Canyon Grizl announced.

[RonK]

I think I'm going to order one.

https://www.canyon.com/en-au/gravel-bik ... ure/grizl/

[g-boaf]

https://www.canyon.com/en-au/gravel-bik ... be=GN%2FBK

13 speed... And $7000. It has the same seatpost as my Ultimate CF Evo (the S15 version with more set-back).

[RonK]

Sold out of all sizes except XXS and the Women's version in 4 days.

https://www.canyon.com/en-au/gravel-bik ... /2968.html

My funds transfer didn't arrive in time to order.

More stock expected mid July according to Canyon.

[RonK]

Hmmmm, revisited the site last night to re-check some specifications, and it was open for orders again.

So - Grizl CF SLX 8 Di2 ordered, shipment expected late July.

[RonK]

[RonK]

Interesting - Canyon have announced the Grizl will be offered with SRAM Force XPLR eTap AXS, 12-speed and a Rock Shox Rudy Ultimate High-end suspension fork purpose-built for gravel riding, with lockout for on-road riding.

https://www.canyon.com/en-au/gravel-bi ... /2715.html

[MichaelB]

So Cannondale we’re way ahead of the game with the Slate !

Having ridden (and owned) a Slate and enjoying the GT hard tail with the Lefty, for the trails and off road that I ride, the little bit of suspension does make a difference. Even on the flat roads where there is a washboard surface.

Wonder what the weight difference is.

[RonK]

So Cannondale we’re way ahead of the game with the Slate !

Having ridden (and owned) a Slate and enjoying the GT hard tail with the Lefty, for the trails and off road that I ride, the little bit of suspension does make a difference. Even on the flat roads where there is a washboard surface.

Wonder what the weight difference is.

My CF SLX 8 Di2 Grizl is 8.7 kg vs 9.42 kg for the Sram/suspension version.

[Mr Purple]

Thought some of you might be interested to know there's now an aluminium Grizl.

https://www.canyon.com/en-au/gravel-bik ... l_AL_prio2

Prices are lineball with the alloy grail, weights a kg or so more which probably doesn't really matter too much in this segment.

I sort of want one. If only because I'm fairly sure I'm going to crash a lot, and it will probably be a bit more durable.

[RonK]

Thought some of you might be interested to know there's now an aluminium Grizl.

https://www.canyon.com/en-au/gravel-bik ... l_AL_prio2

Prices are lineball with the alloy grail, weights a kg or so more which probably doesn't really matter too much in this segment.

I sort of want one. If only because I'm fairly sure I'm going to crash a lot, and it will probably be a bit more durable.

Yes, got that in the mail. Just over 10kg, carbon fork and that VCLS seatpost - and good value for a quality bike too.

[warthog1]

Thought some of you might be interested to know there's now an aluminium Grizl.

https://www.canyon.com/en-au/gravel-bik ... l_AL_prio2

Prices are lineball with the alloy grail, weights a kg or so more which probably doesn't really matter too much in this segment.

I sort of want one. If only because I'm fairly sure I'm going to crash a lot, and it will probably be a bit more durable.

Depends on where you ride I guess.
I am doing some reasonably rough fire trails but no single track yet.
Pretty stable and confidence inspiring on my goer.
I am no bike handling guru but was a bit of a m/cycle hoon in my younger days.
I am just riding and a speed I feel comfortable with. Great fun and no cars!

Those Grizls look like a fine bike if you are heading that way though

[Mr Purple]

I'm only really considering aluminium or steel gravel bikes. For the 'falling off' reason, plus they're cheaper and I always figured I'll go faster if I'm not too worried about crashing it!

The tough call is whether to go with the more 'roady' style frameset such as the Grail given that's how I normally ride. The Grizl looks awesome and is a bit more upright with better tyre clearance, so it's horses for courses I suppose.

Having said that I'm always on the verge of going down a custom build rabbithole like I did with my roadbike. The Fairlight Secan and Mason Bokeh are currently looking tempting. Though it would be nice to for once hit 'buy now' and have delivery of an actual complete bike!

[warthog1]

I'm only really considering aluminium or steel gravel bikes. For the 'falling off' reason, plus they're cheaper and I always figured I'll go faster if I'm not too worried about crashing it!

The tough call is whether to go with the more 'roady' style frameset such as the Grail given that's how I normally ride. The Grizl looks awesome and is a bit more upright with better tyre clearance, so it's horses for courses I suppose.

Having said that I'm always on the verge of going down a custom build rabbithole like I did with my roadbike. The Fairlight Secan and Mason Bokeh are currently looking tempting. Though it would be nice to for once hit 'buy now' and have delivery of an actual complete bike!

Slightly higher and wider bars are a plus on a gravel bike in my limited experience.
My mate who ordered my bike sized me up as a large rather than a medium/large. According to the sizing chart I could have gone either. My TCR is a M/L.
Anyway it was the correct move. Less seat post exposed in the d fuse post that flexes.
Slightly wider and higher bars.
The bars are 460mm wide and I thought they'd be sh ite so wide.
He said to try them before changing as the width gives more control on rough descents.
He was right. I am in no hurry to change them now.
A bit of bar height and clearance for wider tyres is a plus imo. I'd get the more relaxed option.
It is different to riding on the road.

[Mr Purple]

I'd probably initially be more comfortable on a Grail but what's the point of buying a gravel bike if it's quite similar in geometry to your road bike?

The Canyon sizing charts have me a bit thrown - given I'm 172cm I'm between an XS and S. XS has a 541mm top tube similar to my road bike but I'm thinking the fact that it slopes makes it shorter and I'd be better off on the 562mm S.

I'm thinking I'll just go an S because it comes with 700C wheels. Plus I'm a bit offended at being called XS at 172cm. Germans!

[RonK]

I'd probably initially be more comfortable on a Grail but what's the point of buying a gravel bike if it's quite similar in geometry to your road bike?

The Canyon sizing charts have me a bit thrown - given I'm 172cm I'm between an XS and S. XS has a 541mm top tube similar to my road bike but I'm thinking the fact that it slopes makes it shorter and I'd be better off on the 562mm S.

I'm thinking I'll just go an S because it comes with 700C wheels. Plus I'm a bit offended at being called XS at 172cm. Germans!

Yes, I agree there is no sense replicating your road bike position. The Canyon size chart put me on a size smaller than usual, but the reach of the next size seemed too long so I went along with them and I'm glad I did.

If you decide on the larger size you need to be aware that the standard 80mm stem is already the shortest they offer, and with a 1 1/4" steerer there are few third party stems available, so if it turns out too long your options are limited.

[Mr Purple]

Now that you mention it looking at the reach I’d be XS. Feels a bit weird but I’ll try to get my head around it!

[robbo mcs]

Now that you mention it looking at the reach I’d be XS. Feels a bit weird but I’ll try to get my head around it!

I think if in doubt you are better going smaller. Don't forget that most gravel setups use slightly wider bar setups than would be used on a road bike of the same frame size. That makes the "reach" effectively a little longer in the real world, as you are reaching out further to the sides, as well as forwards, if you understand what I am saying.

[warthog1]

You need to ride both and decide it would appear.
My Giant TCR is a M/L
I run a 120mm stem and 42cm bars. Perfect fit, very happy with it. 23k km so far.
Just got a Giant Revolt. I was in between sizes upper end if M/L and lower end of L.
Either size would need to be ordered in.
I was advised to go a L. 100mm stem, 46cm bars. I am glad I did.
The bars are higher compared to the roadie so this reduces the reach.
The M/L would have had too much seat post extension. The seat post is designed to flex. I can feel it flex on the L. I reckon the M/L would be too flexible.

[Mr Purple]

Therein lies the problem with Canyon, I suppose! You can't exactly ride one before buying.

The Revolt also looks good. There are quite a few options around the $2-3k mark but a surprising number of them seem to have a fatal flaw; presumably to make you buy the next model up, usually terrible brakes or a non-clutched rear derailleur.

Entirely acceptable on a $1000-1500 bike but when you're getting around the $3k mark you don't want to immediately have to modify it.

[warthog1]

Therein lies the problem with Canyon, I suppose! You can't exactly ride one before buying.

The Revolt also looks good. There are quite a few options around the $2-3k mark but a surprising number of them seem to have a fatal flaw; presumably to make you buy the next model up, usually terrible brakes or a non-clutched rear derailleur.

Entirely acceptable on a $1000-1500 bike but when you're getting around the $3k mark you don't want to immediately have to modify it.

Yeah. I got mine for a bit over 3k.
Has grx800 derailleurs (clutched rear), 600 levers and 400 brake calipers. All work fine and wont be upgraded by me.
The wheels will eventually be replaced and the seat is gone.Thats it.

[Mr Purple]

Yep, that's all good spec.

A lot of the $2000-2500 options come with something silly like a Sora rear derailleur or TRP mechanical disc brakes. The base model Revolt comes with some weird mechanical/hydraulic hybrid brake setup which I'm fairly sure is carefully calculated to make people not buy it.

[Mububban]

Yep, that's all good spec.

A lot of the $2000-2500 options come with something silly like a Sora rear derailleur or TRP mechanical disc brakes. The base model Revolt comes with some weird mechanical/hydraulic hybrid brake setup which I'm fairly sure is carefully calculated to make people not buy it.

The only thing I dislike about it is the loss of bar space for lights etc.

It uses mechanical levers, so cheaper, and the cables pull the hydraulic cylinder so you get hydraulic braking without the more expensive levers. Works fine, just looks ugly and takes up space.

[robbo mcs]

Therein lies the problem with Canyon, I suppose! You can't exactly ride one before buying.

The Revolt also looks good. There are quite a few options around the $2-3k mark but a surprising number of them seem to have a fatal flaw; presumably to make you buy the next model up, usually terrible brakes or a non-clutched rear derailleur.

Entirely acceptable on a $1000-1500 bike but when you're getting around the $3k mark you don't want to immediately have to modify it.

Interestingly, my gravel bike has the grx groupset with clutched derailleur with on/off switch, and I have found I don't really need it to be honest. At first I was switching it off for a long road section. Sometimes I would forget to switch it back on, and not notice at all on rough sections. I find that even with it off, the spring tension is much higher than my ultegra road derailleur by comparison. I actually think the switch makes little difference.

[robbo mcs]

Yep, that's all good spec.

A lot of the $2000-2500 options come with something silly like a Sora rear derailleur or TRP mechanical disc brakes. The base model Revolt comes with some weird mechanical/hydraulic hybrid brake setup which I'm fairly sure is carefully calculated to make people not buy it.

The only thing I dislike about it is the loss of bar space for lights etc.

It uses mechanical levers, so cheaper, and the cables pull the hydraulic cylinder so you get hydraulic braking without the more expensive levers. Works fine, just looks ugly and takes up space.

That funky brake setup really interferes with fitment of some handlebar bag systems as well, which is strange outcome for what is marketed as a bikepacking type bike

[warthog1]

Interestingly, my gravel bike has the grx groupset with clutched derailleur with on/off switch, and I have found I don't really need it to be honest. At first I was switching it off for a long road section. Sometimes I would forget to switch it back on, and not notice at all on rough sections. I find that even with it off, the spring tension is much higher than my ultegra road derailleur by comparison. I actually think the switch makes little difference.

Mine also has a switch that is off.
I've only done 300k on it so far. Only had it a week.
Hasn't been on yet.
No chainslap probs so far.