I'm a champion bike mechanic...

[Mr Purple]

And for those following my Checkpoint ALR creak saga the frame is officially a write-off as expected. Apparently the left handed bottom bracket cup was crossthreaded from factory - an assembly issue. Surprised it lasted that long.

Trying to wangle an SL/SLR upgrade somewhere along in the process, we'll see how that goes!

keep us updated.

Another warranty ALR5 frameset on the way from the US, apparently an upgrade wasn’t an option. Weirdly it looks to be ‘satin cobra blood’ which was never an colour option in Australia.

Could probably pivot and sell the bike with an unridden frame to trade up to something lighter but I think I’ll hold on until I’m in a position to go Di2 as well. Might do a carbon bar upgrade for the new assembly.

[jasonc]

And for those following my Checkpoint ALR creak saga the frame is officially a write-off as expected. Apparently the left handed bottom bracket cup was crossthreaded from factory - an assembly issue. Surprised it lasted that long.

Trying to wangle an SL/SLR upgrade somewhere along in the process, we'll see how that goes!

keep us updated.

Another warranty ALR5 frameset on the way from the US, apparently an upgrade wasn’t an option. Weirdly it looks to be ‘satin cobra blood’ which was never an colour option in Australia.

Could probably pivot and sell the bike with an unridden frame to trade up to something lighter but I think I’ll hold on until I’m in a position to go Di2 as well. Might do a carbon bar upgrade for the new assembly.

saw a di2 GRX gearset for $600 on bicycle market

[Mr Purple]

keep us updated.

Another warranty ALR5 frameset on the way from the US, apparently an upgrade wasn’t an option. Weirdly it looks to be ‘satin cobra blood’ which was never an colour option in Australia.

Could probably pivot and sell the bike with an unridden frame to trade up to something lighter but I think I’ll hold on until I’m in a position to go Di2 as well. Might do a carbon bar upgrade for the new assembly.

saw a di2 GRX gearset for $600 on bicycle market

Where? If you’ve got a link I’ll buy that! Thanks!

[jasonc]

saw a di2 GRX gearset for $600 on bicycle market

Where? If you’ve got a link I’ll buy that! Thanks!

sent you an email

[jasonc]

One for Duck. Looking at ordering a wheelset. Last time I ordered a set I got spoke holes in the rim. Would you have the holes? Advantages/disadvantages?

Cheers

[blizzard]

Not Duck, but I have had Light Bicycle wheels for almost 4 years with a solid rim bed and I don't regret it all. Makes tubeless setup much easier. It will cost you more (time / money) if you ever break a spoke or rebuild the wheel.

[jasonc]

I won't run these tubeless. I'm running gaffa tape as rim tape

[Duck!]

One for Duck. Looking at ordering a wheelset. Last time I ordered a set I got spoke holes in the rim. Would you have the holes? Advantages/disadvantages?

Cheers

Sealed rims (no inner spoke holes) are a royal pain in the bum if you ever need a spoke replaced. The only real advantage is that given tubeless rims & tyres are often a very snug fit, you don't have the extra effective diameter from the tape thickness that makes the fit even tighter. There are plenty of good tape options available - not necessarily marketed as being for tubeless setups - that completely seal holey rims, so there's no real disadvantage, and plenty of advantage to having holes.

[warthog1]

I have one set of Light Bicycle WR50 with no spoke holes
Sapim CX ray spokes with brass nipples on DT swiss hubs. They appear well built.
I am unconcerned about spoke failure. I am not heavy and don't run high tyre pressures. Tubeless and larger tyres.
Not any harder or easier to get the tyre on the rim than the other 4 sets of tubeless wheels I have. It is nice not to have rim tape as a potential source of air leaks in tubeless. Were I to buy another set of wheels that had the option to have holes or no holes in the rim bed I'd definitely choose no spoke holes again.
I am a tubeless convert though.
If you dont ride tubeless I dont really see the point.

[jasonc]

Thanks duck. That's what I thought but wanted to ask someone who actually knew what they were talking about

[warthog1]

Here is an informative piece that explains the relative strengths and weaknesses. They sell both so I don't see them as too biased either way. Also explains how they get the nipples to the spoke holes when there are no holes in the rim bed.

https://www.lightbicycle.com/newsletter ... OR-ME.html

[Duck!]

Have a proper read of their "alternative" non-magnetic threading method for sealed rims. Reply when you see the major flaw in that method.........

[warthog1]

Have a proper read of their "alternative" non-magnetic threading method for sealed rims. Reply when you see the major flaw in that method.........

Sure you will have plenty of cable stops left in the rim. I dont know how hard it is to hold the valve hole at the bottom and get the cable stop out. Use something magnetic screwed into the spoke end instead if it is that hard I guess. There is a 2 min video there that shows how to do it
However the point is I have had rim tape leak on tubeless rims. It is a pita. My rims are wider at 25mm int so I am currently running 28f and 30r. They dont need much pressure at my 75kg weight. Leaking rim tape is a far more common concern for me than broken spokes. I like the rims with no spoke holes for that reason.
That piece did reference them in the tubeless setting. They don't seem to hold the same advantage in the tubed setting

[Duck!]

The magnet method is not without the potential for dropped nipples inside the rim, but it's a relatively uncommon occurrence. Fishing 30+ ejected cable caps from the rim cavity, where due to the curve of the inner rim wall they fall below and beside the only exit hole is an exceptionally unpleasant prospect. The wider the rim, the worse the problem of getting them out!

Tubed or tubeless, holey rims have the potential for the rim tape to blow into the spoke holes under the pressure within the tyre and eventually split & cause internal punctures. Eliminating that potential failure mode is the only advantage of unholey rims for both tubed and tubeless setups.

[warthog1]

The magnet method is not without the potential for dropped nipples inside the rim, but it's a relatively uncommon occurrence. Fishing 30+ ejected cable caps from the rim cavity, where due to the curve of the inner rim wall they fall below and beside the only exit hole is an exceptionally unpleasant prospect. The wider the rim, the worse the problem of getting them out!

Tubed or tubeless, holey rims have the potential for the rim tape to blow into the spoke holes under the pressure within the tyre and eventually split & cause internal punctures. Eliminating that potential failure mode is the only advantage of unholey rims for both tubed and tubeless setups.

Fair enough I am not building the rims.
Yes if you were building wheels commercially using them I imagine it would be a pita.
They are purchased built with 24 spokes per hole. It would be fishing out one cable cap not 24 in the case of a broken spoke. I would use the magnet method as per the video.
I have had tubes puncture from rim tape once or twice in 20 years or so. I have also had tubeless leaks from it which are harder to diagnose also the do not tend to seal as they are up away from the sealant. Being up out of the sealant makes it very important the tape is intact and stays intact as tight tubeless trye beads move over it as tyres are replaced. I am very happy without it and given spoke breakage is a rare occurence for me the advantage outweighs the disadvantage.

[CmdrBiggles]

Here is an informative piece that explains the relative strengths and weaknesses. They sell both so I don't see them as too biased either way. Also explains how they get the nipples to the spoke holes when there are no holes in the rim bed.

https://www.lightbicycle.com/newsletter ... OR-ME.html

Being new to these new-fangled, tubeless wheels, that piece really fascinated me. But it raises a question: is there an automated process that does this for mass-produced wheels, or is it strictly (ahem) bespoke/hand-made? If a team techie is building say 15 sets of wheels, that's a hell of a lot of fiddling with spoke, holes, cables and whatnot.

Of the rims shown; I haven't seen what is under the CADEX tyres on my TCR!
I guess somewhere, at some time, I'll need to get down and dirty (and naughty with the vocabulary) and get to have a look. Repair will be easy: just bung in a tube and get going again.

Meanwhile, I replaced a broken presta valve locknut last Saturday (it had been tightened with pliers [GIANT/LBS??], causing it to split), and that was involved enough, replaced with very good Muc-Off valve locknuts.

[Duck!]

The Giant Cadex rims are normal holey ones. The 3M-made, Giant-packaged tape is pretty pretty good, although after it's been on for a while the main tape has an annoying habit of leaving the sticky layer behind when you need to peel it off to do a spoke.

[jasonc]

so looking for dt swiss special grease
looks like this has the same specifications
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/nul ... =SCA010708

it's NLGI 2

This lithium base grease with added PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene) will coat surfaces to increase performance whilst minimising wear.

sounds the same as the dt swiss stuff

[blizzard]

so looking for dt swiss special grease
looks like this has the same specifications
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/nul ... =SCA010708

it's NLGI 2

This lithium base grease with added PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene) will coat surfaces to increase performance whilst minimising wear.

sounds the same as the dt swiss stuff

I've got a tub of the Nulon heading to me and also have the DT Swiss special grease, I can compare them when I receive the Nulon. Pretty sure the DT Swiss stuff will be a lot lighter.

[jasonc]

there's this, but it's out of stock
https://au.element14.com/molykote/molyk ... dp/4226284

[CmdrBiggles]

There are many, many Li/PTFE N*2 grease compounds, some more specialised than is required for cycling.
I have a tube of Nulon's goo for general use on the car. Only a very, very tiny amount — usually brushed on, is required to be effective. Marine-grade grease is also worth looking at.

https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Cat ... C/p/134522

[jasonc]

So what I thought was my hub slightly sticking fitness out to be a flat spot caused by a bulge in the side wall. Thought it was the rim tape so replaced that to no avail. New tyre installed

[Andy01]

so looking for dt swiss special grease
looks like this has the same specifications
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/nul ... =SCA010708

it's NLGI 2

This lithium base grease with added PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene) will coat surfaces to increase performance whilst minimising wear.

sounds the same as the dt swiss stuff

I would be very surprised if there is anything "special" about the DT Swiss grease. At the very low rotational speeds of bicycle wheels (well under 800rpm, more like 400rpm), almost anything would do.

Try to keep the "soap" (ie. lithium in this case) the same because a different soap can occasionally cause minor metallurgical issues. Try to keep the NLGI number the same because it refers to the thickness or "heaviness/lightness" of the grease. Extra additives in lubricants are good as long as they are not just marketing BS (which is often the case, especially with cheaper brands).

Some greases have an inherent "stickiness" to them and these are good for high speed applications (not bike wheels) where rotational speeds are 5,000rpm +. This stickiness isn't really measured by the NLGI number, but not relevant here anyway.

[warthog1]

so looking for dt swiss special grease
looks like this has the same specifications
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/nul ... =SCA010708

it's NLGI 2

This lithium base grease with added PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene) will coat surfaces to increase performance whilst minimising wear.

sounds the same as the dt swiss stuff

I would be very surprised if there is anything "special" about the DT Swiss grease. At the very low rotational speeds of bicycle wheels (well under 800rpm, more like 400rpm), almost anything would do.

Try to keep the "soap" (ie. lithium in this case) the same because a different soap can occasionally cause minor metallurgical issues. Try to keep the NLGI number the same because it refers to the thickness or "heaviness/lightness" of the grease. Extra additives in lubricants are good as long as they are not just marketing BS (which is often the case, especially with cheaper brands).

Some greases have an inherent "stickiness" to them and these are good for high speed applications (not bike wheels) where rotational speeds are 5,000rpm +. This stickiness isn't really measured by the NLGI number, but not relevant here anyway.

Good post, thanks. I have some DT Swiss hubs so am interested. Hard to find specifics but I have found posts saying the DT Swiss special grease for star ratchets is ~ NLGI 0, so significantly less viscous or sticky I assume.

[jasonc]

I've read NGLI 2