I'm a champion bike mechanic...

[stevenaaus]

Two ? Duck, how many different shimano crankset caps? I think there's more than two.

[warthog1]

Well as much as I have raved about my Ultegra di2 FD shifting, I have dropped the chain a few times and did it again today. Going small to big it dropped all together onto the bb area. I had it in the 4th cog from the top (inside) of the cassette. Kept pedaling but it got sucked into the bb area by the chainring and scratched the frame Will need to get some touch up paint.



Decided that aint happening again so I stole the chain catcher off my S5, which has the same damage. Anyway thought I better work out how to setup a di FD so watched this;



Wasn't too hard. Easier than a cable derailleur without having to stuff around with cable tension.



Seems to shift well and the screw that supports the derailleur laterally under load butts onto the derailleur hander on the Reacto. Happy with that.

Also noticed whilst stuffing around that a 32mm tyre on the 25mm int WR50 is about as wide as I can go. It is reasonably close to the FD. Measures 35mm, so wide enough for a roadie anyway.

[Duck!]

Two ? Duck, how many different shimano crankset caps? I think there's more than two.

Two thread diameters, four different bolts. Most of the earlier generations and later low-spec models of Hollowtech II cranks have a thick-walled aluminium spindle, therefore use the smaller diameter bolt. Others have a thin-walled steel spindle which uses the larger diameter. 7800 Dura-Ace used an aluminium bolt that is otherwise the same as the larger bolts. MTB models also use the larger diameter, but are longer, therefore will bottom out the threads if used in road cranks and not pre-load.

[jasonc]

Got a mate running r7020. He's just bought an r7170 groupset. Can I use the same hydro cables?

[Duck!]

^^ Yes, the hydro parts are unchanged.

[jasonc]

^^ Yes, the hydro parts are unchanged.

Winning. Thanks duck

[warthog1]

That chain catcher has been a big plus. Not hard to fit either with the di2 FD, easier than a cable operated derailleur. The derailleur is working great too. I think the shifts are better if anything. Might have been out a bit previously. Using the support screw to adjust it in line, as per that video, worked first pop. Wish I did it first up when I got the bike.

[jasonc]

^^ Yes, the hydro parts are unchanged.

Winning. Thanks duck

BTW - this worked. so running r7020 brakes with r7170 shifters

[MichaelB]

So finally after moving g house, and the TdU ride coming up, decided to finally get off the proverbial and rebuild the Hint rear wheel that I killed on a pothole a while ago.
I bought the rims, and of course the ERD did t quite match for the original spokes, so went and bought some slightly shorter, and the house move took precedence.

But now can’t find the rear hub …..

PFBB.

Anyone got some 24 hole rear hubs up for grabs …..

[davehirst]

Although it requires building the wheelset twice, I have found the best thing to do is go out and buy another hub and build the wheel.
The next day you will be looking for something else and you will find your hub.
Pull apart the first wheel, return the hub then you can build your wheel.
Works for me.

[jasonc]

Although it requires building the wheelset twice, I have found the best thing to do is go out and buy another hub and build the wheel.
The next day you will be looking for something else and you will find your hub.
Pull apart the first wheel, return the hub then you can build your wheel.
Works for me.

Murphy's law

[davehirst]

No, its the Opposite of ochams razor.

[MichaelB]

Although it requires building the wheelset twice, I have found the best thing to do is go out and buy another hub and build the wheel.
The next day you will be looking for something else and you will find your hub.
Pull apart the first wheel, return the hub then you can build your wheel.
Works for me.

That's what will happen in the ned, but need the hubs 1st and 24H & straight pull are not cheap !!!

Some googling coming up, but likely to be a Novatech ....

[MichaelB]

So finally after moving g house, and the TdU ride coming up, decided to finally get off the proverbial and rebuild the Hint rear wheel that I killed on a pothole a while ago.
I bought the rims, and of course the ERD did t quite match for the original spokes, so went and bought some slightly shorter, and the house move took precedence.

But now can’t find the rear hub …..

PFBB.

Anyone got some 24 hole rear hubs up for grabs …..

As expected, 24H rear hubs, let alone straight pull are few & far between or are ridiculously expensive.

Cheapish & unknown with no dwgs to calculate spoke lengths ZTTO from Aliexpress (AT)$100

Novatec options - D412CB Straighpull or D792SB Flanged both available w dwgs, but exchange rate is crappy atm .....

EDIT :

Bitex BX312R are also an option, but not cheap (US$123), and Novatec seem to be4 not available to ship to Aus ....

[twizzle]

Setting up the old alloy Ribble Winter frame for crit racing, using my TT crankset. 42/55 rings, 11/28 cassette. Instead of big/small/vertical jockeys, I did the chain using the big/big + two links as that's the new standard for 28+ cassettes. But I could not get it to shift both in/out of the 11T when in the 55. Played with jockey wheels, cable grease, on and on... much swearing.

I finally went back to the B screw. Even with the B screw removed and in the lowest gearing, the upper jockey was no-where near the 28T. Add an extra two links to the chain, re-tune the gears and now it works like magic.

I'm thinking back over the years, how often I've struggled with consistent shifting.

[MichaelB]

So finally after moving g house, and the TdU ride coming up, decided to finally get off the proverbial and rebuild the Hint rear wheel that I killed on a pothole a while ago.
I bought the rims, and of course the ERD did t quite match for the original spokes, so went and bought some slightly shorter, and the house move took precedence.

But now can’t find the rear hub …..

PFBB.

Anyone got some 24 hole rear hubs up for grabs …..

And found it ….

Phew

[warthog1]

Nice Michael

[elantra]

So finally after moving g house, and the TdU ride coming up, decided to finally get off the proverbial and rebuild the Hint rear wheel that I killed on a pothole a while ago.
I bought the rims, and of course the ERD did t quite match for the original spokes, so went and bought some slightly shorter, and the house move took precedence.

But now can’t find the rear hub …..

PFBB.

Anyone got some 24 hole rear hubs up for grabs …..

And found it ….

Phew

You usually find these sorts of important thingos when you are looking for something else completely unrelated

[Duck!]

So finally after moving g house, and the TdU ride coming up, decided to finally get off the proverbial and rebuild the Hint rear wheel that I killed on a pothole a while ago.
I bought the rims, and of course the ERD did t quite match for the original spokes, so went and bought some slightly shorter, and the house move took precedence.

But now can’t find the rear hub …..

PFBB.

Anyone got some 24 hole rear hubs up for grabs …..

And found it ….

Phew

You usually find these sorts of important thingos when you are looking for something else completely unrelated

So true!

[Andy01]

So finally after moving g house, and the TdU ride coming up, decided to finally get off the proverbial and rebuild the Hint rear wheel that I killed on a pothole a while ago.
I bought the rims, and of course the ERD did t quite match for the original spokes, so went and bought some slightly shorter, and the house move took precedence.

But now can’t find the rear hub …..

PFBB.

Anyone got some 24 hole rear hubs up for grabs …..

And found it ….

Phew

You usually find these sorts of important thingos when you are looking for something else completely unrelated

And usually about a week after you went out and bought a new one (because you couldn't find it)

[jasonc]

Tried setting up my new (tubeless) gravel wheels yesterday. installed 22mm wide rim tape in 24.5mm internal width wheels. inflated. heard lots of pops. looked good. came back an hour or so later. both flat. on one of them i could hear the air coming out between the tyre and the rim. so i threw in sealant figuring that might seal it. nope. leak must be elsewhere. i think i need wider rim tape.

[warthog1]

Tubeless tape needs to go right to the vertical inner edge of the rim afaik.
Given it needs to be pushed down into the curved hollow in the middle of the rim it needs to be wider by the sounds of it.
When I seat a tubeless I then put the sealant in (45mm gravel ~70ml) reinflate and put the wheel on its' side and slowly wobble/rotate it around so the sealant meets the bead seat. Do that for both sides.
I am self taught but I have about 50k km on tubeless now and it has worked.

[biker jk]

Tried setting up my new (tubeless) gravel wheels yesterday. installed 22mm wide rim tape in 24.5mm internal width wheels. inflated. heard lots of pops. looked good. came back an hour or so later. both flat. on one of them i could hear the air coming out between the tyre and the rim. so i threw in sealant figuring that might seal it. nope. leak must be elsewhere. i think i need wider rim tape.

Yes the rim tape needs to be 2-3mm wider than the internal rim width. Try 27mm wide rim rape.

[jasonc]

Tried setting up my new (tubeless) gravel wheels yesterday. installed 22mm wide rim tape in 24.5mm internal width wheels. inflated. heard lots of pops. looked good. came back an hour or so later. both flat. on one of them i could hear the air coming out between the tyre and the rim. so i threw in sealant figuring that might seal it. nope. leak must be elsewhere. i think i need wider rim tape.

Yes the rim tape needs to be 2-3mm wider than the internal rim width. Try 27mm wide rim rape.

cheers

[MichaelB]

Nice Michael

Now just gotta build it ......

Actually, I found it pretty easy, so all good in the end.