Freewheel cassette stuck on tightly

[psycodiver1]

Hello,

In order to put in some new spokes I have to remove the cassette on my back wheel.
It is not the 'cassette' system but the freewheel system because the tool fitting doesn't rotate as the sprockets spin.
I got all the tools to remove my cassette and tried doing it today but failed.
I was instructed to get a chain whip but so far it seems it has no use because the cassette doesn't move in the other direction when I'm trying to get the lock ring off.

But in any case, the lock ring will not budge for some reason.
I suspect its on very tightly. (The bike is only about 4-5 years old.)
I've been searching for ways to remove it and found these two ideas on YouTube:

In this one the guy uses a giant bar for leverage. I'll think I'll have problems finding a bar like this and I suspect it only has a low chance of working.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVCOjZ4 ... TheBikeGuy

This idea is a bit better, putting the lock ring in a vice horizontally and then turning the wheel like a car's steering wheel to get the lock ring off.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W2geANv ... onkeyShred
This might be an option for me, my local bike store might have a vice and might do it for me but, I would like to keep this option for last.

Here's a couple of pics I have of the cassette stuck on: https://imgur.com/a/BTVY1pl
Any help or advice to help get it off?

[chriso_29er]

If the cassette is not moving while you're trying to wind the lock-ring, you're going the wrong way.
In other words tightening it.

The chain whip needs to be set up to counteract the ratcheting of the freehub. Then unwind the lock-ring against the chain whip.

[psycodiver1]

Strange because the guides I read say the freewheel comes off in the typical counter-clockwise direction.
Could be that I have a non-standard freewheel?
In any case, I will wait a few more days before trying the other direction in case of new information.

[chriso_29er]

What cassette is it?
I think Shimano usually have an arrow on what way to tighten and at what tightness.

And yes, looking at the setup from the drive side;
Freewheel will lock going clockwise.
Lock-ring is wound off anti-clockwise.
Freewheel will spin free if turned anti-clockwise (eg. back-pedaling). So needs to be held with the chain whip to undo the lock-ring.

[Duck!]

Freewheel clusters wind on realy tightly due to drive torque. Put the tool in a bench vice, splines up, place the wheel on it and use the wheel iself as your leverage to unscrew it from the cluster.

PS there is no lockring; you're removing the whole cluster in one unit.

[Thoglette]

What Duck said. I usually use a skewer to stop the tool skipping & rounding the splines. Keep the tyre on too!

PS make sure it's the right one. Even then cheap machining can make it impossible to get it off with the "correct" tool. Don't ask me how I know

[chriso_29er]

I just finally saw your photos!
Disregard everything said lol.

PS looks a lot older than 3 or 4 years old?

[piledhigher]

I just finally saw your photos!
Disregard everything said lol.

PS looks a lot older than 3 or 4 years old?

Cheapish bikes still get that stuff, my sons mtb is a decent quality 24" bike with a 7 speed freewheel. He is unlikely to break the axle like I did on my last freewheel. And it has disc brakes!

[bychosis]

I just finally saw your photos!
Disregard everything said lol.

PS looks a lot older than 3 or 4 years old?

Cheapish bikes still get that stuff, my sons mtb is a decent quality 24" bike with a 7 speed freewheel. He is unlikely to break the axle like I did on my last freewheel. And it has disc brakes!

It’s frustrating. My sons 24” bike also had a 7spd disc brake hub. It’s even more odd when the hub is the same spacing as the cassette option which makes it somewhat rare. I have no idea how much extra it would cost, but to be able to change gearing with cassette would be a big selling point IMO.

I ended up getting a new rim and lacing to an old cassette hub so it now has 9spd in the rear.

[psycodiver1]

OK so the advice is:
Put the lock ring removal tool in a vice and remove it like the person did in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W2geANv ... onkeyShred

Problem is: I do not have a vice.
Are there any work-arounds?
Also, so it's confirmed that the freewheel comes off in a counter-clockwise direction?

I've had a couple of thoughts to get it off with the current tools I have:
Leave tyres on for grip
Spray it with WD40 beforehand
(They might help.)

[Duck!]

Yes, anti-clockwise to unscrew.

Put freewheel tool (it's actually slightly different to a cassette lockring tool, flatter spline profile), use quick release skewer or axle nut as applicable, done up loosely to stop the tool slipping out - you need a bit of slack to allow the cluster to unwind from the hub. You will need an assistand to firmly hold the wheel for you. Use the longest spanner (the necessary 22 or 24mm will be a sizeable unit anyway, and slip a length of pipe over it as an extension to gain valuable leverage - you will need lots of it!

[psycodiver1]

I'll give it a go, if all this fails I'll buy a casette and a new rear wheel and just replace the whole thing.
I will make sure not to buy the freewheel type because they are near impossible to remove it seems.

[psycodiver1]

Yes, anti-clockwise to unscrew.

Put freewheel tool (it's actually slightly different to a cassette lockring tool, flatter spline profile), use quick release skewer or axle nut as applicable, done up loosely to stop the tool slipping out - you need a bit of slack to allow the cluster to unwind from the hub. You will need an assistand to firmly hold the wheel for you. Use the longest spanner (the necessary 22 or 24mm will be a sizeable unit anyway, and slip a length of pipe over it as an extension to gain valuable leverage - you will need lots of it!

Yes, it's different to a cassette lockring tool.
I don't have an assistant handy at the moment. But, I think I can keep the wheel steady
I have a long adjustable spanner, but no length of pipe handy.

[psycodiver1]

OK I tried and it didn't come off.
Time to shop around for a cassette and not a freewheel.
And everything else that I might need, like a new back wheel, axle and so forth.

[psycodiver1]

I'm currently shopping around for a 7 speed shimano cassette on eBay.
First thing I notice is that half the listings are calling them "Flywheels" problem is there's no such thing as a flywheel on an MTB.
2nd thing I noticed, they are all listed as 'cassettes' but are actually freewheels.

This one looks good: https://bike.shimano.com/en-AU/product/ ... G41-7.html
Problem is I don't know if it's the cassette type or the freewheel type. It looks visually similar to my current freewheel. Does anyone know?

Or can anyone recommend me a 7 speed (cogs) cassette. I would prefer Shimano.

Judging from the Australian Shimano website, they list them all under the category of "Cassette Sprockets"
They don't seem to mark a difference between the two types; freewheel or cassette.

I just contacted Shimano asking them to point out to me the cassettes (not freewheels) on their site, that should help.

[ironhanglider]

OK I tried and it didn't come off.
Time to shop around for a cassette and not a freewheel.
And everything else that I might need, like a new back wheel, axle and so forth.

Don't give up so easily, try using the corner of a brick wall to stop the wheel rolling whilst you put some weight on the spanner.

Cheers,

Cameron

[psycodiver1]

"Don't give up so easily, try using the corner of a brick wall to stop the wheel rolling whilst you put some weight on the spanner.

Cheers,

Cameron"

Done that, still it's stuck on tighter than nuns #*$$*.

[psycodiver1]

After trying all day and using superhuman force to remove this freewheel I'm now convinced that it's somehow fused to the wheel itself. I will not even waste my time trying to find someone who has a vice I can use or trying to use a big bar on it for leverage, it still wouldn't come off.

The lesson is; don't buy freewheels, as soon as they are new they will fuse to the wheel. Then if you need to replace a spoke like me, you'll have to replace the whole bike.

[psycodiver1]

Interestingly, when I try and unscrew the freewheel, it doesn't turn the cogs of the gears.
That's why a chain whip is normally used, to hold the cogs when you try and remove the freewheel.
But on mine, trying to unscrew the freewheel does not turn the cogs.
(Sorry if that's unclear.) I suspect my freewheel is some variation.

[Duck!]

It's a completely normal freewheel. The core of it screws onto the hub. You're aiming to unscrew that core. It's unlikely to be fused on; as I said in my first comment, drive torque tends to really crank it on, which is why you need a lot of leverage to undo it.

[psycodiver1]

I've tried everything to remove it, it's time to move on I think...

Shimano replied to my inquiry pretty fast, they might actually be a responsible company.
I asked them for a list of all the 7 speed cassettes they sell and they gave me this:

CS-HG200 CASSETTE 12-28 7-SPEED ALTUS
CS-HG200 CASSETTE 12-32 7-SPEED ALTUS
CS-HG41 CASSETTE 11-28 7-SPEED ACERA

From looking at them it appears the first two are the same.
I probably will get the CS-HG41, it's pretty cheap on eBay only $31 from an Aussie seller.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Shimano-Ace ... ctupt=true

It says on the description: 11-28t (not too sure what that means?)
Next thing for me to do is to buy 2 lock ring removal tools for it (one spare.)
And a rear wheel that will fit it.

[David Collier]

Hi,
I need to replace my Shimano MF-TZ20 6-speed freewheel (on a KIA 'Soul 7' alloy folding bike now with a hub motor) with a closer ratio/higher geared one. I see some on epay.
Question: do all freewheels have the same thread so will fit my wheel?
Thanks & Regards

[Duck!]

Yes, the thread is standard. However, there isn't a lot of choice available with 6-sp, and due to the cluster design your high gear will be the same, but a tighter range will mean your low gears aren't as low.

[caneye]

bring it down to the LBS. they might be able to help for a few bucks.

I had a 10sp mtb cassette that was stuck (factory installed shimano cassette). couldn't remove it with my spindly arms. also snapped the chain whip doing it. finally threw in the towel and brought it to 99Bikes.
they had a go and almost gave up, but in the final attempt, it came loose.

[David Collier]

Thanks Duck for info on freewheel thread size. I see a freewheel on epay with one less tooth on top gear and fewer teeth overall which is all I need. Have a large chainwheel which means the chain presently fouls the frame on lowest gears. Without the motor it had a 7-speed freewheel; with it only room for a 6 speed. This is a well made all-alloy bike: didn't know KIA made such bikes before noticing it at local recycling centre.