Replace all components on current frame - or buy a new touring bicycle?

[Wollemi]

I have an aluminium CX bicycle set up as a touring bicycle - I do like it for the 54cm frame seems very suited to me in height and length.
Have enjoyed cycling up, and down hilly Bells Line of Road (93km/h descending by the Botanic Gardens), as well as on fire trails in NPs. One bike does all.

But, it is a Compact. And I am old. I can't climb steep Old Bathurst Road (between Emu Heights and East Blaxland two days in a row).

Last week two bicycle shops in a regional city told me that many components are worn.
This is also what my LBS said a month ago, and showed me waggle in the brifters and RD.
I bought the bicycle 2nd-hand, as-new, and have done less than 5000km in 6 years.

Currently front 34-50 + rear 9-spd 11-32. I wish for a triple, so as to climb hills with front and rear pannier bags.
(I promise I won't do this on narrow BLoR, but rather more remote areas, and Victorian rail-trails.)

I was told a triple-crank is impossible to get.
To replace entire running set of CX 34-50 Compact, to a Gravel set-up of 31-46 front rings, and 11-spd, 11-40 cassette, I was quoted $1500.
The Albury store said many cyclists have done this - for they are very comfortable with the frame size - as I am with mine.

Worth doing (keeping current frame)?
One mate is appalled that all components are worn out in 5000km.
I am concerned that an 11 spd chain is not as strong as a 9 spd chain.

[Mr Purple]

No, I'd suggest it's not worth it.

And rather than a triple I recommend investigating a gravel bike with hydraulic brakes and 46/30 chainring.

Your fear of the 11 speed chain being weaker is definitely unfounded - it will make next to no difference. However to be honest a 10 speed will probably fit your case better anyway - Shimano GRX400 is excellent.

A Merida Silex 400 for example with an aluminium frameset will set you back somewhere in the area of $1800-1900 and you get hydraulic brakes and new everything else.

https://www.thebicyclecompany.com.au/me ... blue-black

Comes with an 11-34 cassette which is probably fine, but whack an 11-40 on there and you've got a low gear where you'll happily do 8km/hr. Honestly a triple just isn't worth it with today's rear cassette options and a gravel 2x.

[g-boaf]

I am concerned that an 11 spd chain is not as strong as a 9 spd chain.

This is probably one of those old stories. On a road bike with hard use I would typically see 6500km from 11 speed KMC X11SL chains.

Now I'm on 12 speed SRAM (with the odd looking SRAM Red 12 speed chain) and typically see 12,000km out of them. Even at that distance they haven't stretched and still run quietly and smooth but I figure that's a good run.

I would go 11 speed and use smaller chain-rings. on 12-speed SRAM I have 46-30 and 10-28 and that allows spinning up very steep hills. On 11 speed I've used 50-34 and 11-32 and that similarly allows to get up the big HC hills in France with some gears to spare in case of emergency.

Difference however is that I'm light and those are lighter bikes (6.5 to 7.8kg) and I am also fairly light. Only thing you do need to remember is to find rear derailleurs with the longer cage so you can fit the big cassettes (like 11-32), if you stuck with just road bike components. However CX stuff would avoid that requirement.

Triple is not really necessary nowadays but I'm sure someone will say otherwise, if they do then ignore whatever I've written.

[brumby33]

I was wondering if it'd be worthwhile looking around for maybe a good hybrid bike or MTB with the same/similar 3 x 9 gear set and either use that bike or steal the parts off it to do yours up....

3 x 9 isn't that old really, my 2016 Vivente touring bike has this set up 3 x 9 and works well and it wasn't till 2019 when Shimano decided not to make them anymore so there's still a chance that you could find a seldom ridden 3.9 set up but just be aware you need to look probably at no less than an Acera drive train and preferably a Deore set up.

It also depends on your handlebar set up where if you have drop bars with STi brifters or the quickshif MTB style shifters, again, look for something Acera or higher.

Otherwise you might have to go with the 2 x set ups.

or

time for new bike day

[WyvernRH]

Triple is not really necessary nowadays but I'm sure someone will say otherwise.

Yup, that would be me .
All depends how you like to arrange your gearing. Also, if I read correctly, on the gear setups you list above you don't get down to a one-to-one ratio for bottom gear. In touring terms you will need something lower than that unless you are a strong rider (which you seem to be).

My set-ups tend to have a closer range block at the back and I use the middle ring for general riding. Downhill, wind behind - use the big ring. Going up those big hills - use the small ring. If you pick sensible chainring sizes you don't need dinner plate cogs at the back. Basically, you have Normal, Overdrive and Underdrive and have smaller steps between gears (10-11 speed blocks help here too!).

My latest day-ride road bike build uses an MTB 42/32/22 triple to a 9 speed 11-26 block. Gives me high enough gear to spin along the rolling to steep country around here and a super low to drag me up the steep pinches on the dirt roads. I admit the top end gear could be a bit higher tho.

The bike shop is kidding you. Triples are definitely still available in both road and MTB versions - check online.

Having said all that, you can achieve a good touring setup on a two chainring or even one chainring setup with modern gears and large rear cogs, the jumps between gears will be a bit gappy tho. All depends how you want to ride and where.

Also, the buy new option may be cheaper whatever you do if you can find what you want, especially if you can get a well maintained second hand deal as parts are horribly expensive at the moment, let alone the labour cost if you are not doing it yourself.

Richard

[g-boaf]

What I've got (and what I'm riding at the moment ) I'm sure can go more than 10-28 but I don't really need it. I'm not that strong anymore, but fairly light.

Mind you bigger cassettes are available. And then in gravel options there are more still, like 46-30 with 11-34.

I haven't looked at what Shimano does but they'll surely have something else similar.

I'd be looking to go for whatever is future proof for a while longer so you don't have to worry about components that might end up no longer be available (or hard to find). I'm in that situation with another bike.

[baabaa]

I have an aluminium CX bicycle set up as a touring bicycle - I do like it for the 54cm frame seems very suited to me in height and length.
Have enjoyed cycling up, and down hilly Bells Line of Road (93km/h descending by the Botanic Gardens), as well as on fire trails in NPs. One bike does all.

But, it is a Compact. And I am old. I can't climb steep Old Bathurst Road (between Emu Heights and East Blaxland two days in a row).

Yup they be big hills and I not sure I fancy riding up them again soonish.

if your frame fits and suits and the wheels are still good to go suggest keeping it till it dies. CX bikes do have a short - ish chainstay length so = a shortish wheelbase with high bottom brackets which tend to make riding up hills feel better than going down..... Toring on a cx with framebags is not such a bad thing.
Touring bikes are often long wheelbase low bottom bracket things that are built to go in a long runs in a straight line.

Have you seen microshift stuff ?
If I was rebuilding any bike I would go the sword x2 group of moving bits and run as big a rear cluster that suits. Have a look at the options they offer
https://www.microshift.com/products/groups/sword/
It can be found in Aust via orgs like pushys and on ebay

I also like 3x but have settled on road type low geared 2x 10 speeds. I now use microshift stuff, it is simple and it just works way better than what I need. I am tending to swap my microshift parts onto the bikes I ride more often as now find using shimano (and trying to find spare parts) way to complex and frustrating in what goes with what and generally what wont work with what. Oh, I still use mech disk brakes and they suit me fine so no hurry to change and microshift parts are still focused on mech disc and rim brakes

A fresh set of microshift sword parts should suit moving to a new frame if and when you need it.

[warthog1]

It is titled a touring bike thread. In that context, ie loaded up, I can see the need for very low gearing like a triple may allow.
Also agree gravel gearing my serve the purpose. My GRX810 rd will apparently allow a 40t rear cassette. Combine that with a 46/30 chainset and you have a nice low gear.
I imagine MTB setups will allow even lower.

Never done any heavily loaded touring though, so take it with a pinch of salt.

[Thoglette]

I was told a triple-crank is impossible to get.

Whoever told you that is either lying, lazy or incompetent. Or some combination of the above.

Even Shimano still makes them.

(For starters, fire up the commuter cycles website and follow your nose from there).

Now, whether a CX frame is what you want is a whole ‘nother question, to use an Americanism.

Typically CX frames have quickish geometry with no room for mudguards and luggage.

[brumby33]

I was told a triple-crank is impossible to get.

Whoever told you that is either lying, lazy or incompetent. Or some combination of the above.

Even Shimano still makes them.

(For starters, fire up the commuter cycles website and follow your nose from there).

Now, whether a CX frame is what you want is a whole ‘nother question, to use an Americanism.

Typically CX frames have quickish geometry with no room for mudguards and luggage.

The only 3 x set on that Commuter page is a Shimano Alivio FC-T4060 3×9 Speed Crankset and it's out of stock.....question is: Is it still available to order, all the rest are single cog or 2 cog chainwheel sets.

I think the 3 x is all but dead and the bike parts makers are more interested in the 2 x or the 1 x set-ups as seen on Gravel and MTBs which are the biggest sellers. You got to any bikeshop today and you'll be hard pressed to find any 3 x set ups except the el-cheapo end on the kids MTB market.

I still find it hard to believe that derailers can actually throw a chain on those huge 50 teeth cogs at the back......they are massive clusters.

[Thoglette]

You got to any bikeshop today …

And you’ll be asked “Coke or Pepsi?”, as if that were a choice.

And that’s only if you’re lucky: round hereabouts most of the bike-shops are branded-shops. So you can have anything you like, as long as is something the brand wants to sell to you.

The quote was that “triple crank is impossible to get”. It’s not. It’s not even close, it’s still (almost) current range Shimano.

Now Shimano do want to “reduce bike shop inventory” and are replacing everything below Sora with “Cues”.

Which, amongst other things, currently doesn’t seem to have a triple. Nor dynohubs, nor a huge range of other stuff Shimano make (made?). Are they abandoning all of that as “unprofitable”? Or is this a geo-locked strategy. All good questions for another thread but the minnows will step in: Rivbike, VeloOrange and ReneHerse all had triples last time I looked.

[antigee]

if you find the frame works well for you my vote would be stick with it but I run bikes that aren't this years models and done a lot of odd set ups including triples with road shifters / mtb gearing because I like hills but are a bit older

triples are around but getting rare are you running with disk or rim brakes? What are current shifters?

if rim then something like Shimano Sora would get you a 9 speed triple for around $800 worth of parts
Sora 3x9spd crankset $200
Sora lever set $300
Rear Mech $65
Front Mech $60
Cassette $45
Bottom Bracket $30
Chain $30
Cables and outers $50?
Tape $40?

(I looked at Bikebug as they do a pretty good range of Shimano parts / other are available)
if you want to get excited looking at triples and touring then Spa Cycles in the UK is good place to start [pom] used to be local to a place I worked and great to see still in business [/pom]
though shipping/possible customs needs adding:

https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m8b0s109p0/ ... /Chainsets

and my opinion (as a non pro mechanic) is fitting a whole new groupset isn't like problem solving its a few hours I guess so all in maybe bit less than $1500

assuming rim wear on wheels is OK if not then its a tougher call 2 x and 1x work and I like hydraulic brakes!

[brumby33]

You got to any bikeshop today …

And you’ll be asked “Coke or Pepsi?”, as if that were a choice.

And that’s only if you’re lucky: round hereabouts most of the bike-shops are branded-shops. So you can have anything you like, as long as is something the brand wants to sell to you.

The quote was that “triple crank is impossible to get”. It’s not. It’s not even close, it’s still (almost) current range Shimano.

Now Shimano do want to “reduce bike shop inventory” and are replacing everything below Sora with “Cues”.

Which, amongst other things, currently doesn’t seem to have a triple. Nor dynohubs, nor a huge range of other stuff Shimano make (made?). Are they abandoning all of that as “unprofitable”? Or is this a geo-locked strategy. All good questions for another thread but the minnows will step in: Rivbike, VeloOrange and ReneHerse all had triples last time I looked.

Here in Albury, we only have 2 bike dealers now, there were 3 but just before i moved here, the Specialized bike shop closed down but i have heard he works from a private address but never have bothered to chase him up.
One bike shop Station Cycles is a Giant, LIV, Rocky Mountain and Norco dealer and is very much tilted towards Mountain bikes that seems to be the flavour here as there is a strong MTB club area that rides the Nail Can hill area but even just about all kids ride MTBs and pretty much nothing else, then we have the Trek Dealer who deals only with Trek bikes, again MTB bias but more in the Gravel bikes than the other shop. I was there just last week in both and was talking about the gearing on modern bikes as opposed to my 3 x 9 on the Vivente and he simply told me that they are basically finished and the guys in the workshop confirmed. I think though you can still get the 10 speed cluster to go with the 3 x chainwheels. Dynos are still a thing though.
Post Covid has changed a lot of things in the Cycling world, not only bikes are so much more expensive than they were before covid probably because most bike shops were wiped out from stock and it was costlier to get them back in the country due to many reasons including much more expensive shipping. I don't think Bicycles except perhaps the E-Bikes were affected by the scarce Micro-chips. Shipping I believe is still expensive because of the wars and oil supplies for fuel and blatant price gauging.
I think you will find a lot of advancement in the bicycle industry in around 2025 onwards in equipment standards in particular with the transmissions, I've heard perhaps more hub geared bikes and even auto change gearing. Perhaps in the not so distant future, derailer gearing could be on the way out.
I'd love to have a ride of a Pinion geared bike, they are quite popular in the higher end bikes in both Europe and the US, Yes, there's a weight gain but there's also a gain in low to no maintenance. I enjoy to see what's trending.

cheers Brumby33

[nickobec]

Last week two bicycle shops in a regional city told me that many components are worn.
This is also what my LBS said a month ago, and showed me waggle in the brifters and RD.
I bought the bicycle 2nd-hand, as-new, and have done less than 5000km in 6 years.

The question is why are the components worn out after 5000km or so. Does not matter if you replace components or buy new, in 5000km you will need to do it again, unless you take action.

How often do you clean/re-lube your chain?
When did you last replace your chain?

A worn chain, will quickly destroy a cassette, chain rings, rear derailleur pulley wheels etc. Brifters on the other hand, I have put 30,000km into second hand set that had a hard racing life and still as good as new.

Options as I see it.
1. If you are willing to learn the ins and outs of bike mechanics, rebuild the old bike yourself. Cost including buying tools and components, probably $1000.
2. Replace you old bike with a new gravel bike 2x with 46/30 and 11-34 and hydraulic disc brakes and learn basic maintenance such as cleaning/re-lubing a chain and buy a chain checker.

[Mike Ayling]

Take out a second or third mortgage and splurge $6,800 on a Vivente with Rohloff and belt drive. Comes with racks, dynohub lighting, mudguards. Choice of flat bar or drops.No more replacing chains, belt said to last 30,000km, cassettes.
The Rohloff pulls cable for both upshifts and downshifts so no more continually having to adjust those pesky derailleur cables.

[LateStarter]

Have you seen microshift stuff ?
If I was rebuilding any bike I would go the sword x2 group of moving bits and run as big a rear cluster that suits. Have a look at the options they offer
https://www.microshift.com/products/groups/sword/
It can be found in Aust via orgs like pushys and on ebay

Damn you BaaBaa. my "good" bike, Lynskey (48-36-24 triple & 12-36), is showing signs of tiredness after 50,000k, earlier in its life it was 2x10 (46-30 & 11-36) but the lowest wasn't low enough at times, so it became a 9 speed triple. Have been contemplating GRX but $1500++ is too much and seemingly made of unobtainium and I don't really want hydraulic brakes so had put that aside too but now you tempt me with Microshift Sword.

Pushy / Bikebug don't seem to have a full set of components or Groupset, KWT seem to be the distributor and do list full components but no "groupset" price but looks like a set of bits would be around $700 and Omafiets will put it together for a couple of hundred.

Only doubt is that a 11-38 cassette with the 46-29 rings is still a little more than my old legs would like, they have 11-40 or 11-42 cassettes in the "G" or "H" series but sword RDs say max 38? I also read that the rings are asymmetric and if I believe the absoluteblack claims I get 10% more power so maybe not a problem !!??, though a 11-40 or 11-42 would be nice, will have to ask Microshift.

And them I have to decide on crank length, have 170 on Lynskey but some toe overlap on tight turns, have used 172.5 & 175 various bikes with longer wheelbase but "wisdom" seems to push for less these days. 165?

Will have to get the bikes together for a discussion

[brumby33]

Take out a second or third mortgage and splurge $6,800 on a Vivente with Rohloff and belt drive. Comes with racks, dynohub lighting, mudguards. Choice of flat bar or drops.No more replacing chains, belt said to last 30,000km, cassettes.
The Rohloff pulls cable for both upshifts and downshifts so no more continually having to adjust those pesky derailleur cables.

I totally agree Mike, when you see the price of slightly above average Gravel Bikes (over $5K), the Vivente with Rohloff and Gates belt drive is actually great value.
And there's 2 styles you can get them made for, Noel will build you one to your liking with either 700C wheels and 40mm tyres or 27.5 wheels and 2.80" trekking style done up like a Bikepacking bike.

I've actually seen an earlier model derailer Deccan Vivente done up with wide MTB tyres and all the bikepacking bags and i would say it was as good as any brand I've seen.

I'm seriously considering going down this route when I decide to sell my Motorcycle in a couple of years and I'll be able to buy one cash. Theres also quite a few optional extras you can buy too depending on set-up.

I'm thinking of selling the Vivente Patagonia eventually due to the fact the traditional 3 x 9 parts will be no longer available and that is what prompted Noel to ditch the derailer level bikes altogether.

regards

brumby33

[WyvernRH]

I'm thinking of selling the Vivente Patagonia eventually due to the fact the traditional 3 x 9 parts will be no longer available and that is what prompted Noel to ditch the derailer level bikes altogether.

regards

brumby33

A new bike is always nice...
But you could move to ten or 11 speed at the back and get some Microshift (or similar) 10/11 brifters to match. These would drive your existing front derailleur no problem. I doubt that it would be worn out? If your rear derailleur is stuffed there are plenty of Shimano pre-activation change NOS derailleurs out there or just use SunRace.
OR stick with 9 speed and go totally MicroShift. My Mouvasi carbon road bike is totally non-Shimano 9 speed kit - works fine.

Not sure what brakes you have. If you desire disks and don't have them then that's a whole different story

You can still make things work that Shimano and SRAM don't want you to have, just takes a bit of ingenuity.

As an aside I went looking for Triple chainsets on the web and there were a lot of Shimano (maybe NOS stuff?) available in Road and MTB, FSA had several and the ever-reliable SunRace had a few.

Dying maybe but not dead yet. Wait a while and it will all be in fashion again.

Richard

[LateStarter]

Take out a second or third mortgage and splurge $6,800 on a Vivente with Rohloff and belt drive. Comes with racks, dynohub lighting, mudguards. Choice of flat bar or drops.No more replacing chains, belt said to last 30,000km, cassettes.
The Rohloff pulls cable for both upshifts and downshifts so no more continually having to adjust those pesky derailleur cables.

I totally agree Mike, when you see the price of slightly above average Gravel Bikes (over $5K), the Vivente with Rohloff and Gates belt drive is actually great value.
I'm thinking of selling the Vivente Patagonia eventually ....

My Vivente hasn't been out of the garage for ages, maybe years, it sits on the trainer sometimes but doesn't look very happy, the oft deferred "downsizing" is going to mean at least one of the bikes will have to go and the vivente is used the least. Stripped of its racks and heavy marathons it did my first 20 or so Audax 200s but never did get to "tour" much on it.

[warthog1]

Take out a second or third mortgage and splurge $6,800 on a Vivente with Rohloff and belt drive. Comes with racks, dynohub lighting, mudguards. Choice of flat bar or drops.No more replacing chains, belt said to last 30,000km, cassettes.
The Rohloff pulls cable for both upshifts and downshifts so no more continually having to adjust those pesky derailleur cables.

I totally agree Mike, when you see the price of slightly above average Gravel Bikes (over $5K), the Vivente with Rohloff and Gates belt drive is actually great value.
And there's 2 styles you can get them made for, Noel will build you one to your liking with either 700C wheels and 40mm tyres or 27.5 wheels and 2.80" trekking style done up like a Bikepacking bike.

I've actually seen an earlier model derailer Deccan Vivente done up with wide MTB tyres and all the bikepacking bags and i would say it was as good as any brand I've seen.

I'm seriously considering going down this route when I decide to sell my Motorcycle in a couple of years and I'll be able to buy one cash. Theres also quite a few optional extras you can buy too depending on set-up.

I'm thinking of selling the Vivente Patagonia eventually due to the fact the traditional 3 x 9 parts will be no longer available and that is what prompted Noel to ditch the derailer level bikes altogether.

regards

brumby33

Depending on use I disagree.
My Giant Revolt cost $3250. I have since spent more on new wheels but it is so much more versatile for my use than a Vivente.
The Revolt is going to be faster everywhere and has a low gear of 32/36. Could make that 32/40 if I chose.
The top gear of 48/11 will spin out to 60kmh.
If I was to have one bike that would be it.

[Thoglette]

I'm thinking of selling the Vivente Patagonia eventually due to the fact the traditional 3 x 9 parts will be no longer available.

I’m still running 27” rims and tyres on my Randonneur. And cantis.

When I can’t find them then 3x9 might be next for the endangered list.

[brumby33]

Take out a second or third mortgage and splurge $6,800 on a Vivente with Rohloff and belt drive. Comes with racks, dynohub lighting, mudguards. Choice of flat bar or drops.No more replacing chains, belt said to last 30,000km, cassettes.
The Rohloff pulls cable for both upshifts and downshifts so no more continually having to adjust those pesky derailleur cables.

I totally agree Mike, when you see the price of slightly above average Gravel Bikes (over $5K), the Vivente with Rohloff and Gates belt drive is actually great value.
And there's 2 styles you can get them made for, Noel will build you one to your liking with either 700C wheels and 40mm tyres or 27.5 wheels and 2.80" trekking style done up like a Bikepacking bike.

I've actually seen an earlier model derailer Deccan Vivente done up with wide MTB tyres and all the bikepacking bags and i would say it was as good as any brand I've seen.

I'm seriously considering going down this route when I decide to sell my Motorcycle in a couple of years and I'll be able to buy one cash. Theres also quite a few optional extras you can buy too depending on set-up.

I'm thinking of selling the Vivente Patagonia eventually due to the fact the traditional 3 x 9 parts will be no longer available and that is what prompted Noel to ditch the derailer level bikes altogether.

regards

brumby33

Depending on use I disagree.
My Giant Revolt cost $3250. I have since spent more on new wheels but it is so much more versatile for my use than a Vivente.
The Revolt is going to be faster everywhere and has a low gear of 32/36. Could make that 32/40 if I chose.
The top gear of 48/11 will spin out to 60kmh.
If I was to have one bike that would be it.

Great if you wish to go fast, not all of us need or want to go fast, i prefer to get up hills without the need to jump off, each to their own, fitness levels etc.......really nice bike though, love the clean lines.

I'm thinking of selling the Vivente Patagonia eventually due to the fact the traditional 3 x 9 parts will be no longer available.

I’m still running 27” rims and tyres on my Randonneur. And cantis.

When I can’t find them then 3x9 might be next for the endangered list.

Yeah I'm still running the original DT Swiss 545 rims with the original Schwalbe Marathons on the Patagonia and the gears still seems to be in good nick, not that i've done high kms on it, since I've had the bike and tried to get my fitness back, something (work) else comes along to put a spanner in my fitness intentions the bike with me on it has only covered 1,600kms in 6 years.

Cheers

brumby33

[LG]

Interesting reading through this, makes me realise how much money can be saved by learning how to do your own mechanical work. I run 9 speed on my touring bike, main road bike and gravel bike. Touring bike is bar end shifters, MTB cranks (44-32-22), and MTB RD with 12-34 cassette (22-34 low gear). Gravel bike has tiagra brifters, compact cranks and MTB RD (32-34 low gear). Road bike has 105 shifters, compact cranks and XT RD (34-34 low gear). Point being, nothing wrong with 9 speed and mix/matching road and MTB parts up to 9 speed to get the gearing you want. Cheap, functional and reliable. Still plenty of replacement parts around, use 10 speed chainrings if you need.

I have a mate in a similar situation with a specialized tricross cyclo-cross bike he's ridden heaps since new with no maintenance undertaken. Bike shop said not worth fixing, you're better off buying this new bombtrack gravel bike for $2500 or so . Anyway with new chain, chainrings, cassette, headset and hub bearings it'll be good for another few years (about $200) in parts.

[warthog1]

Great if you wish to go fast, not all of us need or want to go fast, i prefer to get up hills without the need to jump off, each to their own, fitness levels etc.......really nice bike though, love the clean lines.

Let me put it a different way then, it is lighter and faster rolling. It will go up climbs more easily making the need to get off less likely. A 32/40, which it would run if you chose, is a walking speed gear.

No it is not for everyone and yes each to their own, but you don't need to spend a lot to have a versatile bike.

I hope you find something to get you back out there. It is very good for mental, as well as, physical health imo.

[foo on patrol]

Interesting reading through this, makes me realise how much money can be saved by learning how to do your own mechanical work. I run 9 speed on my touring bike, main road bike and gravel bike. Touring bike is bar end shifters, MTB cranks (44-32-22), and MTB RD with 12-34 cassette (22-34 low gear). Gravel bike has tiagra brifters, compact cranks and MTB RD (32-34 low gear). Road bike has 105 shifters, compact cranks and XT RD (34-34 low gear). Point being, nothing wrong with 9 speed and mix/matching road and MTB parts up to 9 speed to get the gearing you want. Cheap, functional and reliable. Still plenty of replacement parts around, use 10 speed chainrings if you need.

I have a mate in a similar situation with a specialized tricross cyclo-cross bike he's ridden heaps since new with no maintenance undertaken. Bike shop said not worth fixing, you're better off buying this new bombtrack gravel bike for $2500 or so . Anyway with new chain, chainrings, cassette, headset and hub bearings it'll be good for another few years (about $200) in parts.

Yep and why I'm reluctant too go to a bike shop without first having crack at doing anything myself.

Foo