What did you do with your bike(s) today?

[am50em]

My Garmin Edge 830 has been slow in getting GPS fix for the last few months so decided to do full reset to fix this issue. However could not get it to pair back with my phone. Multiple attempts, removal of device from garmin account, reboots of both devices, unpairing, removing other paired devices. Finally tried pairing with tablet which worked first go so could set-up wireless connection on the 830. More attempts to pair to phone, then finally it worked. No idea what changed. Two hours of mucking around and then re-adding data screens and sensors. But it now appears to get GPS lock quickly again, so happy with that.

[elantra]

Tinkering around with the old Tip-shop Daccordi again.



Pulled most of the components off it the other day.
Except the drive-side bottom bearing cup, the seatpost, the handlebar and stem.

Had a crack at the BB cup today.
I was a bit nervous because I had no clear idea if it is an Italian thread or English thread (R) BB cup.
As it is an Italian frame but with a Shimano BB

I had a bet each way.
Put an old Sugino tool on it and kept it there with my knee as I gave it a few gentle taps of the hammer - in either direction !
Nothing happened for a while so I hit the tool a bit harder.
Then all of a sudden it shifted - to the left, so an Italian thread.

Than the handlebar.
Bar tape off, crikeys the alloy is in immaculate condition.
Brake levers had been removed earlier so that just left the mounts. Bit stiff but a touch of WD 40 and they were off without any scratches on the bars.
Handlebar bolt wasn’t grossly overnighted and came off without dramas.
Then the bars easily removed with a tiny amount of screwdriver to open the stem clamp area ever so slightly.

Steel seatpost.
Sacrificed this (non-original) seatpost to achieve easy removal.
A power drill with step drill bit put a 1 cm hole through the top of it.
Then a 3/8th inch bolt went through the seatpost and a length of metal tube provided the torque to twist it out.
All good news except the steerer stem is really stuck and that might be beyond my resources

[am50em]

Tested the Edge 830 this morning and it got GPS lock in just a few seconds. Worth the pain of the reset.

[redsonic]

All good news except the steerer stem is really stuck and that might be beyond my resources

You might be able to tap it out from underneath if the fork crown has an opening?

[warthog1]

Tested the Edge 830 this morning and it got GPS lock in just a few seconds. Worth the pain of the reset.

Yep, nice result

[g-boaf]

Tested the Edge 830 this morning and it got GPS lock in just a few seconds. Worth the pain of the reset.

My 1030 has the trick that sometimes it will refuse to auto-sync rides to Garmin Connect. So I have to open the app and it then manually syncs - and sometimes very reluctantly.

Other times it will sync automatically. I've given up trying to troubleshoot it.

[elantra]

All good news except the steerer stem is really stuck and that might be beyond my resources

You might be able to tap it out from underneath if the fork crown has an opening?

Yes worth considering thanks.
There is a circular opening in the fork crown which must be about 22 mm, the standard size for the old school quill stem diameter.

The alloy quill stem though is not the usual type with a triangular end plug.
It is the Italian type [Cinelli] with a circular plug that expands the symmetrical alloy flanges, which are quite thin.

Will give it a go, once I find something solid and circular section [about 22 mm or slightly less]
Cheers

[am50em]

Apart from taking a couple of minutes to get GPS, the 830 had been working perfectly including auto uploads. Garmin devices don't give much in way of debug information when things aren't working as expected, which is frustrating.

[warthog1]

All good news except the steerer stem is really stuck and that might be beyond my resources

You might be able to tap it out from underneath if the fork crown has an opening?

Yes worth considering thanks.
There is a circular opening in the fork crown which must be about 22 mm, the standard size for the old school quill stem diameter.

The alloy quill stem though is not the usual type with a triangular end plug.
It is the Italian type [Cinelli] with a circular plug that expands the symmetrical alloy flanges, which are quite thin.

Will give it a go, once I find solid and circular section [about 22 mm or slightly less]
Cheers

Socket, or preferably impact socket, and socket extension bar?

[CmdrBiggles]

First ride on TCR in 2 weeks, Geelong to Jan Juc and return via Bells Beach (brrrrr!) — 45km.
Coffee at 'The Pond', Torquay — a vanilla slice, a salted caramel slice and return. It's time..

...For a transmission clean-up!

• Download to derailleurs SRAM updates. Into safe mode, batteries out for wash down
• Thorough rinse with atomiser spray of derailleurs and transmission prior to degreaser
• Muc-Off (carbon safe) degreaser sprayed onto freewheel and chainrings running at speed in reverse

Matinee: lunch and open many little goodies from AusPost.

• Atomiser spray off of degreaser, again running freewheel and chainrings at speed in reverse
• Transmission dried with hair drier on medium
• Whole kit and caboodle brought under shelter as drizzle starts!
• Application of Muc-off Dry PTFE 3-step lube over chain, jockey and lower pulley on derailleur
• Wipe down and stand-dry.

• Fit Muc-Off tubeless valve locknuts
• Fit PrototipoWorks CNC silver presta valve caps
• Fit PrototipoWorks CNC gold low profile bidon cage bolts
• Fit small Blackburn seat pack
• Fit DaySaver WHIP strap in place of 'plain-Jane' strap supplied with the Blackburn pack
• Stow spare SRAM front or rear derailleur battery (in Blackburn pack)
• Wrap 'bars Burgh Ossa handlebar tape — a memory throwback to my mid-winter clamber up Mount Ossa in Tasmania, 2005!
• Polish-up with Kitten super hard shell shine, and buff down.

Another coffee...

To come:
• iGSPORT iG800 computer https://igpsport.com.au/products/igs800 ... g-computer
• SRAM auxiliary blips + primary programming

A very satisfying 3 hours spent on a grey and cool Sat'day. Monday is my next ride. Tomorrow, Sunday, is scheduled to be wet, so ideal for bushwalking.

[CmdrBiggles]

Tested the Edge 830 this morning and it got GPS lock in just a few seconds. Worth the pain of the reset.

My 1030 has the trick that sometimes it will refuse to auto-sync rides to Garmin Connect. So I have to open the app and it then manually syncs - and sometimes very reluctantly.

Other times it will sync automatically. I've given up trying to troubleshoot it.

Garmin Connect was used for a while for sync purposes with my and a friend's GPS units — his eTrek, my GPSMap 64s; we found it to be the most unreliable and unstable of any software I have installed on the phone, so it was removed (long ago). We're long-time users of Base Camp for mapping and statistics, chiefly for bushwalking/orienteering.

[warthog1]

First ride on TCR in 2 weeks, Geelong to Jan Juc and return via Bells Beach (brrrrr!) — 45km.
Coffee at 'The Pond', Torquay — a vanilla slice, a salted caramel slice and return. It's time..

...For a transmission clean-up!

• Download to derailleurs SRAM updates. Into safe mode, batteries out for wash down
• Thorough rinse with atomiser spray of derailleurs and transmission prior to degreaser
• Muc-Off (carbon safe) degreaser sprayed onto freewheel and chainrings running at speed in reverse

Matinee: lunch and open many little goodies from AusPost.

• Atomiser spray off of degreaser, again running freewheel and chainrings at speed in reverse
• Transmission dried with hair drier on medium
• Whole kit and caboodle brought under shelter as drizzle starts!
• Application of Muc-off Dry PTFE 3-step lube over chain, jockey and lower pulley on derailleur
• Wipe down and stand-dry.

• Fit Muc-Off tubeless valve locknuts
• Fit PrototipoWorks CNC silver presta valve caps
• Fit PrototipoWorks CNC gold low profile bidon cage bolts
• Fit small Blackburn seat pack
• Fit DaySaver WHIP strap in place of 'plain-Jane' strap supplied with the Blackburn pack
• Stow spare SRAM front or rear derailleur battery (in Blackburn pack)
• Wrap 'bars Burgh Ossa handlebar tape — a memory throwback to my mid-winter clamber up Mount Ossa in Tasmania, 2005!
• Polish-up with Kitten super hard shell shine, and buff down.

Another coffee...

To come:
• iGSPORT iG800 computer https://igpsport.com.au/products/igs800 ... g-computer
• SRAM auxiliary blips + primary programming

A very satisfying 3 hours spent on a grey and cool Sat'day. Monday is my next ride. Tomorrow, Sunday, is scheduled to be wet, so ideal for bushwalking.

I remember you commenting that chain waxing was too much hassle/work or something along those lines...
Compared to that is way less work
Way cleaner, less wear, less time/work and less friction.
Each to their own though
I hate bike cleaning and maintainence.

It sounds like a great spot to ride and much better than the zwifting I am doing at the moment.

[warthog1]

Garmin user here, due to functionality/price.
Edge 1030+, varia radar/tail light, 2 pair of Vector 3 PM pedals.
1030+ and both sets of pedals were factory refurbished units, so basically half price.
It all works and works well. You could argue that as they were factory refurbushed they have given somebody trouble, none for I however.
Garmin connect gives no trouble

[CmdrBiggles]

I remember you commenting that chain waxing was too much hassle/work or something along those lines...
Compared to that is way less work
Way cleaner, less wear, less time/work and less friction.
Each to their own though

I can assure you the process is not a tedious, drawn out procedure — quicker than it reads!
Too excited getting other goodies unwrapped!

Meanwhile, I think we're tugging at the forelocks of a quaint, bygone era with this waxing stuff.

Chain waxing was a part of club night entertainment in the bicycle touring clubs among them Eastern ('The Eebies', defunct 1991), Melbourne (still going!) and Knox (defunct) in the 1980s; even the long-defunct Bendigo Bicycle Tourists (1984-1993, based in Wattle Street) had these demo nights (at Kanga Flat Hall), around the same time as MSR released its firecracker Whisperlite stove on Demo Night loan to great whistles and fanfare, all while the clueless Club Prez waxed chains in the pot at colossal heat, almost incinerating the clubrooms. Jeeez.

In following, more sedate times, more commonly a Trangia pot (on low heat) filled with 3 or 4 candles bought from Mitre 10 — and thems were nae spekky candles, but some times pot pouri scent was added! The chief problem was the chain, once dry, rode higher on the derailleur pulleys, affecting shifting until the wax wore down — DuraAce rear derailleurs hated this (then (unrelated question: what were DuraAce derailleurs doing on hard-core touring bicycles??); the other problem was what happens when the its filthy in wet and dirty weather — pretty much every perceived or actual benefit is reduced to zero.

Head up to Forrest in the Otways and nobody at all is using waxing (if in fact any of the gun guys had heard of it!) — it's all PTFE wet or dry lubes for MTBers on the Forrest network trails and race courses — remembering too, this isn't a gentle burble 'round the 'burbs! The wet lubes (Muc-off, FinishLine, Morgan Blue, anor) are also very stable and clean in wet weather, requiring just a wipe down.

The bike is behind me as I write and it looks spiffingly sparkly. I am very pleased. And that's what matters.

POSTSCRIPT: The ride to Torquay and Jan Juc, 5km further, was cool, then cold at JJ and even (by perception) colder still passing the turn-off to Bells Beach! That's why I bee-lined to Torquay and the shelter of a warm cafe. Being a long weekend, there are a lot of drivers not so keen on courtesy and commonsense (particularly noticeable in Torquay!) instead, more interested in passing at a higher speed, which implies they are over the speed limit (I estimate close to 80km/h in a 60km/h new housing estate area).

[warthog1]

I remember you commenting that chain waxing was too much hassle/work or something along those lines...
Compared to that is way less work
Way cleaner, less wear, less time/work and less friction.
Each to their own though

I can assure you the process is not a tedious, drawn out procedure — quicker than it reads!
Too excited getting other goodies unwrapped!

Meanwhile, I think we're tugging at the forelocks of a quaint, bygone era with this waxing stuff.

Chain waxing was a part of club night entertainment in the bicycle touring clubs among them Eastern ('The Eebies', defunct 1991), Melbourne (still going!) and Knox (defunct) in the 1980s; even the long-defunct Bendigo Bicycle Tourists (1984-1993, based in Wattle Street) had these demo nights (at Kanga Flat Hall), around the same time as MSR released its firecracker Whisperlite stove on Demo Night loan to great whistles and fanfare, all while the clueless Club Prez waxed chains in the pot at colossal heat, almost incinerating the clubrooms. Jeeez.

In following, more sedate times, more commonly a Trangia pot (on low heat) filled with 3 or 4 candles bought from Mitre 10 — and thems were nae spekky candles, but some times pot pouri scent was added! The chief problem was the chain, once dry, rode higher on the derailleur pulleys, affecting shifting until the wax wore down — DuraAce rear derailleurs hated this (then (unrelated question: what were DuraAce derailleurs doing on hard-core touring bicycles??); the other problem was what happens when the its filthy in wet and dirty weather — pretty much every perceived or actual benefit is reduced to zero.

Head up to Forrest in the Otways and nobody at all is using waxing (if in fact any of the gun guys had heard of it!) — it's all PTFE wet or dry lubes for MTBers on the Forrest network trails and race courses — remembering too, this isn't a gentle burble 'round the 'burbs! The wet lubes (Muc-off, FinishLine, Morgan Blue, anor) are also very stable and clean in wet weather, requiring just a wipe down.

The bike is behind me as I write and it looks spiffingly sparkly. I am very pleased. And that's what matters.

POSTSCRIPT: The ride to Torquay and Jan Juc, 5km further, was cool, then cold at JJ and even (by perception) colder still passing the turn-off to Bells Beach! That's why I bee-lined to Torquay and the shelter of a warm cafe. Being a long weekend, there are a lot of drivers not so keen on courtesy and commonsense (particularly noticeable in Torquay!) instead, more interested in passing at a higher speed, which implies they are over the speed limit (I estimate close to 80km/h in a 60km/h new housing estate area).

You really need to check this site out. He has spent a lot of time and effort testing lubes and chains.
https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/
He contradicts all of those dated anecdotes with up to date evidence.
It is easier, cleaner and quicker. Not going back to the old days of wet lube myself having tried it.

Pity about the drivers. Yep they can drag down a ride quickly. I am selective of where and when I ride at home, but harder to do when travelling. I'll probably do more gravel when away from home.

[familyguy]

Second refit of rear hydro. Noticed a few drops of fluid after edition one, with a syill-spongy lever. Figured it was my crap barb setting. Did it all again. Bled it. Seems ok. Pads in, wheel in, off stand. Squeezed the lever and it goes right to the bar. There is fluid dripping off the rear disc. Investigate,. Inner piston seal has failed, fluid everywhere. Will replace caliper shortly. Just had to have a quiet walk around the block to recover.

[CmdrBiggles]

You really need to check this site out. He has spent a lot of time and effort testing lubes and chains.
https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/
He contradicts all of those dated anecdotes with up to date evidence.
It is easier, cleaner and quicker. Not going back to the old days of wet lube myself having tried it.

Pity about the drivers. Yep they can drag down a ride quickly. I am selective of where and when I ride at home, but harder to do when travelling. I'll probably do more gravel when away from home.

In your foregoing post you mentioned you hate bike maintenance. Well that is I think the reason you are waxing over lubing — a get it done and leave it at that approach. For me, the polar opposite is true; apart from the receding history of entertainment involving waxed chains and the aftermath telling me what is good and what is not so good, I am very much like gramps — I enjoy getting filthy with mechanical/electronic things and pulling things apart (after first familiarising myself if it is within my capabilities, then reassembling to-spec or above — just as he was a perfectionist, so am I.

No wet lube on my chain, just dry lube — evaporative carrier which leaves the whatchmacallit...

I have not wrapped handlebars in tape for 40 years [pic below, from 1984), and in my enthusiasm to finish it, I have kind of made an out-of-sync wrap on the left side, but hey, it is taut and slip-proof, super grippy, comfy and and above all else, looks very, very nice indeed.
(Pssst! Even IKEA doesn't have legs that good...! )

https://www.flickr.com/photos/200467233 ... ed-public/

[warthog1]

In your foregoing post you mentioned you hate bike maintenance. Well that is I think the reason you are waxing over lubing — a get it done and leave it at that approach. For me, the polar opposite is true; apart from the receding history of entertainment involving waxed chains and the aftermath telling me what is good and what is not so good, I am very much like gramps — I enjoy getting filthy with mechanical/electronic things and pulling things apart (after first familiarising myself if it is within my capabilities, then reassembling to-spec or above — just as he was a perfectionist, so am I.

No wet lube on my chain, just dry lube — evaporative carrier which leaves the whatchmacallit...

I have not wrapped handlebars in tape for 40 years [pic below, from 1984), and in my enthusiasm to finish it, I have kind of made an out-of-sync wrap on the left side, but hey, it is taut and slip-proof, super grippy, comfy and and above all else, looks very, very nice indeed.
(Pssst! Even IKEA doesn't have legs that good...! )

https://www.flickr.com/photos/200467233 ... ed-public/

Partly a get it done approach. Also it is cleaner, less friction and less wear. Less time spent cleaning, more riding and the parts last longer.
If you are relying on your experience from the 1980s using candles and who knows what to melt them you are uninformed about the results sorry.
Again, Zerofriction has done extensive wear testing and the results aren't even close between purpose designed chain wax and other forms of lubing.
Chuck em in the slow cooker, hang em to dry and bag em up.
Swap them out every 300k or so and then wax a few again.
I spent ages avoiding it despite reading how good it was. I was wrong. It aint that hard, in fact it is easier and it is better in multiple ways. Saves time and money.

[WyvernRH]

Will give it a go, once I find something solid and circular section [about 22 mm or slightly less]
Cheers

Broom handles have always worked well for me. They seem to be the right size.

Richard

[KeithH]

Continuing my TT bike renovation today. I serviced the front shifter, fed the new inner cables for the front and rear derailleurs through the down tube and replaced the cable outers. The front gear cable was starting to fray so I’m glad I changed it.
Tomorrow I’ll probably replace the brake cable inners and outers and start tuning the gears.

[elantra]

Will give it a go, once I find something solid and circular section [about 22 mm or slightly less]
Cheers

Broom handles have always worked well for me. They seem to be the right size.

Richard

Socket, or preferably impact socket, and socket extension bar?

Thanks for the suggestions, which were duly tried.

Alas no amount of hammering, swearing, cursing or whatever shifted the Quill stem.
The electrolytic bond between steel steerer tube and alloy quill stem has defeated me, as it has defeated plenty of other people over the years.

So it became time to admit defeat.
It only took a few minutes to cut the stem off just above the threaded end of the steerer.

If I want to I can now remove what’s left of the stem shaft with a power drill.
I have also seen videos of people using bleach/ sodium hydroxide solution to dissolve aluminium.
But it looks messy and potentially dangerous.

My thoughts are now firmer that modern threadless steerer and headset systems are better than the traditional Quill stem and threaded steerer tube system

[familyguy]

Second refit of rear hydro. Noticed a few drops of fluid after edition one, with a syill-spongy lever. Figured it was my crap barb setting. Did it all again. Bled it. Seems ok. Pads in, wheel in, off stand. Squeezed the lever and it goes right to the bar. There is fluid dripping off the rear disc. Investigate,. Inner piston seal has failed, fluid everywhere. Will replace caliper shortly. Just had to have a quiet walk around the block to recover.

I think I found the problem.



Quite a novel failure. Spare piston from the 505s is in place, reinstalled and working just fine now.

[foo on patrol]

Thought about getting a rear camera/light for the training bike and a medium 105 cage for the Scott Foil.

Foo

[stevenaaus]

...
My thoughts are now firmer that modern threadless steerer and headset systems are better than the traditional Quill stem and threaded steerer tube system

Hmmm... Big mess alright. Quill stems were fine for kids bikes - easy to adjust for various riders, and some designs are quite ascetic, but I've not much fondness for them on serious cycling.

[foo on patrol]

Just ordered a rear light camera (magic shine seeme 30) for my Wheeler or 29er and 12-32 cassette and 105 medium cage that will go onto my Scott Foil.

Foo