Replace all components on current frame - or buy a new touring bicycle?

[hunch]

Last week two bicycle shops in a regional city told me that many components are worn.
This is also what my LBS said a month ago, and showed me waggle in the brifters and RD.
I bought the bicycle 2nd-hand, as-new, and have done less than 5000km in 6 years.

The question is why are the components worn out after 5000km or so. Does not matter if you replace components or buy new, in 5000km you will need to do it again, unless you take action.

How often do you clean/re-lube your chain?
When did you last replace your chain?

A worn chain, will quickly destroy a cassette, chain rings, rear derailleur pulley wheels etc. Brifters on the other hand, I have put 30,000km into second hand set that had a hard racing life and still as good as new.

Short of lots of crosschaining and no lube - or it being submerged in the Hawkesbury and washed down the river multiple times over the last 3 years, does sound like an upsell........and that waggle in the RD, hmmm. Had a bike shop about 25 years ago say I should replace a year old bike rather than put a new chain and cassette on it.....needless to say, I didn't follow that advice and still worked fine when the frame finally broke years later.

Maximum I've every carried is probably around 30kg. A triple would be my preference when laden, very handy for those times when you inevitably get caught out on a hill and the legs are tired. There always seems to be a touring bike or two on FB, saw a Vivente and a Trek 520 around that size in the not too distant past - and think the asks were only a few hundred.

[Wollemi]

No, I'd suggest it's not worth it.

And rather than a triple I recommend investigating a gravel bike with hydraulic brakes and 46/30 chainring.

Your fear of the 11 speed chain being weaker is definitely unfounded - it will make next to no difference. However to be honest a 10 speed will probably fit your case better anyway - Shimano GRX400 is excellent.

A Merida Silex 400 for example with an aluminium frameset will set you back somewhere in the area of $1800-1900 and you get hydraulic brakes and new everything else.

https://www.thebicyclecompany.com.au/me ... blue-black

Comes with an 11-34 cassette which is probably fine, but whack an 11-40 on there and you've got a low gear where you'll happily do 8km/hr. Honestly a triple just isn't worth it with today's rear cassette options and a gravel 2x.

I fitted an 11-46 some time back - Bolany-brand. I could not climb roads, with camping gear fitted through Kosciuszko NP (Elliott Way up out of the Tumut River, or the 150m gain over 4km from Thredbo's Friday Flat to Dead Horse Gap),
using Compact 34-50 + 9spd 11-46.

And three different bicycle mechanics (one a teacher of bicycle buiding and servicing) were not happy with the slack in the chain, causing lag in the shifting.
I did ride this set-up for 2 years until recently, though, until the three lowest gears of the cassette were worn.

Now on the original 34-50 again. It's fine for overnight rides Richmond - Bondi Beach and return with a backpack, but not for heavy touring if I fit pannier racks to camp out.

[Wollemi]

Now, whether a CX frame is what you want is a whole ‘nother question, to use an Americanism.

Typically CX frames have quickish geometry with no room for mudguards and luggage.

Only bicycle I have is a 2015(?) Trek Crossrip.
Photo taken Apil 2024 on the High Country Rail Trail in Victoria, with camping gear on a Topeak rear rack, thanks.
My size US8 / 43 shoes do not strike the large panniers.

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10 ... .680679306

[Wollemi]

Also, the buy new option may be cheaper whatever you do if you can find what you want, especially if you can get a well maintained second hand deal as parts are horribly expensive at the moment, let alone the labour cost if you are not doing it yourself.

Having walked and scootered from the Natural Bridge deep in Wollemi NP for 1.5 days after a stick ate my RD, and for 1.5 days after the pawls within the freewheel of an MTB failed at the Pinch River in Kosciuszko NP, I am considering a belt drive - yes, a new touring bicycle for me... But I don't want to be a PITA for motorists when commuting from Richmond to Penrith for 22km along Castlereagh Rd.

Although a belt-drive won't save a stick in the spokes, it was similar to the two occasions I have smashed an RD.
Photo from March 2024 on overgrown Mount Irvine Road.
FWIW, this is my Trek CX, and I am on 25mm tyres. Cycled 23 km of BLoR back to cars at Bilpin.
(Then fitted 38mm rear tyre for Victorian rail trails last week.)

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10 ... 6865909307

[Wollemi]

Here in Albury, we only have 2 bike dealers now
I'd love to have a ride of a Pinion geared bike, they are quite popular in the higher end bikes in both Europe and the US, Yes, there's a weight gain but there's also a gain in low to no maintenance. I enjoy to see what's trending.

I was surprised by the massive floor space of Cycle Station. And 75% of bicycles were adult MTBs at $700 or so.
I was delighted by how close this shop is to Albury rail station - more cycle touring ideas from Bathurst and Moss Vale came to mind, then easily box the bike and train back to Sydney.

But then one may have to take front rack off to get it in the box and stay within the rules for any NSW regional train
- When packing the bicycle, ensure that no part of it protrudes.
- Boxes must not be torn or damaged to ensure the safe transportation of the bicycle.
- Maximum dimensions when packed: 135cm long x 80cm high x 24cm wide.
- A supplementary charge of $12.10 applies for push bicycles.

Desired front rack
- https://www.epiccycles.com.au/surly-26- ... -rack.html

- have had a loan of one previously, and did fit it to the carbon front forks of my Trek CX Crossrip elite.
- Never used it for camping, though.
- Forks only have one eyelet at mid-length either side, and do not have an upper eyelet. Aluminium 3cm spacers were used.

[find_bruce]

Belt drive is likely to need a new frame - elevated chain stays were pretty niche. You also need to factor in the price of a Rohloff - while an Shimano alfine is cheaper, I abandoned my 8 speed due to reliability issues. IIRC correctly the Alfine also has issues about how low your primary gear can be - maybe 39t on the front & 23t sprocket, with a 0.527 1st gear ratio

[Wollemi]

Short of lots of crosschaining and no lube - or it being submerged in the Hawkesbury and washed down the river multiple times over the last 3 years, does sound like an upsell........and that waggle in the RD, hmmm.

I briefly boil the chain in wax every 400km or so - and use lube if it seems necessary.

An Albury, NSW bicycle store, and my LBS in outer Sydney both commented on the waggle at the various pivot points in the RD - without me asking an opinion on it, although both bicycle stores were tuning the RD at the time.
Factory-fitted, 9 spd Sora.