit.

I'm not arguing with you, I'm just saying I'm yet to hear any *facts* that would explain why it's a bad idea.

Give me some facts, I'll happily change my opinion - holding onto an opinion when facts point the other way is stupid, reality doesn't care about my opinion.

[warthog1]

Again, there's a good engineering facts behind not doing that, mostly around lubricant distribution and premature wear from parts tolerances not yet being at their operating temperature fit.

I'm not arguing with you, I'm just saying I'm yet to hear any *facts* that would explain why it's a bad idea.

Give me some facts, I'll happily change my opinion - holding onto an opinion when facts point the other way is stupid, reality doesn't care about my opinion.

A Torque Wrench Should Never be Used to Loosen Fasteners

This one is the truth. You might argue that if a torque wrench can handle tightening bolts to 250 ft-lbs, it should be able to reliably handle loosening that same bolt. And this is true, but when it comes to loosening a fastener you don't always know what's going to be required to get it loose.

After several heat cycles and the accumulation of dirt and grime that can coat everything in a race car, a bolt can gall against the threads and require a lot more torque to remove than was required to originally install. Most of us don't watch the torque when loosening bolts, so it's quite possible to exceed the maximum torque loading of a wrench when breaking bolts loose. The wrench will still function in terms of tightening or loosening bolts, but by exceeding its maximum torque limit loosening that tight bolt may have thrown off the calibration.

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/ctrp- ... nch-myths/

[trailgumby]

Again, there's a good engineering facts behind not doing that, mostly around lubricant distribution and premature wear from parts tolerances not yet being at their operating temperature fit.

I'm not arguing with you, I'm just saying I'm yet to hear any *facts* that would explain why it's a bad idea.

Give me some facts, I'll happily change my opinion - holding onto an opinion when facts point the other way is stupid, reality doesn't care about my opinion.

Most of us don't watch the torque when loosening bolts, so it's quite possible to exceed the maximum torque loading of a wrench when breaking bolts loose. The wrench will still function in terms of tightening or loosening bolts, but by exceeding its maximum torque limit loosening that tight bolt may have thrown off the calibration.[/i]

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/ctrp- ... nch-myths/

That, my friends, is a fact.

Thanks, warty.

[ilovemybike]

I have the second Venzo one listed above - no issues at all. Seems very solid.

Thank you. Is there much benefit getting one with smaller increments? Does a 0.1 nm adjustment really make much a difference when we are counting by 1 nm... the torque for 1 nm really is very small. So I would think either round up or round down.

The different types of torque wrenches within the same brand is also mind boggling. There is another version with a lock for the same price - the lock seems unnecessary though
https://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/venz ... -F33-031ST

[ilovemybike]

- NEVER EVER undo a bolt with a torque wrench

Been hearing that a bit of late. What's the reasoning?

I heard that on one of the GCN videos too. I think he said it is better to undo with an allan key. The torque wrench will last longer i think as the force to undo is greater than that to tighten.

[Mr Purple]

I have the second Venzo one listed above - no issues at all. Seems very solid.

Thank you. Is there much benefit getting one with smaller increments? Does a 0.1 nm adjustment really make much a difference when we are counting by 1 nm... the torque for 1 nm really is very small. So I would think either round up or round down.

The different types of torque wrenches within the same brand is also mind boggling. There is another version with a lock for the same price - the lock seems unnecessary though
https://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/venz ... -F33-031ST

For me, no. Nearest Nm is fine, it's not as if the torque specs for most parts are specified to tenth of a Nm.

But then my requirement for a torque wrench is 'so I don't break stuff'.

[Andy01]

I have the second Venzo one listed above - no issues at all. Seems very solid.

Thank you. Is there much benefit getting one with smaller increments? Does a 0.1 nm adjustment really make much a difference when we are counting by 1 nm... the torque for 1 nm really is very small. So I would think either round up or round down.

The different types of torque wrenches within the same brand is also mind boggling. There is another version with a lock for the same price - the lock seems unnecessary though
https://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/venz ... -F33-031ST

I very much doubt it. To get 0.1Nm with a small torque wrench (let's say the length of the "lever" is, say, 20cm) a force of only 0.05kg (ie. 50g) is required, which is pretty insignificant, even for tiny delicate bolts.

Or, 1Nm with a 20cm long wrench is 5N which is approximately 0.5kg (1kg of force actually gives 1 x 9.81 (which is gravity) = 9.81N, so approximate gravity to 10 and 1kg = 10N of force). That is why the small allen keys (like 2 to 4mm) are so short - to limit the amount of force that can be applied.

I would be inclined to wait 6 weeks for Black Friday to see if there are any deals. Some time ago (I can't remember exactly when) I posted a deal here where the Giant set was selling for under $70.

[skyblot]

From Norbar (torque wrench manufacturer:
"Using torque wrenches for undoing So long as users operate with caution and do not exceed the maximum torque, most torque wrenches can be used for undoing. However, if the bolt will not free within the maximum torque of the wrench, another tool should be used instead."

https://www.norbar.com/News-Events/Blog ... %20instead.

[trailgumby]

From Norbar (torque wrench manufacturer:
"Using torque wrenches for undoing So long as users operate with caution and do not exceed the maximum torque, most torque wrenches can be used for undoing. However, if the bolt will not free within the maximum torque of the wrench, another tool should be used instead."

https://www.norbar.com/News-Events/Blog ... %20instead.

Since all the bolts on my bikes are done up using a torque wrench, and no thread is ungreased, I'm pretty sure I'm safe on this front with all my own bikes.

However, if I was working on other people's bikes where I don't have that confidence, a ratchet driven wrench would totally be in my toolbox. I will probably get one each of a 1/4" and 3/8" drive unit anyway, along with some Wera hex tips, in the near future. A 15mm fitting with a 3/8" square drive for pedals will also be on that list - my pedal wrench is now U/S.

[skyblot]

I'd say you would be safe too. I was just in the market for a 150 ft lb torque wrench, but it had to torque in the left direction. Very very few available other than the super expensive brands. The one I bought has a removable square drive so you turn the wrench over for left hand threads.

Re the 15mm pedal adapter (I've always known as a crowsfoot), take a pedal and crank with you. I found when shopping for a suitable pedal spanner that most open ended spanners are too thick to fit on the flats of an installed pedal. The one I bought was a "Force" brand from Trade Tools. I cut the ring end off so I could slide a pipe over for extra leverage to remove a particularly stuck pedal. Weld a socket onto the spanner haft to use a torque wrench. Friends with welders come in handy...

[ilovemybike]

I would be inclined to wait 6 weeks for Black Friday to see if there are any deals. Some time ago (I can't remember exactly when) I posted a deal here where the Giant set was selling for under $70.

Sounds like a plan, not urgently needing one. So will be on lookout up till Christmas. Thanks

[SirFaffer]

https://www.totaltools.com.au/123628-hr ... yOHWFaJ0s0

Well priced and most importantly can be recalibrated. Mine works great.

[ilovemybike]

https://www.totaltools.com.au/123628-hr ... yOHWFaJ0s0

Well priced and most importantly can be recalibrated. Mine works great.

I thought all torque wrenches are recalibratable are they not? How do you recalibrate it, do you need special equipment?

[find_bruce]

If you feel like nerding out on torque wrenches, Cool Tool Tuesday #10: Talking Torque wrenches

Following the advice from this article will cost more than $50

[Bunged Knee]

It might be good or useless info of how tight or loose was the nuts is?????

[ilovemybike]

I was told by a bike mechanic recently, if you use a multi tool, you can’t go past 14nm. Allan key will probably be more I guess if there is more leverage.

[Andy01]

I was told by a bike mechanic recently, if you use a multi tool, you can’t go past 14nm. Allan key will probably be more I guess if there is more leverage.

Not sure how he could make a statement like that. It would depend on the size and strength/quality of the multitool and the strength of the hand holding it.

As regards the allen key, it would depend on the size/length of it plus the strength of the hand. A standard 5mm allen key is about 60-70mm long, so to reach 14Nm, it would need 14 / 0.06 = 233N of force applied, which is 24kg of force applied, which is a lot for a small allen key I would think. Obviously harder for a 3mm, and much easier for a 8mm.

I have seen fitters at work do some impressive things with allen keys / spanners etc - there are some guys out there who don't know their own strength and can break almost anything.