Upgrade my $3400 carbon road bike

[AUbicycles]

To sell, you choose what the bike cones with. Changing wheels is easy… keep the wheels you like best.

Cheapest option is get the tools and watch youtube videos. Easiest option is with a bike shop. Smartest option is a friend with the tools and skill.

[g-boaf]

I am using Bryton computer not very good but ok, your one is too expensive for me:(

OP - Do another 1600kms and ask the same question again. Your perspective of the bike might be different.

This is the best response.

But a set of good grippy tyres won’t go wrong. A decent bike computer as well. I love the Garmin 1030 that I have. It is simple to use (touchscreen controls on a big screen) and the battery life is great.

That's where I got mine:
https://www.ryda.com.au/garmin-edge-103 ... e-computer
https://www.ryda.com.au/garmin-010-0206 ... e-computer

They are about the cheapest place for Garmin.

[Bentnose]

You could get some really nice cycling clothes and a comfy saddle for $1500 and that might make more of a difference.

[10speedsemiracer]

All, I am already target on Racing 3 and GP 500, cost around $860. Now I have a concern, after a few year if I want selling my bike on gumtree, I have to take off the racing 3 and put the original wheel back, can I do this action at bike shop while I do minor service without any extra charge? Because it’s hard job for me, the rear cog issue.
Thanks.

Yes.

Probably, maybe. Depends on the shop..

[Bentnose]

Changing the rear cassette is one of the easiest jobs on a bike, best to get the tools and learn how to do it yourself. Also can be useful to remove the cassette for
cleaning.

[Edward C.]

I have a bad experience mate
Before I buy this road bike, I ride $75 Kmart bike, it was really hard to put back the wheel, even front wheel but now I will consider to try.
Thanks.

Changing the rear cassette is one of the easiest jobs on a bike, best to get the tools and learn how to do it yourself. Also can be useful to remove the cassette for
cleaning.

[Duck!]

The biggest factor affecting the speed of a bike is the person powering it. Get yourself fitter and put the money toward something else. The bike in its current state is more than adequate for your current apparent ability. So just ride it.

[MichaelB]

The biggest factor affecting the speed of a bike is the person powering it. Get yourself fitter and put the money toward something else. The bike in its current state is more than adequate for your current apparent ability. So just ride it.

+1 - seriously think this is the best advice here to date.

[Duck!]

.... it's a case of keeping the bike well maintained and getting fit.

Fixed.

[Mububban]

I want lighter( =faster???) and more comfortable, my existing tyre is “Vittoria Zaffiro Pro Slick, 700 x 30c”, “ Fulcrum Racing 900 wheel 700c” and rim brake, I usually ride 20km per hour on weekend for exercise not race, I checked the Vitoria corsa price on Bike bug web site just only $120 per one, it will be big different to my exiting one????Thanks.

The Fulcrum 900 wheels are 1880g for rim brake.
Fulcrum Racing 3 is 1560g. You will feel a difference.

Switch from 30c to 28c or 25c, tyres will be lighter as well, but maybe less comfortable. Are you light or heavy?

If you can get some ~40mm carbon wheels like the Prime brand, they will be light and a bit aerodynamic as well.

[Edward C.]

I am 92 kg and 181cm tall, from the first day I ride my bike, I have set up the tyre 30c just for avoid stuck in ditch cover, do you think my weight suit to 25c tyre? If I buy a set of wheel and tyre for $800, I more concern if them easy selling on gumtree instead of stuck in ditch cover.
Thanks.

I want lighter( =faster???) and more comfortable, my existing tyre is “Vittoria Zaffiro Pro Slick, 700 x 30c”, “ Fulcrum Racing 900 wheel 700c” and rim brake, I usually ride 20km per hour on weekend for exercise not race, I checked the Vitoria corsa price on Bike bug web site just only $120 per one, it will be big different to my exiting one????Thanks.

The Fulcrum 900 wheels are 1880g for rim brake.
Fulcrum Racing 3 is 1560g. You will feel a difference.

Switch from 30c to 28c or 25c, tyres will be lighter as well, but maybe less comfortable. Are you light or heavy?

If you can get some ~40mm carbon wheels like the Prime brand, they will be light and a bit aerodynamic as well.

[LateStarter]

The biggest factor affecting the speed of a bike is the person powering it. Get yourself fitter and put the money toward something else. The bike in its current state is more than adequate for your current apparent ability. So just ride it.

Duck says it much better than I did, +1000

[MattyK]

The biggest factor affecting the speed of a bike is the person powering it. Get yourself fitter and put the money toward something else. The bike in its current state is more than adequate for your current apparent ability. So just ride it.

Duck says it much better than I did, +1000

Just because it won't necessarily make a difference to his performance doesn't mean that an upgrade can't be appreciated, noticed and enjoyed. Otherwise there would only be about four people in the world allowed to own a Ferrari.

If it floats your boat, and you have the disposable income, go for it.

Also, just an anecdote on wheel weight, I went from a 2200g set to a 1500g set and can't say I really noticed a significant weight difference. Rolling performance and downhills yes (they are slightly more aero but not much), but not a tactile feedback going uphill (though they might be slightly faster on the clock). So I doubt you'd notice 300g.

[AndrewCowley]

The lighter wheels will spin up faster, which will make the bike seem more responsive. Doesn't really make you faster because the average ride isn't full of 1000's of stops and starts. But it does feel nicer.

[g-boaf]

The biggest factor affecting the speed of a bike is the person powering it. Get yourself fitter and put the money toward something else. The bike in its current state is more than adequate for your current apparent ability. So just ride it.

+1 - seriously think this is the best advice here to date.

Not just the best advice, but it's way more satisfying to be able to ride fast and do it without destroying yourself.

[warthog1]

Just because it won't necessarily make a difference to his performance doesn't mean that an upgrade can't be appreciated, noticed and enjoyed. Otherwise there would only be about four people in the world allowed to own a Ferrari.

If it floats your boat, and you have the disposable income, go for it.

Agreed.
Don't disagree that improving fitness will make more improvement.
However a new set of wheels/tyres may well provide even more motivation to ride.
We enjoy riding so it doesnt hurt to indulge that passion sometimes.

[cyclingnolycra]

I am 92 kg and 181cm tall, from the first day I ride my bike, I have set up the tyre 30c just for avoid stuck in ditch cover, do you think my weight suit to 25c tyre? If I buy a set of wheel and tyre for $800, I more concern if them easy selling on gumtree instead of stuck in ditch cover.
Thanks.

I want lighter( =faster???) and more comfortable, my existing tyre is “Vittoria Zaffiro Pro Slick, 700 x 30c”, “ Fulcrum Racing 900 wheel 700c” and rim brake, I usually ride 20km per hour on weekend for exercise not race, I checked the Vitoria corsa price on Bike bug web site just only $120 per one, it will be big different to my exiting one????Thanks.

The Fulcrum 900 wheels are 1880g for rim brake.
Fulcrum Racing 3 is 1560g. You will feel a difference.

Switch from 30c to 28c or 25c, tyres will be lighter as well, but maybe less comfortable. Are you light or heavy?

If you can get some ~40mm carbon wheels like the Prime brand, they will be light and a bit aerodynamic as well.

At your weight I think you should stick to 28mm, but I find pressures much above 85psi a bit uncomfortable.
If I were you I'd probably just get better tyres, gp5000 28mm and be done with it.
Unless you are very muscular it sounds like you could lose a few kg, which is a much bigger upgrade than losing 400g off your wheelset. I think it'd be better down the track to get a more aerodynamic wheel, the weight savings are a bit moot for bigger guys like you.
Maybe set a fitness goal for yourself, and when you hit it, use it as a reason to upgrade something!

[Thoglette]

I am 92 kg and 181cm tall, from the first day I ride my bike, I have set up the tyre 30c just for avoid stuck in ditch cover, do you think

At your weight I think you should stick to 28mm, but I find pressures much above 85psi a bit uncomfortable.

There's a quote from John Elliot that's appropriate here.

Even if you actually want to go faster as opposed to enjoying the ride

FWIW I'm 20kg lighter and have run tyres from 19mm to over two inches of all sorts of build types & qualities, (if not Dugast and FMB)

[warthog1]

I am 92 kg and 181cm tall, from the first day I ride my bike, I have set up the tyre 30c just for avoid stuck in ditch cover, do you think

At your weight I think you should stick to 28mm, but I find pressures much above 85psi a bit uncomfortable.

There's a quote from John Elliot that's appropriate here.

Even if you actually want to go faster as opposed to enjoying the ride

FWIW I'm 20kg lighter and have run tyres from 19mm to over two inches of all sorts of build types & qualities, (if not Dugast and FMB)

If you spend all of your time below 30km/h then yeah, rolling resistance may be the be all and end all.

https://www.cyclingweekly.com/news/prod ... ics-324578

Go over 30-35kph and aerodynamics are more important.


A test of the varying rolling resistance of various tyres of the same type in varying widths. (these will be faster than Jan's )

https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.co ... comparison

If you run the tyres at the recommended pressure, the wider goers don't roll any faster.

[Bentnose]

I have a bad experience mate
Before I buy this road bike, I ride $75 Kmart bike, it was really hard to put back the wheel, even front wheel but now I will consider to try.
Thanks.

Changing the rear cassette is one of the easiest jobs on a bike, best to get the tools and learn how to do it yourself. Also can be useful to remove the cassette for
cleaning.

Working on cheap bikes is a bit of a pain but a bike like yours should be more serviceable and built to more precise tolerances.

[Thoglette]

If you run the tyres at the recommended pressure, the wider goers don't roll any faster.

Indicating that in the real world (where we have to deal with suspension losses), they’ll be both more comfortable and quicker.

Which of those counts as more important is up to you. Or in this case, the OP

[warthog1]

If you run the tyres at the recommended pressure, the wider goers don't roll any faster.

Indicating that in the real world (where we have to deal with suspension losses), they’ll be both more comfortable and quicker.

Which of those counts as more important is up to you. Or in this case, the OP

Here ya go;
We've also tested all sizes of the GP 5000 at the 15% tire drop air pressure which is a value that is very close to the air pressure that is recommended by most tire manufacturers for a given tire size.


Please be aware that the 15% tire drop air pressure results in a bigger tire giving a more comfortable ride. This is because 15% tire drop, when expressed in an exact height measurement, results in a higher value for the bigger tire because its height is also higher.


As can be seen from the table above, 15% tire drop for the 23-622 is 3.2 mm and 15% tire drop for the 32-622 is 4.5 mm. This means the 32-622 effectively acts as a 40% softer spring when compared to the 23-622.


When we analyze our rolling resistance test results at the 15% tire drop air pressure, we see that the tables have turned and the larger tires do not have have a lower rolling resistance anymore! As we've explained that's mostly because the bigger tire will give a more comfortable ride.


But wait...


In the previous tests where we tested all tires at the same air pressures, the bigger tires had a lower rolling resistance. At the same air pressure, a bigger tire will be less comfortable as tire drop will be less and subsequently works as a harder spring.
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.co ... comparison

Our riding styles are very different.

"Suspension losses", if they can even be quantified, matter less than aerodynamics when I am trying to swap turns at 40+kmh.

I suspect Jan Heine does not ride particularly fast either.

Yes the OP may not care at 20 kmh.

I have gone as wide as 28mm on the back at lower pressure.
No huge improvement in comfort with a definite light bulb profile wider than the 27.5 mm ext rim.
Still have one on there now. The frame wont fit much bigger.

[cyclingnolycra]

warthog, have you read this article which critiques the whole testing regime of drums + tyres?
https://www.renehersecycles.com/testing ... isnt-easy/

To me it raises some very good points which would mean the bicyclerollingresistance article's conclusions are a little bit off. If there are problems in Jan Heine's article, I'd love to know about them.

As you say the aerodynamic loss from the wider tyre is real and very important the faster you are riding.
But it is also clear that wider tyres at lower pressures are faster on roads that are not super smooth. (This is not seen at all in drum tests of tyres.) There's a trade off depending on how good roads you are on and how fast you are riding to find the optimum tyre width. I suspect for us non-pros the optimum width is somewhere around 28-30mm, depending on how bad your roads are. But it's quite hard to test well.

[warthog1]

warthog, have you read this article which critiques the whole testing regime of drums + tyres?
https://www.renehersecycles.com/testing ... isnt-easy/

To me it raises some very good points which would mean the bicyclerollingresistance article's conclusions are a little bit off. If there are problems in Jan Heine's article, I'd love to know about them.

As you say the aerodynamic loss from the wider tyre is real and very important the faster you are riding.
But it is also clear that wider tyres at lower pressures are faster on roads that are not super smooth. (This is not seen at all in drum tests of tyres.) There's a trade off depending on how good roads you are on and how fast you are riding to find the optimum tyre width. I suspect for us non-pros the optimum width is somewhere around 28-30mm, depending on how bad your roads are. But it's quite hard to test well.

Yeah I've had a quick look at it. Was there any mention of aerodynamics? It serms to make a difference here;


Jan heine trundles along fairly slowly I expect.
No problem with that.
Don't come out and say wider tyres are faster however if that is the case.
I am tipping if you are trundling along slowly on wide tyres speed is not exactly your highest priority.

I watch a bit of racing, have raced a bit myself and ride with some pretty good young racers.
I am currently watching the tt in the tdf. Have watched a few stages also.
I aint seeing tyres like Jan Heine is advocating.
They have been riding some fairly shi ite roads too
If wide balloon tyres are truly faster I find it counter intuitive that they aren't being used.

[warthog1]

Here is a bit of a rolling resistance v aerodynamic drag discussion


Notice how rolling resistance starts higher, the two meet around 10mph, and then aerodynamic drag takes off quickly. This is because of the cubic factor of the velocity component of the aerodynamic drag.

https://blog.flocycling.com/aero-wheels ... er-speeds/