OK help please

[crog]

Story goes,

Was a pretty active member had number of bikes averaged around 5k a year at best. That's 15 years ago wirh 1 child and time. (Those who doubt can check my profile cant believe lasted that long)

Any way now 50 fat and literally have not touched a bike outside of kids bike build, maintenance etc.

To be honest achieved my around by in day, well Sorrento to Melbourne and Gong rides (Wollangong to Sydney rides) back then and new jobs and new kids etc saw bikes in shed.

Now 50 fat and starting out again. I have new job 10km commute short way or 15km flat long way in Melbourne south East.- Lyndhurst to Bangholm. I know a distance in past would have thought warm up.

So.
1. Second car getting ar*e
2. Going to commute 5 days, have back up bus/train option if issues
3. Setting myself goal 7500km in next financial year or 30km day

All that said I'm hoping to start with ebike as dedicated commute being that I'm 120 - 125kg and 188cm or 6 2 or thereabouts, roads no off road and flat.

I'm hoping for bottom bracket drive motor and preferably hub gears and belt drive for circa $5k. Suggestions?

This is my ideal but happy to go chain derailer route if better or my $5k is unrealistic. Ultimately might jump on old bikes when sorted and fit here or there but need a solid 24/7 backup.

Know bugger all about e bikes so need help

Suggestions? Shop? Links? Any help appreciated.

Crog

[Mozziediver]

Plenty of options at 5k.
I bought from Melb Electric in St Kilda, but nothing special. I bought mine during Covid and they had my size in stock.
Cost was about $3k for an older model, and a rello is happy with a Reid/ Shimano for $2.5k new.
Had a service done by Velocycles in Nth Fitzroy, and they seemed OK if pricey.
Dolomiti are close to me, but way too pricey IMHO.

More options with chain rather than belt, and easier to service. IGH or derailleur is not that important - you need about 7 or8 gears. Its much more important to choose the right cog for ebikes so good / easy changing is important.

Bear in mind that these things are heavy. Any hauling up steps etc is hard yakka. For that reason, if its for commuting, suspension forks are something I would avoid next bike I get. I like bottom bracket /mid drive but haven't tried the alternatives; mine is low end Bosch.
Brand of motor is important for parts and service. Bosch, Shimano have good reputation and Yamaha too. Others - ask here for user reports.

Options from Reid and Bicycles on line/Polygon brand are also options.

[crog]

Ta Moz, got a few weeks looking to kick off full time september Pending sale car so will dust off old bikes and do few prep rides.

Saw Dolomiti on line. Think I'll have to start scouring shops. I'm always concerned about battery do they have standard size / shape so in couple years not out of date. Thoughts on something like this

https://bikes.com.au/products/bi ... emerald

[rkelsen]

On road, 10km flat each way?

I'd say you'll get used to that pretty quickly.

Just dust off one of your old bikes and get on it!

[redsonic]

It sounds like the BMC Alpenchallenge would suit your needs. Not sure if they made it to Aus, and they aren't making them any more in the IGH format, but maybe you could find a new one still?



https://worldracycles.com/BMC-Alpenchal ... ybrid-Bike

[brumby33]

I think if I remember correctly your previous post you stated you had a couple of older MTBs or something in the shed.

At 50, that's not too old to reconsider a standard non-powered bicycle and I've been getting the best what you have serviced and do a couple of trial rides to and from your workplace to see how you go.
then maybe 6 Months down the track will give you time to do more research on a bike you'd like.

Now being a rather heavy and tall chap at over 120KGs, a decent MTB will handle that kind of weight or perhaps a decent used Touring bike. They are built to carry loads. You can buy non-powered brand new touring bicycles for mid 3K with up to date gearing etc. Theres a touring bike shop in Brunswick that has some great bikes. https://www.bing.com/search?q=brunswick ... e61d130ebd

If I had $5 grand to buy a bike, I'd invest in a E-Cargo bike, pretty much unbreakable but are heavy and can be used for a commuter, shopping, touring and just having a bit of fun but I'd go for unpowered first before you go the e-bike route. I have a touring bike, I love it, it's slow like me but it's strong, has integrated lights front and rear run off a dyno hub, Hydro brakes, has German Tubus Racks on it, 3 x 9 speed, I haven't had to get off and walk yet and I'm 63, slow, old and decrepit but I still refrain in going the e-bike route...maybe when I'm 70.

Unless you have a lot of hills around you, give a non-powered bike a go before investing that kind of money in a bike. for a 10km commute, allow 1 hour each way to be safe and gives you some refresh time.

Cheers

brumby33

[blizzard]

Personally, with a 10km minimum commute, I would opt for a derailleur system rather than belt drive and IGH, for the efficiency of the derailleur. I regularly commute 10km on a E-cargo and spend a large part of it above the 25km/h cut off, a belt drive would make that more difficult.

Good news is that almost every company makes mid-drive, derailleur commuter bike for $5k. For ebikes, I greatly prefer step-thru frames, these are much more practical for getting on and off with panniers or at lights.

[find_bruce]

I would highly recommend a mid mount for flexibility and seamless integration, but would be wary of using an e-bike with a mid motor & IGH, with the exception of a rohloff. Having owned a shimano Alfine 8 speed which struggled with the pathetic power I generate, adding an additional 250w is only going to make things worse.

We ended up with a Kad-e cargo bike. The high torque at low speed gives it impressive acceleration in stop-start commuting. While it's 9 speed, my wife rarely uses the full range of gears as the motor gives enormous flexibility.

Another e-bike I borrowed for a week trial was the Giant Fastroad - brilliant bike & quite nimble despite the weight - only time I noticed how heavy they are was when pushing it over a gutter or step. Main reason we didn't go with that was that while I liked the riding position, my wife didn't as there was too much weight on her wrists.

[Mike Ayling]

What are your old bikes in the shed?
Consider a retrofit on one of them?
Last October I bought a Merida 100 on run out at 99 Bikes for my 80th birthday and took it in to RevBike at Nunawading.
The instalation of a Bafang mid motor with a decent battery came out at about $2k.

[bychosis]

I know an e-bike is tempting, but can you kick off with a couple of commutes a week in a non-e-bike for a while to get your body back to riding before you go to 5/week or shell out $5k.

I recently restarted commuting. First few days I wished for an e-bike up the nasty climbs. However after a few more rides have decided that I spend too much time over the 25km/h when not on the hills to warrant the extra spend.

[Mozziediver]

Re; your question about batteries - my bike is a 2017 model and Bosch batteries are still available for it. It's a valid concern, and another reason to look at big name brands as these are usually better at supporting older models. Good batteries should last a decent time and max charge should not decline rapidly.

Suggestions have come from a number of people about non assisted biking. This is a good test, but try it on a non work day first. If you have shower/ change facilities then its a cheaper option. I didn't, and bought my ebike solely to avoid arriving hot and sweaty/ stinking of BO and offending myself and everyone I work with.

[crog]

Hi All Guys,
Thanks for feedback.
I'd love to build a Surely Steel Tourer or similar but just concerened fitness and others and thinking a those few watts may help.

For others I have:

1. Flat Bar started as Trek 4000 or similar, fram broke after few years and swapped to a Norco frame (my main commuter back in day with picks on profile) custom wheel set (Deep V's 36 laced to Deore Hubs) and 105 running gear, brooks Saddle etc. Was and probably still bullet prooff and looking to resurrect as been in shed so just a bit dusty. Was a great bike

2. Felt RXC sor similar Hardatil SRAM through out Hydrallic Brakes XT Rims etc. Again a good bike used to ride in the Victoria MTB park near home at lysterfield Lake again bike just Dusty.

Fear is fitness and like Ill clean these up but Im also thinking if I get a E Bike I can just jump on a bike get some help and do the 10K easily enough. Im selling car so will be all in . I just noticed NSW went to 500W do you see same changing in Vic? Also how does Pedal assist work with a hub drive?

Crog

[brumby33]

Mate, I'd be going for the Surly Build, you really don't need an e-bike if your joints are still ok and have no other issues medically, don't worry about being slow, just give yourself more time to commute, if you think it'll take half an hour, then take 45 minutes or more.

I have a Vivente Touring bike, it's a Hybrid style frame, has Dyno hub, lights and steel racks front and rear with mudguards but without panniers on the back it weighs exactly 14kgs, with panniers and handlebar bag I'm guessing around 17kgs. Panniers only carry my wet gear plus a combo lock and a small pump. The bike has 3 x 9 gears and it's rare for me to use the smallest front cog.

I'm 63, slow and decrepit so if I can do 20kms return, I think you should be able to as well. start with maybe 2 to 3 times per week then build up for the whole week.

Although I only have 6kms to work, it'll usually be once but sometimes twice a day once I can get rid of my bad head cold my Mrs kindly donated to me. I've ridden to work before and it has taken me about 18 minutes but I allow 30minutes.

I think you'll find whilst it may be a little heavy at first, a Touring bike with mudguards and racks and a couple of Panniers to keep some gear in will be the best commuter bike ever, they'll never break. Make sure you have Schwalbe Marathon plus tyres for puncture proof piece of mind and if you're getting the wheels built too, might be good to get a dyno hub with the front.

If you remember the mens bikes from the mid 70's, had everything on them, they were well built steel bikes usually only with 3 speed sturmy Archer gears, you could ride around the world on one of those buggers.

[skyblot]

I tend to disagree with those advocating to build a non-e-bike.

You're replacing a car with a bike, it needs to be easy transport whether you are feeling top of the world, or absolutely shattered. Incidental exercise will still be there, but without the overload. And no one says you must use the e-assist...

I'm contemplating a cargo bike, it will be e-assist. Not because I'm unfit and need it, but because I want it to be my first choice for errands. I've already sold my car, and I am seeing the limitations of the bikes I already have for the journey's I want to do. An e-cargo bike ticks a lot of boxes for me.

[brumby33]

I tend to disagree with those advocating to build a non-e-bike.

You're replacing a car with a bike, it needs to be easy transport whether you are feeling top of the world, or absolutely shattered. Incidental exercise will still be there, but without the overload. And no one says you must use the e-assist...

I'm contemplating a cargo bike, it will be e-assist. Not because I'm unfit and need it, but because I want it to be my first choice for errands. I've already sold my car, and I am seeing the limitations of the bikes I already have for the journey's I want to do. An e-cargo bike ticks a lot of boxes for me.

Yes if going down the E-Bike route, I'd too choose a cargo bike, they look so useful for carrying the groceries, kids and/or dog, however I'd prefer a Non-E bike tourer for general cycling to work and beyond (touring).

[blizzard]

I tend to disagree with those advocating to build a non-e-bike.

You're replacing a car with a bike, it needs to be easy transport whether you are feeling top of the world, or absolutely shattered. Incidental exercise will still be there, but without the overload. And no one says you must use the e-assist...

I'm contemplating a cargo bike, it will be e-assist. Not because I'm unfit and need it, but because I want it to be my first choice for errands. I've already sold my car, and I am seeing the limitations of the bikes I already have for the journey's I want to do. An e-cargo bike ticks a lot of boxes for me.

100% this, when I got an E-cargo bike, I find myself looking to use it for as many journey's as possible. 1) because its easy 2) because its fun 3) because it can carry most of what you would in a car.

An commuter E-bike would be much the same but with less carrying capacity than a cargo bike.

[rkelsen]

Mate, I'd be going for the Surly Build, you really don't need an e-bike if your joints are still ok and have no other issues medically, don't worry about being slow, just give yourself more time to commute, if you think it'll take half an hour, then take 45 minutes or more.

Yeah, I'd agree.

10km each way and flat... 6 months of that and you'll be adding diversions to the route because it's not long enough!

[AUbicycles]

E-cargobikes are fantastic but have limitations as well, usually more expensive and can be less practical that a ‘regular’ ebike. If the goal is commuting, taking a few things with dual pannier bags will let you take decent loads but with the flexibility to travel light.

A fully integrated ebike is better than a retrofit as all the bits fit together… so for commuting, go for a model with mudracks and lights.

If you have a hilly commute, an ebike can take some lioad off, but if it is fairly flat then you need to question the ebike… and consider starting with a bike you have to get a feel. Take it easy, get a feel for what you need and then when you are ready to take the plunge you will be close to the ideal bike.