Best groupset for road bike commute?

[nmelser]

Hi all,

I've recently had two ultegra 10 shifters fail on my old Cannondale 10 (2010 I think). Bike mechanics considered these old and expected for shifters of that age. I will replace them with older 10 speed shifter from a carbon bike I snapped (not going 2nd hand carbon for commuting again).

In the same week the 105 9 speed shifter on my very old trek 2200 (2001) also jammed up and is done. I feel like the 105 was much more durable and less fuss than the ultegra, but maybe it's just me.

My question relates to durability and what you all use to commute on your road bike. I'm going to search up another 2nd hand bike and wondered if I was mistaken in looking for ultegra components for my commuter and maybe 105 or even lower level groupsets are less fussy and easier to maintain. I love smooth gearing, but I maintain bikes myself and always found the 9 speed 105 components easier to manage. I ride all weather about 40km a day.

Thanks for your time.

[Derny Driver 2]

10 speed ultegra shifters had a nasty cable bend inside them which used to fray the cable end inside after just a few months. I had to change my cables every 3 months before they failed and the ball end got trapped inside. Pain in the rear end to get out. I agree 105 was better.
I wonder if you've considered going back to 8 speed for commuting. More than enough gears. There are heaps of the old reliable 8 speed 105 STI shifters around and you can use the Sunrace 8 speed clusters. $30 for 11-32/34 or whatever. One of the most reliable groups ever made I reckon.

[find_bruce]

Thanks DD I thought I used 8 speed cause I'm an old curmudgeon (still haven't seen the need to switch to brifters) but it helps that they're very reliable

[Derny Driver 2]

Thanks DD I thought I used 8 speed cause I'm an old curmudgeon (still haven't seen the need to switch to brifters) but it helps that they're very reliable

The 7 and 8 speed stuff just lives forever.
As you know I have about 50 steel bikes. I have about half a dozen with 8 speed Campag Chorus / Athena. Hands down my favourite ones to ride. Gee they ride nicely.

[DavidS]

I had 10 speed 105 on a flat bar, was still going when I retired the bike at 51K. Being a flat bar it had Tiagra shifters. I also have 10 speed SRAM Apex on a bike which has done 35K although the indexed bar end shifters wore out so I replaced them with friction shifters.

105 was certainly durable, not sure about brifters but 105 has always been a reliable and good groupset for me.

DS

[nmelser]

10 speed ultegra shifters had a nasty cable bend inside them which used to fray the cable end inside after just a few months. I had to change my cables every 3 months before they failed and the ball end got trapped inside. Pain in the rear end to get out. I agree 105 was better.
I wonder if you've considered going back to 8 speed for commuting. More than enough gears. There are heaps of the old reliable 8 speed 105 STI shifters around and you can use the Sunrace 8 speed clusters. $30 for 11-32/34 or whatever. One of the most reliable groups ever made I reckon.

Thanks, that's great advice. Glad it's not just me who had trouble with the ultegras. 8 speed would be fine. Where do you see the STI shifters around? I haven't come across them. Also, I hadn't heard of sunrace, are their components decent?

Finally, any opinion on the tiagra components for reliability? I've seen a few affordable 2nd handers but have always been snobbish about buying that gearset. Cheers.

[2wheels_mond]

One danger to keep in mind with older 8 and 9-speed STI levers is that lever hoods are no longer readily available for them.

If replacing with Tiagra levers, keep in mind that you'll need the older 4600 series levers (that have the cable sticking out the side), and not the newer 4700 levers (where the cable goes under the bars), as the pull ratios have changed and won't be compatible with your existing 10 speed derailleurs.

Tiagra 4600 works excellently, although I (and this is just me) am not a fan of the ergonomics or the looks. It will be a cheap way to keep going while keeping the rest of your componentry the same. You could also replace them with any Shimano 105 10 speed levers (either 5600 or 5700 series) - they come up second hand every so often.

Pretty much all Shimano groupsets are relatively easy to maintain - there's none that are inherently bad.

[nmelser]

One danger to keep in mind with older 8 and 9-speed STI levers is that lever hoods are no longer readily available for them.

If replacing with Tiagra levers, keep in mind that you'll need the older 4600 series levers (that have the cable sticking out the side), and not the newer 4700 levers (where the cable goes under the bars), as the pull ratios have changed and won't be compatible with your existing 10 speed derailleurs.

Pretty much all Shimano groupsets are relatively easy to maintain - there's none that are inherently bad.

Thanks, nice advice.

[Thoglette]

Thanks DD I thought I used 8 speed cause I'm an old curmudgeon (still haven't seen the need to switch to brifters) but it helps that they're very reliable

The 7 and 8 speed stuff just lives forever.
As you know I have about 50 steel bikes. I have about half a dozen with 8 speed Campag Chorus / Athena. Hands down my favourite ones to ride. Gee they ride nicely.

A third alternative is 8sp Shimano cassette/derailler and a 10sp Campy brifter.

The trick is to avoid the cheap "powershift" brifters, (which exist only to prove the Campy can actually make crap too) and get proper ergo power bodies. One can still (ok "could last year") buy complete new 10sp ergo brifter bodies: BYO brake levers and hoods.

[nmelser]

To replace the shifters on my 9 speed 105 bike, is the Microshift gear okay? They have 9 speed shifters which are apparently compatible. Or are there better alternatives? Also deciding between replacing just the shifter to switching bike to different 2nd hand groupset.

[antigee]

10 speed ultegra shifters had a nasty cable bend inside them which used to fray the cable end inside after just a few months. I had to change my cables every 3 months before they failed and the ball end got trapped inside. Pain in the rear end to get out. I agree 105 was better.
I wonder if you've considered going back to 8 speed for commuting. More than enough gears. There are heaps of the old reliable 8 speed 105 STI shifters around and you can use the Sunrace 8 speed clusters. $30 for 11-32/34 or whatever. One of the most reliable groups ever made I reckon.

Have this cable fraying issue with 105 11 speed as well ....entered up in diary to replace more often as been caught on holiday twice with this problem in recent years...I might be recalling incorrectly but seem to recall on an old cyclingtips podcast the issue was raised with some Shimano technical guy who responded something along the lines of "its no longer a problem we changed the cable spec to fix it"...I'd own up to buying odd cables cheap but on my most ridden bike I usually buy Shimano branded gear cables but they just get thrown in the spares box ...had a quick look and I don't see any date stamp on packaging

[Mr Purple]

I've had the same Shimano fraying issue with the previous model disc Ultegra and current GRX600 shifters. The bike shop reckons it's to due with the way the way the cable is curved sharply from the shifter to allow for the braking reservoir with the disc models.

I'd suggest it's unfixable. On three different framesets, two different groupsets, two internal and two externally wired I've consistently snapped a RD cable at almost exactly the 3000km mark every time. And that's over 25,000km or so. Always the decent Shimano cables as well. And now many frames run them internally they're not exactly easy to replace.

For a commuter I'd consider a rim braked 105 groupset depending on terrain. But for the sort of riding I do I'll be going disc DI2 as soon as feasible. Which I'm pretty sure was Shimano's plan.

[baabaa]

To replace the shifters on my 9 speed 105 bike, is the Microshift gear okay? They have 9 speed shifters which are apparently compatible. Or are there better alternatives? Also deciding between replacing just the shifter to switching bike to different 2nd hand groupset.

Big fan of all things microshift it just works and for commuting is way above what you need in stuff that functions and lasts. I stopped using shimano stuff as it is more or less impossible to get cheap parts to fix stuff as they change models so quickly - Guess most of bits are 6600 type crankset and 6700 series with some 6800 shifters ( but I do use bar end shifters with these)

Once you have the microshift parts in hand you can see that the quality is solid.
Just helped bought the daughter buy a new bomtrack as a commuter and it came with microshift x1 drivetrain and shimano hydro brakes - Think I will swap out the shimano brakes over to cable mech brakes so she can do all the maintenance stuff ( we do this by chatting with me over the phone.)

Also look at this for the future of shifters - you need to see the diagrams but it changes things for the better and I would expect these things would have a long life
https://growtac.com/en/2023/03/20/equal2023-taipei/

EQUAL Control Lever
This product is not on display at the Taipei Cycle Show 2023. Stay tuned for more information!

EQUAL is developing a free control lever (shift/brake lever). These are free and fun levers that are a world apart from conventional shift/brake levers. It allows you to combine parts without any restrictions such as manufacturer, group set, number of speeds, dropper seat post control, and so on.

EQUAL Control Lever is mechanical, not electric, but allows for free combinations. With up to three shift levers and two shift cables, a variety of things can be accomplished.


Prototype mounted on a bike (1x configuration)
Examples of what you can do
Stepless (no-Index) shifting control allows shifting from 2 to 13 gears
Personalized index plate manufacturing service for easy gear shifting
Any shifting parts can be used, whether road or MTB derailleurs. Internal shifting hubs can also be operated
Each derailleur can be operated with either hand; FD can be operated with the right hand and RD with the left hand
RD can be operated with both hands: right hand for shifting up and left hand for shifting down (paddle shift mode)
Dropper seat post operation, MTB fork suspension mode switching, etc. are also possible.
Shift levers can be freely combined, and unnecessary levers can be removed.
The internal shifting mechanism is also removable, so it can be used as a lightweight brake lever
There are so many ways to use it! You can use your existing gear shifting parts, make the shifting operation easy to use, realize mixed components, and create a free and enjoyable bicycle.

The weight is about 420g for the left and right pair. The hood is compact and comfortable to grip.



Versatility for modern bikes
Up to three shift levers can be mounted. Since the EQUAL Control Lever can operate up to two shift cables on each side, it can be used in a variety of ways depending on how it is used. Of course, unnecessary levers can be removed.

Examples of use

Dropper seat post operation
MTB fork suspension mode switching
RD operation using both hands (paddle shift mode)
Switching light direction between high and low beam


Mechanism for high compatibility
EQUAL Control lLever makes it possible to operate any derailleur through stepless shifting and customization of internal components. By replacing pulleys, the amount of shift cable pull can be adjusted to accommodate derailleur operation.

In addition, indexing function can be added by manufacturing and installing an indexing plate. It does not require severe shifting techniques and can be easily handled.



The winding pulley is the part that determines the amount of pull of the shift cable. By changing this pulley size, it is possible to make the operation compatible with various derailleurs.

Therefore, it is necessary to select a pulley that is appropriate for the derailleur and sprocket combination to be used.


Guide to choosing the right pulleys
The index plate is a part that can add an indexing function (click feeling) to the EQUAL Control Lever, which is a friction type (stepless type). By installing this part, it is possible to tell your finger how many gear shifts have been made, thus making shifting operation easier.

Through the Smart Factory (tentative name) ordering system, it is possible to order an index plate that is compatible with the derailleur and sprocket combination to be used.


Ergonomics
The hood has a sleek shape that makes it easy for fingers to reach the lever. Curved or flat surfaces are used depending on the location, aiming for a stable shape while reducing interference when gripping.


The brake lever adjuster allows for secure brake lever position adjustment.


Specifications
Assumed weight: approx. 420g (left and right pair)
Launch date in Japan: Scheduled for November-December 2023
Estimated price in Japan: Standard kit 50,000-60,000 yen (including tax) + option parts

A variety of EQUAL parts will be available in 2023. Please consider EQUAL for your own bicycle. We believe you will enjoy cycling even more than you do now!

[g-boaf]

For reliability I like electronic shifting. It just works all the time. You set it once and it remains that way until the chain, cassette or chain rings wear out.

I’m commuting for years and years using 11 or 12 speed SRAM E-tap, never an issue with either of them.

The 11 speed is rim brake, the 12 speed is disc brake.

The shifting is always reliable.

I also appreciate the braking of the S5 with disc brakes, I’ve had to use it a few times to avoid motorists doing silly things.