School me on Di2. Please :-)

[MichaelB]

How'd you go with the brakes? I've seen numerous reports of MTB callipers working incredibly well on road levers. If you want to go down that worm hole

The R8070 brake calipers are included, but I'm not keen on using them.

I already use Zee calipers on my current roadie (R685 levers). And yes, they do work well, and have M7120 calipers with R7020 levers on the GT.

The drama re brake selection is the flatmount standard. All calipers, except Hope RX4, are the same as the road calipers and use the same pads, and they are TINY !!! Even the new Shimano 2 pot MTB calipers are the same as the road ones.

The downside with Hope RX4 are they are expensive. The other option is to use M7120 4 potters with flat>post adapters. The rear adapter mount is OK, but the front flat>post is a big ugly thing.

In the end, the price difference is $100 - $120 installed (between RX4 and M7120), but the Hope come in a nice anodised Orange which is close to matching the frame colour. Also come in Silver, Black, Red or Purple.

Reckon I know which way I'll go....

[Duck!]

Double check the fluid spec before committing to the Hope; they've traditionally used DOT fluid.

[MichaelB]

Double check the fluid spec before committing to the Hope; they've traditionally used DOT fluid.

They have Shimano (Mineral Oil) and SRAM (DOT) versions

Actually, aside from the different oil versions, the Shimano & SRAM have different piston sizes, and unlike Shimano, repair/rebuild parts are available

[g-boaf]

Double check the fluid spec before committing to the Hope; they've traditionally used DOT fluid.

They have Shimano (Mineral Oil) and SRAM (DOT) versions

Actually, aside from the different oil versions, the Shimano & SRAM have different piston sizes, and unlike Shimano, repair/rebuild parts are available

There is a Magura one too (Royal Blood). I have to use that on my TT bike.

[JohnAng]

My propel has red etap 11 speed and my new tcr advanced has di2

I love the simplicity of etap, right shifter up a gear left shifter down a gear both together front
Also if wearing thicker gloves, no issues with pushing the wrong lever.
That it also came with the blip shifters was a bonus as I use them on the tops for climbing

Now i have only had the di2 for a few weeks, and have set up the shifters to work the same way as the etap as i just love it...and have it for synchro shifting so dont have to worry about the front.
Though i would have lived to get the sprint shifters for it, but am told cant fit them on the disk version..is this still the case???

I do t like the climbing shifter, looks too clumsy

[MichaelB]

Hmmm, that’s something I’ll have a go with (sram shifter methodology). Ta

[robbo mcs]

Hmmm, that’s something I’ll have a go with (sram shifter methodology). Ta

I have mine set up that way. Right hand rear lever shifts chain to the right, ie bigger gear, left to the left. Use syncroshift so I don’t have to change the front. However, have the front shifters set up the same way for the front derailleur, ie right shifts the chain to the big cog for bigger gear, in case I want to manually change the front.

Intuitively, just seems to make sense to me. That is one of the good things about Di2, you can set it up anyway you see fit.

BTW, if you want to try syncroshift, that is customisable as well. You can set both the upwards and downwards front derailleur change point, and set the rear to change as many cogs as you wish at the same time. What I love is you can overide it, and do a manual front shift anytime you wish as well

[MichaelB]

Sure seems like lots of cool tweaks/options with Di2 to try when it finally gets built up.

Only 4-ish months and counting ..... and only a week in so far

Must stop browsing FB looking for bargains .....

Resisting a good price on a 2inpower Rotor crankset .....

Anyone want to buy a R8000, 172.5mm 50/34 set of cranks ...

[mikgit]

I don't lik the way that Sram has the shifting, so I wouldnt do that, but one of the first things I did with Di2 was set up the front shifter the opposire way around so the front shifts the same way as the rear, small button to easier gear, made more sense to me, even though i'd nevr had an issue with the mechanical setup.

[g-boaf]

My propel has red etap 11 speed and my new tcr advanced has di2

I love the simplicity of etap, right shifter up a gear left shifter down a gear both together front
Also if wearing thicker gloves, no issues with pushing the wrong lever.
That it also came with the blip shifters was a bonus as I use them on the tops for climbing

Now i have only had the di2 for a few weeks, and have set up the shifters to work the same way as the etap as i just love it...and have it for synchro shifting so dont have to worry about the front.
Though i would have lived to get the sprint shifters for it, but am told cant fit them on the disk version..is this still the case???

I do t like the climbing shifter, looks too clumsy

Yes, it's quite a simple arrangement. I use Dura Ace (mechanical) as well. Occasionally the differing operation will have me shifting the wrong way.

[JohnAng]

My propel has red etap 11 speed and my new tcr advanced has di2

I love the simplicity of etap, right shifter up a gear left shifter down a gear both together front
Also if wearing thicker gloves, no issues with pushing the wrong lever.
That it also came with the blip shifters was a bonus as I use them on the tops for climbing

Now i have only had the di2 for a few weeks, and have set up the shifters to work the same way as the etap as i just love it...and have it for synchro shifting so dont have to worry about the front.
Though i would have lived to get the sprint shifters for it, but am told cant fit them on the disk version..is this still the case???

I do t like the climbing shifter, looks too clumsy

Yes, it's quite a simple arrangement. I use Dura Ace (mechanical) as well. Occasionally the differing operation will have me shifting the wrong way.

haha, i get that to when i get on my mechanical shifting bike...plenty of oops moments

[Duck!]

Though i would have lived to get the sprint shifters for it, but am told cant fit them on the disc version..is this still the case???

No. The satellite shifter in the Dura-Ace series is a climbing or sprint shifter; it's a the same single-button design as the "normal" sprint shifter, just with a longer cable to allow more versatile mounting. For whatever unexplained reason, it doesn't have the groovy plug of the "proper" sprinter, so doesn't need the special matching port (which it is true isn't found on the hyrdo levers).

[Duck!]

Another thing up Di2's sleeve is that the sneaky buttons in the shifter peaks can also be set up as shift buttons if you don't need/want them to drive a compatible computer.

[JohnAng]

Another thing up Di2's sleeve is that the sneaky buttons in the shifter peaks can also be set up as shift buttons if you don't need/want them to drive a compatible computer.

yep, have done that, as i didnt need them to change screens on my garmin. Great little option that one.

[JohnAng]

Though i would have lived to get the sprint shifters for it, but am told cant fit them on the disc version..is this still the case???

No. The satellite shifter in the Dura-Ace series is a climbing or sprint shifter; it's a the same single-button design as the "normal" sprint shifter, just with a longer cable to allow more versatile mounting. For whatever unexplained reason, it doesn't have the groovy plug of the "proper" sprinter, so doesn't need the special matching port (which it is true isn't found on the hyrdo levers).

oh thats great news then...so its the SW-R9150 and compatible with hydro levers...
Will have to order a set then, and some bar tape. Then i can also clean up the front end when i install them, as i really do hate the way the cables are run at the moment

[Duck!]

...so its the SW-R9150 and compatible with hydro levers...

That's them.

[MichaelB]

Another thing up Di2's sleeve is that the sneaky buttons in the shifter peaks can also be set up as shift buttons if you don't need/want them to drive a compatible computer.

I think the Wahoo Bolt is one of those ?

[ChunkyRider]

Hi all

New to the forum and also in dire need of schooling on on the do's and don'ts of Di2. I recently made the move from mechanical 105 to Ultegra Di2.

I can concur with the sentiments expressed earlier in this thread that Di2 offers reliability in terms of eliminating cable stretch, and convenience in terms of easier activation of the shifting mechanism, particularly for us older folk, via electrically actuated and programmable buttons. Plus there's that ear-catching electronic buzz sound that I find quite satisfying and which instils jealously in my mechanical groupset riding buddies . Apart from this, Di2 vs. a well-tuned mechanical groupset are very much at par.

My question, however, is in regards to the transport of a road bike when not having access to a proper bike rack for the car. Specifically, a Di2-based bike with disc brakes, and specifically laying the bike down in the back of an SUV or crossover style car (rear seats folded flat).

The rule I have always followed is never lean the bike down on the drive side. Does this rule apply to a disc braked bike as well... because, as one quickly realises, leaning the bike on the non-drive side also means leaning the bike onto the disc brakes. Which is worse?

Secondly, and this is the part that is Di2-specific: In laying the bike down on the non-drive drive side during transport, the left-side shifter buttons end up getting pushed, which actuates the front derailleur. If the drive home is 30 mins, that's 30 mins of the front derailleur constantly being actuated.

Apart from getting a bike rack, how can I avoid the above situation? I was thinking that if I am in full-syncro mode, then technically I'll never be using the left-side shifter, in which case is there a way to permanently or temporarily turn off the left-side shifter buttons?

Hope my question is clear.

[Mr Purple]

I routinely lie my disc brake bike down on the non-drive side when transporting. You can't exactly lie it down on the drive side unless you want to trash your car with the chain. I do, however, also take off the front wheel and put in a plastic disc brake spacer at the same time.

No issues with the brakes at all, they're just not in a position to really hit something there anyway. Don't know about the Di2 but would imagine you could simply enough move the shifter into such a position that it wouldn't be activated.

I'm going through the 'learning Di2' thing currently too after too many shifter cables breaking!

[RonK]

The shift buttons are well-protected behind the brake lever - at least on my GRX shifters anyway. Seems unlikely the derailleurs could accidentally be actuated.
I can't see any issue with the brakes laying it on the non-drive side. I certainly wouldn't lay it on the derailleur side. A sudden bump could put them into recovery mode.

[robbo mcs]

I transport mine on the side all the time, never had any issues with brakes.

I did have a mysterious episode where a battery went flat in transit, I think it could have been what you describe. Now I just make sure the handlebars are slightly tilted or away from anything.

I don't think it would happen if the shifter was depressed and stayed depressed, nothing much seems to happen. I think it would have to be moving and repeatedly being depressed, and would take a very large number of actuations. However, front shifts do use a lot more battery than rear, and most people have the bike setup eith front shifters in the non-drive side.

[Duck!]

No issue for the brakes with the bike laid on the non-drive side, the rotor is largely protected by the frame. Just make sure there's nothing stowed under the rear of the bike which the rotor might bounce on in transit.

Di2 has a power-saving mode that it automatically settles into after a certain time in order to extend charge life; it wakes up if a shift button or the function button on the control box is pressed. Having a shift button held down for an extended time stops the system going to sleep, so can drain the battery, but won't cause any other damage unless it's shifted the front derailleur, which can bend the chain, derailleur and chainrings, either singly or any combination of those bits.

[lone rider]

Hi all

New to the forum and also in dire need of schooling on on the do's and don'ts of Di2. I recently made the move from mechanical 105 to Ultegra Di2.

I can concur with the sentiments expressed earlier in this thread that Di2 offers reliability in terms of eliminating cable stretch, and convenience in terms of easier activation of the shifting mechanism, particularly for us older folk, via electrically actuated and programmable buttons. Plus there's that ear-catching electronic buzz sound that I find quite satisfying and which instils jealously in my mechanical groupset riding buddies . Apart from this, Di2 vs. a well-tuned mechanical groupset are very much at par.

My question, however, is in regards to the transport of a road bike when not having access to a proper bike rack for the car. Specifically, a Di2-based bike with disc brakes, and specifically laying the bike down in the back of an SUV or crossover style car (rear seats folded flat).

The rule I have always followed is never lean the bike down on the drive side. Does this rule apply to a disc braked bike as well... because, as one quickly realises, leaning the bike on the non-drive side also means leaning the bike onto the disc brakes. Which is worse?

Secondly, and this is the part that is Di2-specific: In laying the bike down on the non-drive drive side during transport, the left-side shifter buttons end up getting pushed, which actuates the front derailleur. If the drive home is 30 mins, that's 30 mins of the front derailleur constantly being actuated.

Apart from getting a bike rack, how can I avoid the above situation? I was thinking that if I am in full-syncro mode, then technically I'll never be using the left-side shifter, in which case is there a way to permanently or temporarily turn off the left-side shifter buttons?

Hope my question is clear.

Put it upside down on the back seat (wheels off of course) and use a seat belt to secure it and turn the handlebars 45 degrees so there is no way the buttons could be pushed in if it moves.

[g-boaf]

You can also do what I do when going overseas with bikes - cut PVC plumbing pipe and fix it over the top of the handlebars and shifters. You need to cut it to fit. Put rollbar foam inside the PVC pipe, it will protect your bars from impacts and also stop things pressing the shifter buttons.

[MichaelB]

OK, time for some collective wisdom from the established Di2 users.

Have recently swapped the wheelset on the Llewellyn (went from 52mm Deep Tokens to 35mm Hunt Carbon).

All went well and bike rides fine. Had to adjust the calipers to align with the rotors, but other than that, all good.

However, on the last ride I noticed that the RD didn't go to the 11T cog (in the big ring at front) where it did previously. Changes gear fine, and everything else seems sweet, so is it a matter of doing the adjustment per the manual again to make sure it's aligned properly, or is it maybe just a tweak to the RD positioning ?

Cheers