Replacement for GP4000s?

[MattyK]

Whilst it's all good to compare crr etc and great stats and info from sites like BRR, but my question is "can the average cycling enthusiast really tell the difference ?

Or is it the classic 'lebel influence' ?

Can anyone pick the difference? Probably not in one thing alone. But combine low CRR tyres, latex tubes, the right pressure, a more aero helmet, tighter jersey, shaved legs, good chain lube, good wheels etc and it will all add up to a meaningful result.

In short, if the price and puncture resistance is similar I’ll take the better rolling tyre please.

[MichaelB]

Whilst it's all good to compare crr etc and great stats and info from sites like BRR, but my question is "can the average cycling enthusiast really tell the difference ?

Or is it the classic 'label influence' ?

Can anyone pick the difference? Probably not in one thing alone. But combine low CRR tyres, latex tubes, the right pressure, a more aero helmet, tighter jersey, shaved legs, good chain lube, good wheels etc and it will all add up to a meaningful result.

In short, if the price and puncture resistance is similar I’ll take the better rolling tyre please.

If you are doing the blue highlighted items, you're already out of the 'average cycling enthusiast' bunch, and well into nerd territory .....

[Mr Purple]

So my front Goodyear Eagle F1 had a blowout halfway down Cootha Front this morning. Looks like a rock strike or something got it - there's a witness mark on the rim and a gaping hole in the sidewall.

While I'm well aware this could have happened to any brand, considering I don't remember hitting anything and the tyres were less than 300km old I'm not particularly impressed.

To make matters worse I then realised the 6mm Allen key I had was actually 5mm, so there was no getting the wheel off. Thanks to Epic Cycles for the tyre change! Now have a GP5000 on the front, and his comments were that the Goodyear sidewalls looked paper thin, and the GP5000 was easier to get on than the Goodyear was to get off.

If anyone wants to know how long it takes to stop a bike with no steering or front brake down Cootha Back, it's 3-5 years. No idea how it stayed upright.

[Comedian]

I've been using exclusively gp4000 for a few years. I do get a very long time out of them.. typically up to 10k. So very happy.

I decided to try some vittoria corsa's the other day.. not the speed. .. the one down. Bit heavier but seem to ride nice. Only one ride so far.

[g-boaf]

So my front Goodyear Eagle F1 had a blowout halfway down Cootha Front this morning. Looks like a rock strike or something got it - there's a witness mark on the rim and a gaping hole in the sidewall.

While I'm well aware this could have happened to any brand, considering I don't remember hitting anything and the tyres were less than 300km old I'm not particularly impressed.

To make matters worse I then realised the 6mm Allen key I had was actually 5mm, so there was no getting the wheel off. Thanks to Epic Cycles for the tyre change! Now have a GP5000 on the front, and his comments were that the Goodyear sidewalls looked paper thin, and the GP5000 was easier to get on than the Goodyear was to get off.

If anyone wants to know how long it takes to stop a bike with no steering or front brake down Cootha Back, it's 3-5 years. No idea how it stayed upright.

Wow, lucky you kept it upright. That could have been a real disaster.

I have Pirelli P-Zero Velo on my other bike (Canyon). I've done a couple of rides on them and they seem alright. They are 23mm size and lighter than my normal S-Works Turbo tyres.

[Mr Purple]

I've done 10,000km on the Pirellis in the past year, they are a good tyre and reasonably easy to fit. Probably would have done that again if Epic had any. GP5000 is a good default option though.

Strava shows me doing 60.1km/hr at the time of the blowout and taking 300m to stop. Probably best not to think too much about that one.

[warthog1]

Running GP5000TL on my giant.
19mm internal 27.5 external width rims.
25 on the front 28 on the back.
Very happy with em so far.
Fit by hand and seat with a track pump.
Roll well, grip well, wear well.
Have a couple of replacements when they wear out.
The Pirelli p zero velo race TLR also test well and I've read a few good reports.
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.co ... o-race-tlr
May try them at some point too.

[warthog1]

Strava shows me doing 60.1km/hr at the time of the blowout and taking 300m to stop. Probably best not to think too much about that one.

Well done staying upright.
Bib change also required after that one!

[Mr Purple]

That was the weird thing, I didn't get any more scared than 'I could be in trouble with this one'. Probably good to keep calm in an emergency at least, even it it was just because I was stuffed at the end of my second lap of Cootha.

I'm not going to claim awesome bike handling skills. More luck. Though having mentally rehearsed it a few times and knowing not to steer or hit the front brake probably helped.

[warthog1]

Have to be some skill there too
Well done.

[Mr Purple]

As a follow-up to that one, replacing the Goodyear on the front with a GP5000 has stopped a subtle but annoying front end vibration issue I was having.

So it turns out the Goodyears achieved the trifecta of being hard to fit, fragile, and not actually being round. The rear looks like it's losing some strips of rubber already as well, so I'll have to replace that one too.

Although a lot of tyre issues are down to luck and your particular wheel/tyre combination, I'm not impressed with that combination of events!

[warthog1]

Thanks for the feedback. They are a scratching too then.
I now they were tubed but, I'll group them with the Hutchinson fusion5 TLRs I got with my prime wheels.
I then went and bought 3 replacements on special.
They fit and seat fairly easily but wore out quickly and not as tough as the GP5000s

[foo on patrol]

Thanks for the feedback. They are a scratching too then.
I now they were tubed but, I'll group them with the Hutchinson fusion5 TLRs I got with my prime wheels.
I then went and bought 3 replacements on special.
They fit and seat fairly easily but wore out quickly and not as tough as the GP5000s

I didn't like the Hutchy Fusions when I first tried them 7yrs ago.

Foo

[warthog1]

I didn't like the Hutchy Fusions when I first tried them 7yrs ago.

Foo

They haven't improved then.
They developed bubbles under the tyre surface.
Had one about the diameter of a 50c piece.
Went off with a loud pop and the tyre stayed up though as the sealant did its' job.
That was the biggest blister but had several other tyres blister also.
Using Hutchinson brand sealant too.
The bloody things also wore quickly and I am not that heavy a bloke at 75-76 kg.
The GP5000TL dump on them on every aspect except price.
Still, I will pay extra for a tyre that works.

[Peter A]

Liking the 5000's also Warty, run tube set and also have 28mmrear and 25mm front, working
well this stage.
I usually pick them up from Chain Reaction on special (UK)

[warthog1]

Liking the 5000's also Warty, run tube set and also have 28mmrear and 25mm front, working
well this stage.
I usually pick them up from Chain Reaction on special (UK)

Yeah same sizing. I need all the help I can get.
A bit more aero on the front is probably as much placebo anything but it is narrower than the rim where the 28 is a touch wider.
The rear has the weight and wear so working well.

[Mr Purple]

So I can confirm that the rear Goodyear Eagle F1 is down to canvas. After 656km.

Absolutely no grip going up Cootha in the wet today. Given the front one blew out a sidewall before 300km I don't think I'll be using those again!

[Peter A]

They must be cr@p MrP, maybe a more race orientated tyre, than the purpose you use
them for ?

[foo on patrol]

They must be cr@p MrP, maybe a more race orientated tyre, than the purpose you use
them for ?

Well I guess this this statement is a weee bit off.


"(The Goodyear Eagle Sport Tyre is an all new tyre from Goodyear that brings grip with responsive feel and durability. Built for everyday riding in bunch rides or commuting this tyre gives you precise control in an affordable package. The Dynamic Pace compound offers grip and longevity with a balanced casing that is light without reducing the life of the tyre. While the folding Aramid Bead reduces the weight of the tyre and ensures you can easily install this tyre.)"

Features
Dynamic:Pace Compounding for Grip and Longevity
Balanced Casing for Weight and Durability
Value-Conscious Performance without Compromise
60 TPI Casing: Balanced durable and lightweight casing lowers rotating weight and improves acceleration while providing a comfortable ride
Folding Aramid Bead: Reduces tire weight and eases installation.

Foo

[Mr Purple]

As above. They’re not marketed as anything other than a road tyre, and seem to have the fragility and short lifespan of a race tyre.

I could have just been unlucky, but if a set of tyres can’t survive 700km of tarmac and concrete work under a 61kg guy what are they actually good for?

[foo on patrol]

As above. They’re not marketed as anything other than a road tyre, and seem to have the fragility and short lifespan of a race tyre.

I could have just been unlucky, but if a set of tyres can’t survive 700km of tarmac and concrete work under a 61kg guy what are they actually good for?

Racing Crits!

Foo

[warthog1]

Whilst it's all good to compare crr etc and great stats and info from sites like BRR, but my question is "can the average cycling enthusiast really tell the difference ?

Or is it the classic 'label influence' ?

Can anyone pick the difference? Probably not in one thing alone. But combine low CRR tyres, latex tubes, the right pressure, a more aero helmet, tighter jersey, shaved legs, good chain lube, good wheels etc and it will all add up to a meaningful result.

In short, if the price and puncture resistance is similar I’ll take the better rolling tyre please.

If you are doing the blue highlighted items, you're already out of the 'average cycling enthusiast' bunch, and well into nerd territory .....

Yeah I'm doing all the blue bits too, apart from latex tubes, tubeless instead.
Particularly on the Sat 7s and Tuesday Mt Alex. Fast swap offs with much better riders than I.
I prob am getting too old and shouldn't be there anymore. Wth though, there are a couple of others my age and I love it. They are my favourite rides

[10speedsemiracer]

So I can confirm that the rear Goodyear Eagle F1 is down to canvas. After 656km.

Absolutely no grip going up Cootha in the wet today. Given the front one blew out a sidewall before 300km I don't think I'll be using those again!

Appreciate you sharing your experience with us Mr Purple. Your sacrifice has helped others avoid the same experience.

[warthog1]

So I can confirm that the rear Goodyear Eagle F1 is down to canvas. After 656km.

Absolutely no grip going up Cootha in the wet today. Given the front one blew out a sidewall before 300km I don't think I'll be using those again!

Appreciate you sharing your experience with us Mr Purple. Your sacrifice has helped others avoid the same experience.

Agreed.
They sound sh ite and are now classified as such.

[jaythefordman]

So I can confirm that the rear Goodyear Eagle F1 is down to canvas. After 656km.

Absolutely no grip going up Cootha in the wet today. Given the front one blew out a sidewall before 300km I don't think I'll be using those again!

Appreciate you sharing your experience with us Mr Purple. Your sacrifice has helped others avoid the same experience.

Agreed.
They sound sh ite and are now classified as such.

Mr Purple had a bad run with them, but I've racked up almost same Kms with absolutely zero issues and barely any wear. Roll beautifully to me, and rate them better than the GP4000s they replaced.