I am looking for a new MTB or saddle

[Edward C.]

Hi everyone, I was just finished a 60 km ride with my road bike yesterday, now my hip is so sore. That’s why I have 2 thinking, get a new good saddle or even get a new MTB.

I am target on 2 models, Cannondale cross country Scalpel HT $3999 and Giant XTC $3799, they both are carbon frame. Has anyone had ride these 2 bikes before? My friend he has a aluminum cross country ( the bike is more than 10 years old) he can roll down from the stair in high speed. I am worry that if I can do same thing with crunchy carbon frame ???

By the way, any good saddle recommendation? Budget $200, I don’t think I can get a good saddle by try it before purchase, my existing one also very good in first 1.5 hours riding

Thanks.

[trailgumby]

Hi everyone, I was just finished a 60 km ride with my road bike yesterday, now my hip is so sore. That’s why I have 2 thinking, get a new good saddle or even get a new MTB.

'
If your hip is sore (as opposed to where your butt contacts the saddle) then it sounds like you have an issue with your position on the bike, possibly your saddle being too high causing your hips to roll. A good starting position is set the saddle height so that your leg is straight with the heel flat on the pedal. This will be in the right range (25-35 degree knee flexion) better than 2/3rds of the time.

On the bikes you mention, I have the current model Scalpel 29r Carbon 2 (ie dual suspension). Took me awhile to be comfortable with the idea of a carbon mountain bike, but after 10 years now I am sold. My first one did break when I got a stick caught in the rear wheel at speed and it broke the seat stay, but here's the thing: it's repairable. Same kind of techniques as surfboard repair. But with the bike being 8 years old I ended up taking an insurance payout and that was how I funded the upgrade to the current bike.

There's no issue with riding down stairs. The faster you go the smoother they are. I would recommend though that you get some kind of plastic film frame protection, mainly for the paint and gelcoat finish. I've taken some huge hits from fist size rocks and bigger being kicked up by the front tyre at speed where I thought I was going to find frame damage for sure. Not a mark.

The only downside from carbon wheels riding in loose rocky terrain like I have is they are prone to getting marked up, so I have a set of heavier alloy wheels for training, which make me work harder, which is kind of what you want for training anyway, keeping the carbon hoops for events.

Does that help?

[Edward C.]

I did bike fitting but my hip still sore, possibly I am too heavy. I think I need get a new good saddle, this is my only option

Hi everyone, I was just finished a 60 km ride with my road bike yesterday, now my hip is so sore. That’s why I have 2 thinking, get a new good saddle or even get a new MTB.

'
If your hip is sore (as opposed to where your butt contacts the saddle) then it sounds like you have an issue with your position on the bike, possibly your saddle being too high causing your hips to roll. A good starting position is set the saddle height so that your leg is straight with the heel flat on the pedal. This will be in the right range (25-35 degree knee flexion) better than 2/3rds of the time.

On the bikes you mention, I have the current model Scalpel 29r Carbon 2 (ie dual suspension). Took me awhile to be comfortable with the idea of a carbon mountain bike, but after 10 years now I am sold. My first one did break when I got a stick caught in the rear wheel at speed and it broke the seat stay, but here's the thing: it's repairable. Same kind of techniques as surfboard repair. But with the bike being 8 years old I ended up taking an insurance payout and that was how I funded the upgrade to the current bike.

There's no issue with riding down stairs. The faster you go the smoother they are. I would recommend though that you get some kind of plastic film frame protection, mainly for the paint and gelcoat finish. I've taken some huge hits from fist size rocks and bigger being kicked up by the front tyre at speed where I thought I was going to find frame damage for sure. Not a mark.

The only downside from carbon wheels riding in loose rocky terrain like I have is they are prone to getting marked up, so I have a set of heavier alloy wheels for training, which make me work harder, which is kind of what you want for training anyway, keeping the carbon hoops for events.

Does that help?

[am50em]

A saddle is very personal choice. I am 100kg and found Selle SMP Well saddles work for me on my road and MTB. But they need to be positioned just right. Some places have test saddles which would be best before spending money.

[trailgumby]

I did bike fitting but my hip still sore, possibly I am too heavy. I think I need get a new good saddle, this is my only option

There are bike fittings and there are bike fittings. Just plonking you on the saddle and eyeballing saddle height at the bike shop before rolling out the door will give you what you paid for - not very much.

Like I suspect you might have, I have some skeletal abnormalities. One leg is 5mm longer than the other, comprising a femur on one side longer by 8mm and a tibia 3mm longer on the other. My left ankle isn't straight either. Both of these plus fragile sacro-illiac joints and a 40 year career sitting on my arse in an office chair means I am what one therapist called "complex" when it comes to getting me comfortable and pain free on a bike.

The correct saddle is an important part of the solution, but it comes at the end, not the beginning. The beginning starts with your shoes and works up. When I go see my fitter, I typically book two hours, and 3 or more if it involves new shoes.

The important thing is that he only does bike fitting. That's it - he doesn't sell bikes. The only parts he sells are saddles, bars, stems, and cleat fittings like wedges and shims to get you properly positioned. So he knows what he's doing because if he doesn't get you a result he doesn't get paid (money back guarantee) and he doesn't get repeat business.

I think you would benefit from seeing someone like this.

[AUbicycles]

What is the current MTB. Hardtails can be a bit rougher on the body but there are still a few different things on any bike that will impact comfort.

I would argue that you can save a big of cash solving the problem rather than going to fast to a new bike (unless it us about happiness as well).

- Bike fit has been mentioned - shop bike fits are generally not as good as with a professional… but a pro bike fitter who just relies on maths and doesn’t take the next step of fitting a bike to you can leave you lacking.

- related to bike fit, a hip problem may something that may be solved elsewhere… so nailing this down will be worthwhile.

-fitness / conditioning can be forgotton sometimes. A new distance or intensity is a new stress and strengthening your body can be one step to releice somoe soreness and pain.

- sometimes softer / more compliant is not best. If I ride a soft saddle or a wonens saddle, they both give me the impression they they should be more confortable, but the opposite is true.

There are a few ways we may be able to provide sons specific feedback, for example with photos or s video of you from the side on the bike. This nay give an indication of ths riding position and may reveal some obvious improvements, but obviously this has a number of limitations.