I'm a champion bike mechanic...

[Mr Purple]

Brainstorming time. I have a loud 'click' on my GRX600 equipped Trek Checkpoint with 5000km on it.

Recently had it serviced by a quality mobile mechanic - old chain was toast (too much mud) and replaced, indexed everything, lubed everything an removed the crankset and inspected the bottle bracket. Disc bled and clearanced, replaced both pedals because I was upgrading to Look. Adjusted both front and rear derailleurs and indexed.

And yet the click I did all of this for is still there. Only on pushing significant watts (>300 or so), sitting position doesn't matter so it's not the seat - it sounds for all the world like a drivetrain click.

The mechanic dude is coming back at some stage because it annoys him as well, but any other suggestions? Completely silent up to the power threshold, then as loud as can be - so loud the bike's unrideable.

[warthog1]

Immediately makes you think bottom bracket. Pressfit? Threaded?
Otherwise pedals, are they tight? Through axles, handlebar stem at steerer and handlebar.
Seat post, cf paste or grease for aluminium in aluminium frame. Seat clamp.
All guesses, but hopefully the mechanic can sort it.

[jasonc]

Immediately makes you think bottom bracket. Pressfit? Threaded?

this was my thought too

[foo on patrol]

Have a mate that had a problem like this and it was a chain ring bolt not thight enough. We spent ages trying to figure it out, from looking at the pedals and cleats (Look) to seat, to handle bars, taking a foot out of each pedal and pedalling and then it was noticed that a chainring bolt was loose.

Foo

[jasonc]

Have a mate that had a problem like this and it was a chain ring bolt not thight enough. We spent ages trying to figure it out, from looking at the pedals and cleats (Look) to seat, to handle bars, taking a foot out of each pedal and pedalling and then it was noticed that a chainring bolt was loose.

Foo

good that you worked it out

[Mr Purple]

Immediately makes you think bottom bracket. Pressfit? Threaded?
Otherwise pedals, are they tight? Through axles, handlebar stem at steerer and handlebar.
Seat post, cf paste or grease for aluminium in aluminium frame. Seat clamp.
All guesses, but hopefully the mechanic can sort it.

Yes, I thought that too but that's the first thing he checked.

Seatpost (carbon) has been refitted and CF pasted, I swapped out both wheels and it was still there so it won't be the through axles, handlebar stem has been torqued correctly. As I said both pedals and cleats have been replaced and the noise is still there so it's not them either unfortunately.

Last time it was a loose cassette so I've rechecked that (and it was on the spare wheelset anyway so not that) and I've been caught on the crankset bolts before so it's not that. It's so blooming loud I can't believe the cause is not immediately obvious!

I am beginning to suspect something to do with the BB as well because otherwise I reckon I would have found it. It's a T47 Praxis threaded. Either that or I've cracked yet another aluminium frameset somewhere, though I can't find anything obvious.

[warthog1]

Yes, I thought that too but that's the first thing he checked.

Seatpost (carbon) has been refitted and CF pasted, I swapped out both wheels and it was still there so it won't be the through axles, handlebar stem has been torqued correctly. As I said both pedals and cleats have been replaced and the noise is still there so it's not them either unfortunately.

Last time it was a loose cassette so I've rechecked that (and it was on the spare wheelset anyway so not that) and I've been caught on the crankset bolts before so it's not that. It's so blooming loud I can't believe the cause is not immediately obvious!

I am beginning to suspect something to do with the BB as well because otherwise I reckon I would have found it. It's a T47 Praxis threaded. Either that or I've cracked yet another aluminium frameset somewhere, though I can't find anything obvious.

I have had a threaded bb make noise before. Reinstalled with geased threads and all good. I have heard of people getting the bottom bracket faced also.
Hopefully not another frame.

[Mr Purple]

I have had a threaded bb make noise before. Reinstalled with geased threads and all good. I have heard of people getting the bottom bracket faced also.
Hopefully not another frame.

The difference between this and my last two cracked aluminium frames is that this one's under warranty.

I wouldn't be too devastated!

[robbo mcs]

Brainstorming time. I have a loud 'click' on my GRX600 equipped Trek Checkpoint with 5000km on it.

Recently had it serviced by a quality mobile mechanic - old chain was toast (too much mud) and replaced, indexed everything, lubed everything an removed the crankset and inspected the bottle bracket. Disc bled and clearanced, replaced both pedals because I was upgrading to Look. Adjusted both front and rear derailleurs and indexed.

And yet the click I did all of this for is still there. Only on pushing significant watts (>300 or so), sitting position doesn't matter so it's not the seat - it sounds for all the world like a drivetrain click.

The mechanic dude is coming back at some stage because it annoys him as well, but any other suggestions? Completely silent up to the power threshold, then as loud as can be - so loud the bike's unrideable.

I just hate these, and unfortunately I've had my fair share of it on various bikes. Sometimes I just back off the power temporarily to make it stop, but I suspect that is not your modus operandi

Recently I had this problem, eliminated just about everything so figured it was the threaded bottom bracket. I took it to a mechanic, and he said he simply tightened the bottom bracket which was loose, only took a couple of minutes. Didn't even need to remove the cranks. Fixed it ... so far.

Another one I have had to add to your list is internal cabling clicking, especially rear hydrualic brake line if that passes close to the BB. Can move or flick when the frame is flexing slightly under power

[antigee]

never hit 300w but have managed random noises...had one last year that I was convinced was drive train...checked BB, Chain ring bolts, Pedal axles, cleats, Cassette spacer and lock ring and whilst putting wheel back on I noticed that the rear hub had cup and cone style locknuts - no idea why as sealed bearings/thru axle so I assume specific to the unbranded freehub any way I nipped up the cone nuts and every time I put down my (limited) power all was blissfully silent

[Mr Purple]

Recently I had this problem, eliminated just about everything so figured it was the threaded bottom bracket. I took it to a mechanic, and he said he simply tightened the bottom bracket which was loose, only took a couple of minutes. Didn't even need to remove the cranks. Fixed it ... so far.

Another one I have had to add to your list is internal cabling clicking, especially rear hydrualic brake line if that passes close to the BB. Can move or flick when the frame is flexing slightly under power

Something internal is a good thought - cable clicking could certainly be a culprit.

Based on how it appears I suspect something is flexing - it takes a bit of power to do it, and obviously two things are hitting together which should not be hitting together. Given it's an aluminium frame it's a) pretty loud and b) hard to work out exactly where it's coming from. The last time I had this issue with a bike it was the crankset bolts, so that was the first thing I checked. At least I've swapped so many things out that it's not the wheels, cassette or pedals!

[WyvernRH]

Brainstorming time. I have a loud 'click' on my GRX600 equipped Trek Checkpoint with 5000km on it.

Recently had it serviced by a quality mobile mechanic - old chain was toast (too much mud) and replaced, indexed everything, lubed everything an removed the crankset and inspected the bottle bracket. Disc bled and clearanced, replaced both pedals because I was upgrading to Look. Adjusted both front and rear derailleurs and indexed.

And yet the click I did all of this for is still there. Only on pushing significant watts (>300 or so), sitting position doesn't matter so it's not the seat - it sounds for all the world like a drivetrain click.

The mechanic dude is coming back at some stage because it annoys him as well, but any other suggestions? Completely silent up to the power threshold, then as loud as can be - so loud the bike's unrideable.

What sort of bottom bracket does that bike have? Might be a square bearing or cracked race?

Also check all chainring bolts are tight, just in case

Richard

[Mr Purple]

T47 Praxis, so nothing too disastrous.

Checking the chainring bolts was the first thing I did!

[Dodgy-Knee]

T47 Praxis, so nothing too disastrous.

Checking the chainring bolts was the first thing I did!

I had a super loud click on my Ridley carbon road bike. I had the BB checked and everything was ok but the click remained. I greased and lubed the whole Dura Ace group set plus replaced the chain but nothing fixed it. LBS was at a loss to explain it but I found the trouble accidentally while cleaning my bike. It turned out to be a worn rear hub bearing which got stuck as it rotated and sent the shockwave directly through the hub and into the frame ( being carbon, it resonated like all hell). I replaced the bearing and now it’s quiet as a mouse.

[Mr Purple]

I had a super loud click on my Ridley carbon road bike. I had the BB checked and everything was ok but the click remained. I greased and lubed the whole Dura Ace group set plus replaced the chain but nothing fixed it. LBS was at a loss to explain it but I found the trouble accidentally while cleaning my bike. It turned out to be a worn rear hub bearing which got stuck as it rotated and sent the shockwave directly through the hub and into the frame ( being carbon, it resonated like all hell). I replaced the bearing and now it’s quiet as a mouse.

Good thought but it won't be that because it's identical with my spare wheelset.

After 60km of 'creak, creak' I've convinced myself it's the bottom bracket and it's booked in with Trek during the week to sort it out. We'll see!

[Dodgy-Knee]

I had a super loud click on my Ridley carbon road bike. I had the BB checked and everything was ok but the click remained. I greased and lubed the whole Dura Ace group set plus replaced the chain but nothing fixed it. LBS was at a loss to explain it but I found the trouble accidentally while cleaning my bike. It turned out to be a worn rear hub bearing which got stuck as it rotated and sent the shockwave directly through the hub and into the frame ( being carbon, it resonated like all hell). I replaced the bearing and now it’s quiet as a mouse.

Good thought but it won't be that because it's identical with my spare wheelset.

After 60km of 'creak, creak' I've convinced myself it's the bottom bracket and it's booked in with Trek during the week to sort it out. We'll see!

Can you let us know what comes of this (good or bad)? … strange clicks and squeaks with no apparent cause have to be the worst type of bike problem… anyway, good luck and I’m sure everyone here hopes you get it sorted.

[Mr Purple]

Can you let us know what comes of this (good or bad)? … strange clicks and squeaks with no apparent cause have to be the worst type of bike problem… anyway, good luck and I’m sure everyone here hopes you get it sorted.

Well, the mechanic is there now and has been for almost three hours.

So far he's been to the point of removing the crankset and installing it on my road bike. He still doesn't know where the creak's coming from.

Glad to see it's not just me, though frustrating!

[Mr Purple]

And he still hasn't found it. Reckons it's bb shell related, which seems pretty likely to me as well.

Apparently we have to discuss it over the phone tomorrow, will be interesting to see what the solution is.

Just for once I'd like to break a bike in a way that someone highly experienced says 'I know exactly what this is and how to fix it'. Mine always tend to be 'this is a problem I've literally never seen before'.

[jasonc]

Well at least it has lifetime warranty. T47 was meant to be immune from all this

[Mr Purple]

Well at least it has lifetime warranty. T47 was meant to be immune from all this

From what I've read of the Trek T47 issues it almost seems inevitable.

I'm sure the conversation will be regarding whether to try to get Trek to fix/replace it or just replace with a one piece unit like a BBinflite. Not sure what the answer is to be honest, but when a bunch of different manufacturers make parts to fix your issue it suggests the original engineering wasn't up to snuff.

[CmdrBiggles]

And he still hasn't found it. Reckons it's bb shell related, which seems pretty likely to me as well.

Apparently we have to discuss it over the phone tomorrow, will be interesting to see what the solution is.

Just for once I'd like to break a bike in a way that someone highly experienced says 'I know exactly what this is and how to fix it'. Mine always tend to be 'this is a problem I've literally never seen before'.

If you feel the creak----creak through the pedals/crankset,it's in the drivetrain somewhere.
If it feels distant and detached, a cracked bottom bracket that is flexing? If it's a carbon frame, I presume a warranty will cover that.
If you hear it in your knees...ah, that's God's warning to slow down!

[Mr Purple]

Ah, I read his message wrong. He thinks the bb shell is broken - so a cracked (alloy) frameset. Back to Trek it is.

Given if that’s the case this will be my third written off alloy frameset within 18 months I think the universe is telling me to upgrade to carbon.

[am50em]

I have cracked an alloy frame and a carbon frame. Next frame will be titanium!

[Mr Purple]

I think if it is irredeemable I’ll see if I can upgrade to the carbon version under warranty. Less than 5000km on this frameset.

At least the Bowman Palace had 10,000km on it and the Avanti 20,000+.

[biker jk]

I have cracked an alloy frame and a carbon frame. Next frame will be titanium!

While I have over 60,000km on my Lynskey without a problem, a friend with the same frame had the chain stay crack at the weld to the bottom bracket after not many kms at all. Admittedly, it was easily repaired under warranty but titanium can crack just like any other material.