I'm a champion bike mechanic...

[blizzard]

I've read people using Slickoleum with success instead of DT grease. When I first got me LB wheels with 240 EXP ratchets they were almost silent, when I serviced them using DT grease they became much louder, the existing grease was grey and did look a lot like Slickoleum.

[blizzard]

Different topic, but I imagine a lot of people under tighten their thru axles especially if they have integrated handles.



I used a torque wrench for the first time on the thru axles on my Tarmac, I normally just short 6mm Allen key and do it up almost as tight as I can. The spec is 15nm, using a 150mm torque wrench it got another quarter turn or so to get 14nm and was a fair bit of effort. I can't see how the the ~60mm integrated handles on some bikes can even get close to the correct torque.

[stevenaaus]

Sat in the sun, took the tyre and liner off and straightened out my wayward DuraAce C50.. Put it back on the bike and out for a decent ride

[stevenaaus]

Different topic, but I imagine a lot of people under tighten their thru axles especially if they have integrated handles

.

Quick release just works doesn't it. (well, mostly)
Thru axles are just another of the myriad problems disc brakes have brought about imho. Group ride discussion yesterday was about nasty thru axle failure.

Add them to hydraulic fluid leaks and (sram) fluid changes, squealing banshees in the rain, slow wheel wheel changes in racing, heavier bikes and wheels, and don't think about changing your stem if you're running internal routing, for dog's sakes. 🫨

[blizzard]

Without turning this into a rim vs disc debate, I've had both and prefer disc for most cases. It's just a slightly different skill set to work on and maintain. As mentioned the biggest issue with Thru Axles is under tightening (they're not designed to take sheer force), which is mainly due to people not understanding their bike. I've personally never had an issue with loose or creaking TAs because I did them up tight (even if they were a bit under spec).

[warthog1]

Through axle is better.
My S5 has CF dropouts. The wheelhub is partially supported by the hanger screws at the top, but not at the bottom, of the dropout. The bottom part has compessed leaving an indentation. When you close the quick release the entire derailleur moves inward toward the wheel due to the indentation below the hanger screws. The hanger needs a significant bend so it will still shift.

[jasonc]

don't think about changing your stem if you're running internal routing, for dog's sakes. 🫨

I have 3 disc bikes. NONE of them have routing through the headset. It was a requirement.

and agree with warthog re quick release. to do it up securely EVERYTHING moves.
ask cervolo owners what they think about quick release drop outs.

[Duck!]

Through-axles are not really dictated by disc brakes specifically, the proposed theory is more about making forks less twisty under high loads. The rest is driven by mucketing balderdash...! I have two disc-braked MTBs, both have normal Q/R rear axles, one has a Q/R fork/ axle, the other is through-axle. There is no discernible difference in handling or brake drag between the two bikes!!!

[CmdrBiggles]

I can't see much from my GIANT TCR's front and rear wheels, other than small black buttons with a 6mm hex orifice, along with a small (detachable/stowable) lever-cum-QR for undoing them, which has been demonstrated to me prior to delivery. I supplement this odd looking plastic/fibreglass composite tool with a stronger Daysaver8 hex key https://ccache.cc/products/daysaver-ess ... 71b3&_ss=r as insurance against failure. The LBS told me the 11nm marked is 'nominal' — "[...]just tight, but not brute-force tight!"

The Zaskar MTB recently sold had through-axle screw-down-and-tighten QRs; no problem ever with these, and very quick and easy to get the wheel in and out.

[robbo mcs]

Different topic, but I imagine a lot of people under tighten their thru axles especially if they have integrated handles.



I used a torque wrench for the first time on the thru axles on my Tarmac, I normally just short 6mm Allen key and do it up almost as tight as I can. The spec is 15nm, using a 150mm torque wrench it got another quarter turn or so to get 14nm and was a fair bit of effort. I can't see how the the ~60mm integrated handles on some bikes can even get close to the correct torque.

That seems like quite a high torque number to me. I had a look at all my TA bikes, and the torque marked on the TA's varies from 5.5 to 8nm on the front and 8 x 11.5nm on the rear. I guess it must vary with manufacturer and materials

[blizzard]

It depends on the axle size and materials. My road bike is 15Nm front and rear, the Robert Axle Project recommends only 12Nm on their replacement axle for the Tarmac. My Giant Carbon MTB is 9Nm on the Fox fork and 15Nm on the rear. My cargo bike is 8-10Nm on the Suntour fork and QR rear.

Duck I'm not surprised there is no difference in ride feel, TA and QR are functionally the same in that they are just there to provide clamping force on the hub axles.

[P!N20]

Through-axles are not really dictated by disc brakes specifically

My understanding is through axles were adopted where disc brakes were used to prevent QR skewers from ejecting out of the fork ends: https://diskbrakesqr.wordpress.com/

[Duck!]

That article is mostly bulldust.

[baabaa]

That article is mostly bulldust.

And the for peoples that may have thought they may have an issue with qr, and way before thru axles became yet another new standard, chris king, phil wood and hope ( must be others) offer fun bolt on options to change the quick release skewer to a bolt on set ups which you can snug down each side of the hub (as tight as you like....)

[Mr Purple]

I have more confidence with a thru axle than a QR simply because I own a torque wrench and know how to use it, so therefore know exactly what torque I've set it to as per manufacturer recommendations.

QR's always had me a bit worried because it was done by feel. I'm sure it's entirely adequate, but still that would worry me with disc brakes.

I even went to the extent of replacing my RAT (QR thru axle) setup on my Focus with Robert Axle Project thru-axles. So much better, and fixed all my disc rub issues.

[antigee]

at one time had a cotic roadrat (company was local to me back then) early models had the front disk brake caliper on the front of the fork - this was to save the cost of changing the front vertical drop out to a front facing dropout to combat the braking force - had a side benefit that made fitting mud guards easier

https://www.cotic.co.uk/geek/page/archive

"Our ROADHOG forks caused a bit of a stir when they were released to compliment our ROADRAT frame. Why? Well, as you can see from the photo, the disc mount is positioned on the front right of the fork rather than the more usual left rear. As always with Cotic products, there were firm engineering reasons for placing it where it is, and here's the lowdown:

Forces
Axle movement under disc braking is now a fairly well known phenomenon in mountain biking. Basically with the caliper positioned left rear (usual place), and a vertical dropout, there is a reaction of the braking force which tends to push the axle out of the dropout, hence you're relying on the friction of your QR to counteract this rather than a completely mechanical stop. Most manufacturers have moved to a slightly forward facing dropout to counteract this."

[jasonc]

This morning my lezeyne pump (threaded valve) wouldn't pump my rear tyre. Thankfully I have a clip on pump so used that. Cleared the valve off the pump out tonight. Tested again and now works

[blizzard]

so looking for dt swiss special grease
looks like this has the same specifications
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/nul ... =SCA010708

it's NLGI 2

This lithium base grease with added PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene) will coat surfaces to increase performance whilst minimising wear.

sounds the same as the dt swiss stuff

Got the Nulon grease, it's quite a bit more viscous and stickier than the DT Swiss grease.

It's even stickier than the Weldtite bike grease which is heavier than the DT Swiss stuff.

I would probably try Slickoleum or maybe ask a couple stores what they have for ratchet servicing, because they have to use something.

[antigee]

asked similar question a while back - someone suggested Slick Honey and I already had some and seemed to the job just fine

https://www.bicycles.net.au/forums/view ... e#p1602486

[warthog1]

so looking for dt swiss special grease
looks like this has the same specifications
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/nul ... =SCA010708

it's NLGI 2

This lithium base grease with added PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene) will coat surfaces to increase performance whilst minimising wear.

sounds the same as the dt swiss stuff

Got the Nulon grease, it's quite a bit more viscous and stickier than the DT Swiss grease.

It's even stickier than the Weldtite bike grease which is heavier than the DT Swiss stuff.

I would probably try Slickoleum or maybe ask a couple stores what they have for ratchet servicing, because they have to use something.

I use it for the front wheel bearings on my Patrol. It is quite sticky.

[P!N20]

Conducted major surgery on a mate's ST-6700 right shifter.

There's a spring inside the mechanism that has a habit of breaking or losing tension. In this unit the spring hadn't broken, but it was folded, so when I tried to bend it back it broke. I managed to cut the spring short and re-bend the end which solved the problem - after much swearing - I'm sure Swiss watches aren't as complicated.

I'm pleased to report the patient is recovering well. With thanks to Jules21 for help and guidance.

[Mr Purple]

I suspect I managed to misalign my RD after snapping the cable with 50km to go in the Brissie to Bay and finishing largely cross chained in 11th.

Have lost access to the 11 tooth on the rear and can’t seem to index the inner rings.

Any thoughts? Needs a service anyway which is booked, just may limit my climbing this weekend. Probably not a bad thing to be honest!

[blizzard]

I suspect I managed to misalign my RD after snapping the cable with 50km to go in the Brissie to Bay and finishing largely cross chained in 11th.

Have lost access to the 11 tooth on the rear and can’t seem to index the inner rings.

Any thoughts? Needs a service anyway which is booked, just may limit my climbing this weekend. Probably not a bad thing to be honest!

The stuff that goes wrong with a RD isn't that high, could be a limits set wrong, a bent hanger or somehow you put too much tension on the cable during install that is stopping it from going into the 11.

Seeing you can't index it I would think it's most likely the hanger.

[Mr Purple]

The stuff that goes wrong with a RD isn't that high, could be a limits set wrong, a bent hanger or somehow you put too much tension on the cable during install that is stopping it from going into the 11.

Seeing you can't index it I would think it's most likely the hanger.

Haven't touched the limit, and loosened the cable completely and still can't get the 11.

Given how I abused it (500W+ climbing efforts crosschained due to the snapped cable) and the symptoms it's got to be a bent hanger. Would mean it's angled in slightly so can't get the 11, and can't properly index the inner gears because the effective angle would be greater on that side.

Having said that it's pretty rideable provided I steer clear of Cootha Back this weekend and getting serviced next week. So I figure I'd only make it worse trying to fix it without an RD alignment tool.

[Andy01]

So I figure I'd only make it worse trying to fix it without an RD alignment tool.

Make yourself one - cost about $20.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWdO4dnu18g