I'm a champion bike mechanic...

[blizzard]

Just serviced my DT 240 EXP using Slickoleum instead of DT Swiss grease in the hope it would quieten the ratchet more. Appears to work fine but definitely not quieter. See how it goes long term, in terms of wear etc. (not overly concerned if it does wear i have a spare freehub and ratchet set from the recall when the hub was first released waiting to be installed).

[P!N20]

Following my successful ST-6700 shifter repair, the next patient was my Sram Rival brakes. The goal was to extract the push rods in the levers to give them a clean and grease. The only problem was the push rod in the left lever wasn't returning so I couldn't actually pull it out. Spent many hours trying to push it out from behind via the hose attachment port without much luck until it finally budged. Still not 100% sure what was stopping it coming out, but the spring was corroded so I think it just refused to let go.

Next job is to clean and grease the brake caliper pistons then bleed the system and get this bad boy on the road.

[Mr Purple]

Pedals have felt a bit loose the last couple of rides and I remember thinking a couple of times 'I should tighten them'.

Right cleat jumped out of the pedal while accelerating at the beginning of today's 74km ride and it's hard to tell just how worn it was before I skidded along the road with it for a little bit, but it's certainly very worn now!

Lesson learned. Loose pedal, check cleat. Also log mileage on cleats on Strava like every other consumable on the bike.

[blizzard]

Serviced the SR Suntour coil fork on my Cargo bike (basically take everything apart, degrease, regrease and replace the stanchion seals). Really quite straightforward, and for once took about the time I thought it would.

[jasonc]

Upgraded my aethos from 105 di2 shifters and brakes to dura-ace shifters and brakes. Had to do the bar tape twice. Just the wheels to come. Then I have to decide if I want to wire the shifters so I can remove the shifter batteries

[blizzard]

Upgraded my aethos from 105 di2 shifters and brakes to dura-ace shifters and brakes. Had to do the bar tape twice. Just the wheels to come. Then I have to decide if I want to wire the shifters so I can remove the shifter batteries

Any reason for the upgrade or just because? I would probably leave it wireless on the Aethos for aesthetic reasons.

[CmdrBiggles]

Upgraded my aethos from 105 di2 shifters and brakes to dura-ace shifters and brakes. Had to do the bar tape twice. Just the wheels to come. Then I have to decide if I want to wire the shifters so I can remove the shifter batteries

Snazzy.
DuraAce wireless has been spoken of as the equal to SRAM's RED. I would be interested in feedback about comparative performance of both that riders have had. Me, if confronted by a choice of bike with SRAM RED or DuraAce, I would leap for DuraAce. I am not exactly turned on by the drab look of SRAM's RED gruppo compared to the holographic finish of the FORCE.

I have seen the DuraAce transmission on a few higher end MERIDA roadies in Melbourne shops.

Anxiety about wireless shifters is overcooked I think. Mark your calendar for replacement after two years, at the start or end of Daylight Savings, or some other notable event. I carry a spare battery pair in my seat pack. There will be prior warning up front on the computer.

[jasonc]

Upgraded my aethos from 105 di2 shifters and brakes to dura-ace shifters and brakes. Had to do the bar tape twice. Just the wheels to come. Then I have to decide if I want to wire the shifters so I can remove the shifter batteries

Any reason for the upgrade or just because? I would probably leave it wireless on the Aethos for aesthetic reasons.

I wanted the hidden buttons. Looking at the weight saving between 105, ultegra and dura-ace. I thought why not! Bike bug had 10% off so I did it. So far from stock aethos comp with 105 di2 it now has:
- a lighter stem (shorter)
- carbon bars (narrower)
- ultegra crank
Before it left the shop it got a 155 power saddle
This weekend I've replaced:
- dura-ace cranks and levers
First time using the shimano app to connect the shifters and derailleurs. Worked well
- ultegra cassette
On order is a set of wheels

Now I have more stuff to sell
I like the idea of a single battery to maintain. There are enough batteries on my bike

[2wheels_mond]

I like the idea of a single battery to maintain. There are enough batteries on my bike

On 105 Di2 I find it a pretty painless process, especially considering my crankset power meter has a battery that lasts as least as long as the Di2. Once the notification comes up on my Garmin, next time I'm home I just sit a powerbank in the bottle cage with a cable coming out for the Di2 battery and the power meter battery. Only have to do it once a month at most. Can't get much easier than that!

[Mr Purple]

Upgraded my aethos from 105 di2 shifters and brakes to dura-ace shifters and brakes. Had to do the bar tape twice. Just the wheels to come. Then I have to decide if I want to wire the shifters so I can remove the shifter batteries

Any reason for the upgrade or just because? I would probably leave it wireless on the Aethos for aesthetic reasons.

I wanted the hidden buttons. Looking at the weight saving between 105, ultegra and dura-ace. I thought why not! Bike bug had 10% off so I did it. So far from stock aethos comp with 105 di2 it now has:
- a lighter stem (shorter)
- carbon bars (narrower)
- ultegra crank
Before it left the shop it got a 155 power saddle
This weekend I've replaced:
- dura-ace cranks and levers
First time using the shimano app to connect the shifters and derailleurs. Worked well
- ultegra cassette
On order is a set of wheels

What's your bike weight down to Jason?

I was vaguely looking at that model - 7.5kg with the hefty DT Swisse R470 wheelset (1780g). You could replace the wheelset with a Farsports or Light Bicycle for not a huge amount and get it under 7kg. Carbon bars and a lighter saddle and it's below the UCI limit.

[jasonc]

I'm not weighing it till the wheels arrive. Technically I already have the wheels as they are on my tarmac. They are farsports feder dt240s 28mm wide, 35mm deep. I've ordered exactly the same. The new ones will go on my tarmac as it will get used more.
Bottle cages are from aliexpress and weigh 13g each

[Mr Purple]

I'm not weighing it till the wheels arrive. Technically I already have the wheels as they are on my tarmac. They are farsports feder dt240s 28mm wide, 35mm deep. I've ordered exactly the same. The new ones will go on my tarmac as it will get used more.
Bottle cages are from aliexpress and weigh 13g each

Pretty much the same set I'd go with - make sure you use the Hambini code, they still worked when I last bought a set.

Instant 500g weight saving there!

[jasonc]

Hambini code?
The wheels are already ordered

[bychosis]

I laced a wheel yesterday. Only put two spoke in wrong and had to take the nipple off. I watched the park tool wheel build while I did it. I also marked the rim with tape where a couple of spoke either side of the valve hole went.

Much better than the last efforts requiring several attempts to get it right.

I'll leave the true champion mechnic comments until completing truing. Its a bit wobbly so far but was getting late last night.

[Mr Purple]

Hambini code?
The wheels are already ordered

Too late! 20% off.

[jasonc]

Hambini code?
The wheels are already ordered

Too late! 20% off.

Damn

[bychosis]

Went back to complete truing the wheel. Thought I had it fairly good, just a little out of round and side to side. Popped the wheel in the bike becasue I hadn't actually checked it was exactly the right hub. Its a 20mm through axle and I'd recently read about 20mm boost. All good. Brake disc in correct location.

Back into the home made truing stand and it looked like it was dished completely wrong. Yep. When reversed in the stand it was out. Turns out I'd not set the hub in the axle stand bit properly. Couple more measures and the hub set more level. Loosen all the left spokes, tighten all the right ones to re-dish. Still not overly true, but close enough for a test ride.

[stevenaaus]

I got my mate to rebuild a wheel for me once... Took it home, well pleased with the outcome. Until 1 year later i actually tried to put it on a bike! Yes, you guessed it, perfectly dished on the wrong side
I never had the heart to tell him , as mate was always doing gratis bike repairs. Anyway , i gave another retired mate an article on wheel building, and he re did the thing (wheel was for himself).

[jasonc]

I've got a set of wheels from farsports. they are coming with veloplugs
Anyone run them?

[OnTrackZeD]

I've got a set of wheels from farsports. they are coming with veloplugs
Anyone run them?

I like Veloplugs but was wondering are they good with TPU tubes?

[jasonc]

I've got a set of wheels from farsports. they are coming with veloplugs
Anyone run them?

I like Veloplugs but was wondering are they good with TPU tubes?

I suppose I'll find out for both of us

[foo on patrol]

Fixed the front triple changer on my lastest addition = Giant 8sp triple SIS. For some reason the overlocker that rides over the pawls in the change was not engaging all three chainrings. I thought that I had it fixed when I first got it from my sister because it was engaging the large ring and after a bit of stuffing around I got it to work. I went out for a roll on the BVRT yesterday and discovered that I couldn't get the small ring and that meant riding 11klm into the mongrel headwind and that hurt big time with my lack of condition.

Pulled the cover off the lever and found it wasn't locking over the pawl for the small chainring but couldn't understand why, so I undid the cable at the changer and the changer went straight to the frame, which meant it should have been getting the slmall ring. Retensioned the cable and then I couldn't get the big ring again, so after another half hour of adjusting screws and tensioners I finally figured it out. I put the lever into the very lowest position like it was on the small ring and reconected the cable ans set about adjusting things again and Bob's ya uncle.

Foo

[robbo mcs]

I ran veloplugs for a while, with TPU tubes, on one set of rims.

I find the plugs can make fitting the tyre more difficult. They protrude slightly, and reduce the depth of the wheel well in the centre of the rim. The latest tyres tend to be tight (mostly tubeless compatible). When you are trying to push the last bit over, you need all the room you can get to push the rest of the tyre into the central wheel well.

I virtually never puncture TPU's. However I did have 2x punctures relatively quickly after fitting them on these rims. I never found the cause, vut thought I might have damaged them innthe difficult fitting process.

Eventually I just pulled the plugs out and went with conventional rim tape.

[jasonc]

Thanks robbo. Will see how I go

[Mr Purple]

Pulled the cover off the lever and found it wasn't locking over the pawl for the small chainring but couldn't understand why, so I undid the cable at the changer and the changer went straight to the frame, which meant it should have been getting the slmall ring. Retensioned the cable and then I couldn't get the big ring again, so after another half hour of adjusting screws and tensioners I finally figured it out. I put the lever into the very lowest position like it was on the small ring and reconected the cable ans set about adjusting things again and Bob's ya uncle.

Foo

Ah, yeah. I've done that, usually when fitting a new cable!

It's one of those things that is completely logical but I have to mentally check it every time otherwise it just ends in frustration.

Probably like 'threading the chain through the RD incorrectly' it's just one of those mistakes you have to make at least once.