sizing and new vs old geometry

[newierider]

hi guys, hope you are all happy and well.

i currently have a couple of road bikes, pretty sure they are size large, ones a 56 and one is a 58, the 58 is really the maximum size i would go for in a modern bike.

i am wanting to buy a bike from overseas, its a 80s/90s steel bike, i know the geometry has changed a fair bit, can anyone give any pointers as to how i work out the best size for me, do i generally buy a bigger frame size or smaller?

i am 6ft but more on the short legged side. long torso. arms like a t-rex.

current bikes - giant contend - L (2016), scott CR1 PRO (2013)
bikes i might buy from overseas - raleigh flyer (blue white model), raleigh banana

any info or guidance is much appreciated!

[AndrewCowley]

As a guess, you'd be between 56 and 58. Go for the smaller one if in doubt. You can always run a long stem (120mm) to cater for your long torso.

[newierider]

thanks matey. unfortunately the two bikes that ive found are out of that range! just my luck.

if anyone out there ahs any experience undertaking a full strip down to bare metal of an 80s/early 90s bike i would love to hear your thoughts, im about to start a most likely steep learning curve! id be keen to hear if i should avoid at all costs, for some reason, or go for it if its not too big a deal, im prepared to put the work in, its just the rust factors, im not sure whats really considered reasonable and bad to work with.. heres one of the bikes, the raleigh banana is a 53cm, the raleigh flyer is a 58.5

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/11524013581 ... nl%3Dmkcid

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284643748699 ... SwJv1h-FyG

[RonK]

You compare the stack and reach measurements to find a frame of similar fit to your current bikes.

[P!N20]

im not sure whats really considered reasonable and bad to work with..

I've seen some horrendously rusty frames brought back to life, so a bit of rust here and there shouldn't matter as long as you can't poke your finger through it - and even if you can, tubes can be replaced, although your pockets need to be deep if you go down that route.

Obviously before painting all the rust will be removed.

[rkelsen]

hi guys, hope you are all happy and well.

i currently have a couple of road bikes, pretty sure they are size large, ones a 56 and one is a 58, the 58 is really the maximum size i would go for in a modern bike.

i am wanting to buy a bike from overseas, its a 80s/90s steel bike, i know the geometry has changed a fair bit, can anyone give any pointers as to how i work out the best size for me, do i generally buy a bigger frame size or smaller?

i am 6ft but more on the short legged side. long torso. arms like a t-rex.

current bikes - giant contend - L (2016), scott CR1 PRO (2013)
bikes i might buy from overseas - raleigh flyer (blue white model), raleigh banana

any info or guidance is much appreciated!

Yeah, sizing changed a lot. But yeah as mentioned above, measure the stack and reach and you should be OK.

On a modern frame, I ride a 56cm. On vintage steel, it's 59 or 60cm.

Why are you buying from overseas? My own policy is to buy locally wherever I can. There are thousands of them for sale close by, have a look on Gumtree.

Of course, that changes if it's something with pedigree... but the two you're looking at aren't.

[newierider]

hi guys, all great info, perfect, thanks so much!

regardng the reason for these bikes, the flyer was the bike i had but i had a way smaller frame as i was 14 years old, the banana was the one i dreamed of but never got. im actually from the uk and im heading down in july hopefully, covid permitting! so im on the lookout and ready to buy, then i will bring it back to australia with me.

[newierider]

regarding it having 6 gears on the back.. is it at all possible to get a bike like this to 10 speed?

[P!N20]

regarding it having 6 gears on the back.. is it at all possible to get a bike like this to 10 speed?

Yeah it's possible. You'll need to space the dropouts to 130mm (they're probably 126 now) then install a 10 speed compatible rear wheel/hub with 10 speed shifters/brifters and away you go.

[RonK]

hi guys, all great info, perfect, thanks so much!

regardng the reason for these bikes, the flyer was the bike i had but i had a way smaller frame as i was 14 years old, the banana was the one i dreamed of but never got. im actually from the uk and im heading down in july hopefully, covid permitting! so im on the lookout and ready to buy, then i will bring it back to australia with me.

If you don't currently have bike that fits you as a baseline, then buying off the size chart is going to be a guess. Great if you guess right, pain if you guess wrong.

Best to find a bike shop with a fitting jig and get sized correctly before you start looking.

[Mr Purple]

Ron's right - you'll be better off getting some sort of fit.

I started off trying to size my new bike based on my old one. Turns out the old one was completely wrong for me - too short and nowhere near enough reach. But I didn't find that out until I got on a completely different geometry and was instantly more comfortable. I think your brain just accepts what you're currently using as 'correct'.

I'd like to pretend I got a bike fit that confirmed this but I just got the measurements wrong and it was simple dumb luck. I think I'll pay for a proper bike fit next time.

[newierider]

ive managed to work out if the sizes are right.. ive overlayed photoshop files of my bikes and those frames, and put the images to scale based on some measurements the seller gave me ad the bigger frame is perfect! im confident with what ive worked out.
great news about the option of getting the frame to take a 10 speed! im guessing its safe to widen it that small amount...

regarding the weight of these 80s standard steel frames (not 531).. whats the weight difference in an aluminium bike with the same compoenetry? 1-2 kilos extra .. ish?