Tubeless roadbike tyres

[foo on patrol]

A new benchmark set for absolutely ridiculous tyre pricing for a tiny little tyre that will last 5k km
https://www.pushys.com.au/pirelli-p-zer ... lsrc=aw.ds

I just don't get coffee shop riders spending money like this on tyres and then jump up n down because they puncture 2klms down the road or wear them out in a couple of months.

Foo

The tread is likely very thin, around 1.6 to 1.8mm, so it's not going to be very robust when that speck of glass looks up and aims straight for the centre tread bearing down on it.

"Coffee shop riders", lol!
They'd be the same crew who buy $25,000-plus DOGMAs,only to ride to the coast for coffee on Saturday mornings and church on Sunday.

How do I know this?

DOGMAs and Cervélos are in my riding group, and these guys only ride at weekends, being, as they are, involved in professions and high office that provides them with the filthy lucre to afford such extravagant toys. If they get a puncture, the missues is summoned and they are picked up in a salubrious 'Benz and whisked away to save them any embarrassment of toiling away trying to find and fix a puncture.

Foo

[MichaelB]

After almost wearing out a set of the Conti GP Urban 35's Just stuck a new one on the back) on the iCAN Commuter, and now only have 2 spares, I started browsing for the replacements.

Whilst they're good, I'm annoyed (1st world issue) at them being labelled 35 when they are actually 33, and this seems to be pretty common these days, and wanting something a bit bigger, ended up getting a pair of Pirelli P ZERO Race TLR Tubeless Tyre (Speedcore) in the 40mm size.

Whilst few have tested the 40mm size, BRR has done the 32mm version and rated them well.

The 40mm will be better for the very tree root infested path I take, and with better grip, reduced RR and improved puncture resistance, decided to take a plunge. They weren't any cheaper from OS, so got them from ccache.

[MichaelB]

After almost wearing out a set of the Conti GP Urban 35's Just stuck a new one on the back) on the iCAN Commuter, and now only have 2 spares, I started browsing for the replacements.

Whilst they're good, I'm annoyed (1st world issue) at them being labelled 35 when they are actually 33, and this seems to be pretty common these days, and wanting something a bit bigger, ended up getting a pair of Pirelli P ZERO Race TLR Tubeless Tyre (Speedcore) in the 40mm size.

Whilst few have tested the 40mm size, BRR has done the 32mm version and rated them well.

The 40mm will be better for the very tree root infested path I take, and with better grip, reduced RR and improved puncture resistance, decided to take a plunge. They weren't any cheaper from OS, so got them from ccache.

Now the 40mm are tested

https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.co ... ace-tlr-40

[blizzard]

The Bontrager Aeolus RSL TLR tested really well on BRR, fast and good tread coverage. I would consider these for my next set of tyres, if the price is ok... They are currently on sale for $118, which is more than I want spend.

[MichaelB]

The Bontrager Aeolus RSL TLR tested really well on BRR, fast and good tread coverage. I would consider these for my next set of tyres, if the price is ok... They are currently on sale for $118, which is more than I want spend.

Yep, the prices of tyres are still silly.

The PZero's I got were $92 ea, which is still crazy, but even the Conti Urbans are $65 ea, thinner, lower grip, higher RR, puncture resistance and not tubeless.

Will be interesting !!

[warthog1]

I still have a $100- limit for bicycle tyres.
Even that is way more than it was 5 or so years ago.
But it is a quick wearing bloody bicycle tyre not a car or motorcycle tyre.
I aint paying ridiculous prices. Even 100 is getting pretty out there for what it is.

[foo on patrol]

I still have a $100- limit for bicycle tyres.
Even that is way more than it was 5 or so years ago.
But it is a quick wearing bloody bicycle tyre not a car or motorcycle tyre.
I aint paying ridiculous prices. Even 100 is getting pretty out there for what it is.

I refuse to pay that amount for riding around the streets or on dirt. I'll pay $100+ for racing tyres but not coffee shop or training rides.

Foo

[warthog1]

I still have a $100- limit for bicycle tyres.
Even that is way more than it was 5 or so years ago.
But it is a quick wearing bloody bicycle tyre not a car or motorcycle tyre.
I aint paying ridiculous prices. Even 100 is getting pretty out there for what it is.

I refuse to pay that amount for riding around the streets or on dirt. I'll pay $100+ for racing tyres but not coffee shop or training rides.

Foo

I like tubeless but they are very bloody expensive. I got my last few for 80 each. Schwalbe pro one.

Here's some for ya Foo. https://www.tmosports.com.au/product/01 ... 3XrVsupaXg

Don't question them on WW about the price of those. It is "cutting edge technology" don't you know, of course they are expensive.

[foo on patrol]

That's just ridiculous money if just doing coffee shop rides or training. If training ride heavy and race light.

Foo

[warthog1]

That's just ridiculous money if just doing coffee shop rides or training. If training ride heavy and race light.

Foo

I no longer race but I do ride.
I aint paying for those but good tubeless tyres are the bee's knees imo. Punctures are almost a thing of the past and ride and grip is great. Aint paying that though.
Tyre tech has moved on but they are charging stupid money it seems.

[warthog1]

Interesting concept the "whole train light, race heavy" idea. I did sort of do it a bit back when I did race but never rode Schwalbe marathons or the like, which would be the logical extension of the concept I guess. You ride good tyres it's hard to go back. I guess we all have our own limits and priorities. My willingness to spend is higher than some but lower than others. Cbfed racing now.
It has crept into other parts of the bike too. Wheels being one. I love carbon wheels and haven't ridden a shallow aluminium wheel on road for years. Disc brake takes it a step further, as removing the brake track from the wheel removes any negatives they have for me.

[blizzard]

$100 is my limit for tyres but I would rather ride nice tyres all the time, I don't do big k's on the roadie so $200 every couple years is ok. My last GP5000TL lasted almost 10,000km, and I only changed them because I had a set of Vittorias that had been in the garage for three years.

[Mr Purple]

Nice tyres make a huge difference, though I agree if you're spending much more than $100 (especially with my tyre usage) it's not worth it. It does annoy me that tyres for my cars don't cost that much more, though that's economy of scale I guess.

New bike has hookless rims so I'll be a bit limited from now - GP5000 TR, Schwalbe Pro 1 or Vittoria Corsa NEXT seem to be the only tyres I'd actually buy that are compatible.

[blizzard]

I think technically, you can use any tubeless tyre on Giant wheels at your own risk. The ones they say are compatible are the ones that meet their fairly rigourous tests. However, I would be erring on just running one of the listed tyres for peace of mind.

[Mr Purple]

It seems a risk that is not worth taking. Especially when I've used all except the Schwalbe and found them entirely adequate.

In my experience the GP5000s dry out sealant slightly faster (I think they're more porous), and the Vittoria Corsa wear faster (literally half the mileage of the GP5000s).

Honestly looking at the numbers on RR I'm probably crazy to try anything other than the GP5000s. Though the Schwalbe are $85 versus $109 which adds up.

[warthog1]

You should be able to use any tyre that is listed as hookless compatible, which is just about all of them from 28 and up now as long as you stay within the 72.5psi - 5bar etrto pressure limit.
My WR 50s are hookless. I have zero concerns. They are 25mm wide int. Running a 30mm Schwalbe pro one f and 32mm Michelin power road on the rear. 50 psi at each end is plenty hard at my 75kgs.

[MichaelB]

The Bontrager Aeolus RSL TLR tested really well on BRR, fast and good tread coverage. I would consider these for my next set of tyres, if the price is ok... They are currently on sale for $118, which is more than I want spend.

Yep, the prices of tyres are still silly.

The PZero's I got were $92 ea, which is still crazy, but even the Conti Urbans are $65 ea, thinner, lower grip, higher RR, puncture resistance and not tubeless.

Will be interesting !!

Have requested a refund, as Pirelli have confirmed with ccache that supply is not till end of Dec.

[Duck!]

I think technically, you can use any tubeless tyre on Giant wheels at your own risk. The ones they say are compatible are the ones that meet their fairly rigourous tests. However, I would be erring on just running one of the listed tyres for piece peace of mind.

My understanding from the time I worked in a Giant shop is that with a few exceptions, MOST tubeless-ready tyres are compatible with their hookless rims. However, if you want to use tubes, you must still use tubeless-ready tyres in order to get the bead grip; non-TR clinchers don't have the bead strength to hang onto the hookless rim.

[warthog1]

I think technically, you can use any tubeless tyre on Giant wheels at your own risk. The ones they say are compatible are the ones that meet their fairly rigourous tests. However, I would be erring on just running one of the listed tyres for piece peace of mind.

My understanding from the time I worked in a Giant shop is that with a few exceptions, MOST tubeless-ready tyres are compatible with their hookless rims. However, if you want to use tubes, you must still use tubeless-ready tyres in order to get the bead grip; non-TR clinchers don't have the bead strength to hang onto the hookless rim.

My understanding is the tyres need to be specifically hookless compatible in order to use them. Quite a few 25 and 26mmTLR tyres are specified as not hookless compatible. Many/most 28mm and larger now are.

[Mr Purple]

My understanding from the time I worked in a Giant shop is that with a few exceptions, MOST tubeless-ready tyres are compatible with their hookless rims. However, if you want to use tubes, you must still use tubeless-ready tyres in order to get the bead grip; non-TR clinchers don't have the bead strength to hang onto the hookless rim.

Giant have a list as below:

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au/hookless-technology

However the list only includes 'Hookless Compatible' tyres with a maximum pressure of above 72.5PSI. Apparently if the maximum pressure listed on the side of the tyre is below 72.5PSI, the tyre is tubeless, and it's not listed as 'incompatible' with hookless, it's also fine.

Not confusing at all. I presume the tyres they actually list are less likely to blow off in any situation though, simply because you can safely run more pressure in them hookless.

[warthog1]

That's just ridiculous money if just doing coffee shop rides or training. If training ride heavy and race light.

Foo

Remco has had a crash.
Saw it in another thread. Hit an opened door,
Also saw this


I am going with his plan for training on good tyres rather than yours mate
He has a world title or two to his name unlike either of us.

[Thoglette]

That's just ridiculous money if just doing coffee shop rides.

FMBs for the coffee runs

[warthog1]

That's just ridiculous money if just doing coffee shop rides.

FMBs for the coffee runs

Handmade tubulars?

https://www.fmbtires.com/

[foo on patrol]

That's just ridiculous money if just doing coffee shop rides or training. If training ride heavy and race light.

Foo

Remco has had a crash.
Saw it in another thread. Hit an opened door,
Also saw this


I am going with his plan for training on good tyres rather than yours mate
He has a world title or two to his name unlike either of us.

He trains on whatever he is provided with, not what he buys off the shelf.

I can tell you from personal experience that hitting a car door at speed is not good. I had one open infront of me and I hit it full tilt and summersaulted of it and landed in the live lane and was just lucky enough that I could still roll out of the way of the traffic.

Foo

[warthog1]

He trains on whatever he is provided with, not what he buys off the shelf.

I can tell you from personal experience that hitting a car door at speed is not good. I had one open infront of me and I hit it full tilt and summersaulted of it and landed in the live lane and was just lucky enough that I could still roll out of the way of the traffic.

Foo

True he isn't paying for any of that stuff but they aint making him train on sh it either.

Yeah car doors are a big fear of mine too. I stay well out of the way. Stopped a bunch ride here locally a few years back. They rode through the main street of town in the "bicycle lane" door zone. A very near dooring in the front of the buch with a truck alongside That was the end of that bunch for me.