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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Posted: Tue Jan 21, 2025 3:40 pm
by MichaelB
Mr Purple wrote:
Tue Jan 21, 2025 2:53 pm
I saw a 12 speed hydraulic Ultegra Di2 set secondhand for $1200 last week. Mind you I saw one for $4000 as well the week before.

Even after my brief Di2 experience with one broken shifter already I'm never getting a new mechanical groupset again. Unfortunately gravel bikes with Di2 groupsets are all ridiculously expensive!
That would have gone QUICK !!! Unless there was something wrong with it.

All I need for my other bike is FD ($280 ish), Battery ($250), 910 JB ($140) and Levers (merlin has the levers & calipers for $905 + shipping). May need the odd wire.

The levers are the hard part !! Expensive and LOW stock.

Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Posted: Tue Jan 21, 2025 5:42 pm
by Mr Purple
Merlin when I checked were about the cheapest, though CCache also had good prices.

No-one seems to do a base modulus carbon gravel frameset with a GRX Di2 groupset so I suspect my next gravel bike will be a custom build.

I'm not paying $8-10k for a gravel bike that I'm only going to slowly trash. Well, I'll probably pay $8-10k for a gravel bike but in parts, so I won't realise how much I'm spending on it.

Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Posted: Tue Jan 21, 2025 6:48 pm
by jasonc
https://www.canyon.com/en-au/gravel-bik ... e=R120_P01

$8k pretty sure mine was cheaper than that

Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Posted: Wed Jan 22, 2025 8:24 am
by MichaelB
jasonc wrote:
Tue Jan 21, 2025 6:48 pm
https://www.canyon.com/en-au/gravel-bik ... e=R120_P01

$8k pretty sure mine was cheaper than that
https://www.canyon.com/en-au/gravel-bik ... e=R119_P01

This'd be the one that'd do for me, but still outta my budget, hence the F&F I'm looking at now.

Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2025 3:32 pm
by redsonic
I've spent the last several weeks trouble-shooting an annoying soft squeak. Seemed to be related to pedal stroke.
For some background, I was taken out by a car 18 months ago, and also had Shimano's crank inspection, so I have relatively new shoes, saddle, crank and bottom bracket on the bike.
First, I checked the bottom bracket and crank arm torque, also the chainring bolts. Nada, squeak was still there.
Then, tightened up and lubed my cleats. Still squeaking.
Then, checked torque on my saddle clamp and ran some lube between the rails and the leather of the saddle. Still squeaking.
Was sure I'd found the problem when I realised my saddle-mounted tail light could be made to squeak when wiggled. Nope, wasn't that.
Opened, re-positioned and tightened front and rear QRs. Still squeaking.
Tried a different pair of shoes - SQUEAK GONE!!!!
A bit of talcum powder around the tongue of the new shoes - blessed silence. Such a champion bike mechanic I am :oops:

Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Posted: Sat Feb 01, 2025 1:18 pm
by jasonc
Proved something to myself this morning - an rd-rd815 grx di2 2x rear derailleur will work with an r8050 front derailleur

Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Posted: Sun Feb 02, 2025 1:51 pm
by Duck!
^^ I could have told you that; road & grovel Di2 bits are essentially the same, it's the MTB derailleurs that don't play with others.

Doing some work on my boss's wife's bike, converting from 2x10 to 1x11-sp. Had a fair bit of trouble with one chainring bolt seized and the notches in the back nut ramping out, making it difficult to get a grip to break the bind. The bolt assembly could spin reasonably easily in the ring/spider, so it wasn't extraordinarily tight, so I hit upon the offbeat idea of trying to tighten the bolt to break the threadlock, then undo it. It worked! :D

Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Posted: Sun Feb 02, 2025 2:29 pm
by jasonc
Duck - the shimano compatibility manual says it would work. Just wanted to check myself before I told a workmate what he needed to buy for his grx di2 upgrade

Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Posted: Sun Feb 02, 2025 10:21 pm
by DavidS
Duck! wrote:
Sun Feb 02, 2025 1:51 pm
^^ I could have told you that; road & grovel Di2 bits are essentially the same, it's the MTB derailleurs that don't play with others.

Doing some work on my boss's wife's bike, converting from 2x10 to 1x11-sp. Had a fair bit of trouble with one chainring bolt seized and the notches in the back nut ramping out, making it difficult to get a grip to break the bind. The bolt assembly could spin reasonably easily in the ring/spider, so it wasn't extraordinarily tight, so I hit upon the offbeat idea of trying to tighten the bolt to break the threadlock, then undo it. It worked! :D
Yeah, not that offbeat an idea. I remember being told to try and tighten the bolt to shift the thread by car mechanics many years ago. It doesn't seem to be logical but it does work.

DS