Australian Cycling Forums - Bicycles Network Australia

Not that high then.

Putting some lube on the cargo bike chain, found the lockring for the chain ring was loose, only finger tight instead of the 35nm spec... Ordered a Bosch lockring tool and crank puller. When you can buy the tools for only a bit more than taking it to a shop, i might as well get the tool, which is how I justify most of my tool purchases.

Also ordered Park Tool Tw2.2 0-60nm torque wrench (because I never had one that will do that range, and the lockring is left hand thread).

blizzard wrote: ↑

Sun Aug 11, 2024 10:36 pm

Putting some lube on the cargo bike chain, found the lockring for the chain ring was loose, only finger tight instead of the 35nm spec... Ordered a Bosch lockring tool and crank puller. When you can buy the tools for only a bit more than taking it to a shop, i might as well get the tool, which is how I justify most of my tool purchases.

Also ordered Park Tool Tw2.2 0-60nm torque wrench (because I never had one that will do that range, and the lockring is left hand thread).

35Nm sounds like the cassette and if so its not left hand thread. In any case an easy job.

No the Bosch motor lockring is left hand threaded, to tighten it you need a special tool (similar to some square taper BB), to fit the tool you need to remove the cranks which will require a crank puller. Definitely not a hard job by any means.

50/50 I take it to my local shop they will do it for free on the spot. The tools were $45 shipped (excluding the torque wrench but I was eyeing that up for a while) so much prefer to have the tools.

blizzard wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 12, 2024 9:23 am

No the Bosch motor lockring is left hand threaded,

Ah a motor didn't even cross my mind, sounds like an easy job regardless.

Tools arrived, truly a 5 minute job to remove the RH crank arm, tighten the lockring and reinstall. I actually spent more time trying to extract an 8mm bit driver from its packaging than doing the job.

Whilst I had the torque wrench out I checked the left arm bolt and it's was only tightened to about 30nm when the spec is 40-60nm.

How hard can it be to replace a chain ?

Well quite hard if you are using a new Shimano chain with one of those new-fangled links to join the chain ends.

As many of us would know, Shimano has evolved - they now supply a 2-piece link with most of their new chains, instead of the rivet thingo that requires a chain breaker tool to install

Here is a neat little video about this system :



Well I watched the video and then set to work.
No dramas, required a fair bit of strength and dexterity but went in with a satisfying click.

A few days later the other bike needed a new chain too.
So I thought I would now be an “expert” and went to work on my second chain replacement with the “new” system

But this time it was a lot harder !
After a few minutes of my struggling, swearing and so forth it reluctantly seated according to its instructions.

Then I noticed that I hadn’t put the chain through the front derailleur cage. !!! Arghh

There was no way that I was gonna undo this little buzzard.
I undid the front derailleur, undid the little screw that holds the cage together, prised it apart, put the chain inside the cage and breathed a sigh of relief !

Elantra - INVEST in a set of these
https://www.pushys.com.au/park-tool-mas ... liers.html
I may have a different pair that undoes the link but no good to do it up that I could offer you cheaply

jasonc wrote: ↑

Thu Aug 29, 2024 6:25 pm

Elantra - INVEST in a set of these
https://www.pushys.com.au/park-tool-mas ... liers.html
I may have a different pair that undoes the link but no good to do it up that I could offer you cheaply

I have those pliers and use them to attach and lock the link too. Just pull the handles away from each other.

Edit, sorry watched the video. That aint gonna work. Have never seen a quick link like that before.
I use these;

Jason, the link in the video is quite different to the quicklinks that you and I are familiar with.
Those pliers won't work on the link Elantra is having trouble with.
The video link has the 2 pins fixed to one side plate. The links we use have one pin fixed to each side plate and can be either pinched together to open or pushed apart to close.
They are completely different links.

Warthog beat me to it with his edit.

ps. Don't need pliers to do our links up. Just connect it loosely and stomp on the pedal. The link snaps shut. Connect the chain just behind the chainring on the top run of the chain before the gentle stomp. Works every time.

Joining pins and a chain breaker look better than that thing!

Agree with warthog1. Dump them and get normal links
And my apologies

I join my chains at the bottom. Put the link on and snap it with the pliers. Quick and easy. Rotating it and standing on the pedal works too.

You can also get travel quick links that require no tools

^^^ thanks guys. Yes in recent years I have mainly used Quick Links, such as the ones made by YBN, KMC, SRAM, and Wipperman.

They are very easy to use, especially if you use chain link pliers. Which are not expensive- compared to most other specialty tools !

I guess that a potential problem with these (Non-Shimano) Quick Links is if you keep on re-using them - it’s hard to know if they are “worn out” or not !

Memo to self - buy some fresh Quick Links !

The risk of worn quick links springing open seems fairly low, but just change them after a few uses to be safe (6-10 normally).

Seems almost all quick links failures are due to incorrect installation.

I did manage to have a quick link come apart many years ago, no idea why it happened but it can happen.

New bike has Campy so no quick links . . . until, I use my 2 spare chains, because after that I can use the new Campy chains with quick links - they came in with the new electronic Super Record, but they do fit my mechanical Record 12 speed (I emailed and asked).

DS

I have a recollection of using the 'new' style Shimano links some years ago, can't remember the brand, but do recall using link pliers made it easier to bend in the pins to allow fitting (or removal) of the outer plate.

I damn well hate changing pads on disc brake bikes and all the damn maintenance on them.

g-boaf wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 30, 2024 9:04 pm

I damn well hate changing pads on disc brake bikes and all the damn maintenance on them.

Take the wheel off
Remove the old pads
Push pistons back
Install new pads
Reinstall wheel
Bed in pads

jasonc wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 30, 2024 9:28 pm

g-boaf wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 30, 2024 9:04 pm

I damn well hate changing pads on disc brake bikes and all the damn maintenance on them.

Take the wheel off
Remove the old pads
Push pistons back
Install new pads
Reinstall wheel
Bed in pads

That's the simple version.

I spray down the piston with Isopropyl alcohol and give them a clean first before pushing them back in, so try and stop getting dirt pushed back through the seal.

If your pads wore unevenly there is a reasonable chance one side was lazy so then that needs extra cleaning and lubing the to free up, which can be a bit of a faff.

Also for Shimano it's possible to burst the bladder in the lever pushing the piston back in, so to be safe you can crack the bleed port on the lever. I've never done it and haven't had an issue, I think it's more a shop mechanic thing that incase the system has extra fluid in it because it was bled incorrectly previously.

blizzard wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 31, 2024 6:59 am

jasonc wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 30, 2024 9:28 pm

g-boaf wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 30, 2024 9:04 pm

I damn well hate changing pads on disc brake bikes and all the damn maintenance on them.

Take the wheel off
Remove the old pads
Push pistons back
Install new pads
Reinstall wheel
Bed in pads

That's the simple version.

<snip lots of good stuff>

Also, those simple words 'Remove the old pads' and 'Install new Pads'. Fiddling with the split pins or 'C' pins to remove/install the holding pin can be a right pain, especially if the holding pin has worn.
Admittedly, compared to what I've had to cope with in the motorcycle world this is simplicity itself, but not as easy or quick as undoing/re-installing two bolts and setting toe-in on modern rim brakes.

Price you pay for better hi-tech braking I suppose

However, I'm still using cable disks on my gravel bike and see no need to upgrade which cuts out step 2.

Richard

yes, i do clean the brake calipers and pistons before pushing the back, isopropyl alcohol works well

WyvernRH wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 31, 2024 8:17 am

blizzard wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 31, 2024 6:59 am

jasonc wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 30, 2024 9:28 pm

Take the wheel off
Remove the old pads
Push pistons back
Install new pads
Reinstall wheel
Bed in pads

That's the simple version.

<snip lots of good stuff>

Also, those simple words 'Remove the old pads' and 'Install new Pads'. Fiddling with the split pins or 'C' pins to remove/install the holding pin can be a right pain, especially if the holding pin has worn.

At least there's no need to re align with the rim track or try and adjust toe in.

They work predictably every time you squeeze the lever, regardless of weather or wheelset material. Do not wear the wheel either.
Wider wheels and tyres for better grip and better ride.
No interest in ever going back to rim brake.