Gravel Bike for Short, Heavy Rider & Urban Commuting??? $1500

[LPlateDave]

I thought since as you guys commute a lot you would be the best one’s to help me out. Thus far I am looking at two bikes linked bellow. Forgive me if long winded. I just wanted to be sure to answer any questions you may have had in one go. Seems there is a lot to consider when choosing one bike for multiple tasks.

My Stats:
Short Stocky Heavy Rider – 100+kg
Male - Age 52 Currently Unfit & Overweight.

Commuting Style:
SOLO Rider
Riding Often / hours at a time.
75% footpaths (includes not so flat segmented brick paths)
25% Urban Road

Early Morning Exercise: (I need to improve my fitness)
100% Road

I want Drop Bars for the extra hand positions and benefit of passing tight spaces. I remember this facet being a benefit on the footpath as well.

Price – Online $1500. Place of Purchase= 99Bikes
I live in a smallish town where my options at the three LBS/s are limited. Covid19 has made availability even harder in relation to this. I will be driving to the 99Bikes outlet store nearest me where they will be fitting me.
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Current Mind Set / Preferences on Bike Selection: One Bike for the following:

Whilst I intend early mornings laps on the road, I still need to negotiate many curbs and a windy bricked (bumpy at times) esplanade. I also need to cross between bike paths, a few grassy short cuts with the usual bumps, cracks and so forth that urban commuters have to put up with then not using the roads.
Tyre Selection: Whilst a 32mm tyre is tempting, 38mm on a Gravel Bike might offer better riding with my 100kg weight & the aforementioned commuting surfaces? Reducing the pressure for comfort and less impact on a smaller tyre seems not to be an option for a heavier rider? Could a 38mm/40mm semi slick offer a somewhat freer rolling experience for my morning laps on road?

Drop Bars Vs Straight:
I like the idea of not taking up so much space on either footpaths or roads. Apart from gravel bikes taking a wider tyre, I’ve read that gravel bikes typically have a slightly wider drop bar then road bikes.

Wheel Size & Handling on Footpaths:
Possibly a smaller wheel for a short guy like me could help. Although it’s been quite some time, I never had an issue with navigating in tight spaces. My balance has always been good. I’ve read a few times articles hinting that 650s offer better handling in tight situations compared to 700c. Perhaps this is going to far in my selection criteria? I’ve also read the speed difference between those two is insignificant if you’re not into racing; which I am not. That said, I do miss the look and feel of my decades old 10 speed racer.
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In fact, I would love a road bike that could fit wider tyres, but for now thinking the transition from a very comfortable (although heavy) full suspension MTB with 26”/1.95 tyres to a 700X32 will most likely be too harsh for my commuting needs. It will take quite some time before I am comfortable leaving the safety of the sidewalk and most likely just relegate my road riding to only early morning exercise laps. For now, I can only afford one bike. I just figured that maybe a gravel bike in this respect could close the gap between my full suspension comfort bike and my more desire to return to my road biking days.

For a heavy rider with my preference I’m thinking carbon forks, 38mm on with 32 spokes front and back should do the trick? I could drop the tyre size to 35 or even 32 slicks as I lose weight and when my confidence builds. When I spend more time on the road, perhaps I can then justify I a second dedicated road bike.
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Here are two options I am currently looking at online.
1. Merida Silex 300 Gravel Bike
https://www.99bikes.com.au/merida21-sil ... matt-black

2. Cube Nuroad Pro Gravel Bike
https://www.99bikes.com.au/cube-21-nuro ... rt-n-black
Whilst I love the look of this one more, I wonder if components are better on the above one? This is where it becomes more in-depth for me and you guys could make a better selection around $1500.

GEARING
I realize the gearing is different between 3X 2X and 1X crank setups + the cassettes. I live in a fairly flat coastal area. Allowing for relative comparisons … what could you tell me in general about the ease of, or difficulty level, when using a 1X11 Vs 2X and or3X when climbing hills? I wonder how much limited I would be with a 1X11. I guess 2X is fine as is my memory from past experiences way back in the day. Just unfamiliar with 1X with 11 options.

With the above two linked bikes in mind … are not the group sets about as good as eachtoher? Although tyres can be changed – the tyres on the second bike seem to be well reviewed. A lot more expensive depending on where you shop from. That said – Max Load on that set of tyres is advertised as 100kg. mmmmmm There really is a lot to consider for us heavy riders.
https://www.metrocycles.com.au/product/ ... 700-x-38c/

If you have read this far … Thank You! Feel free to change my choices using whatever store or website you want. However, know that I am and will be shopping from 99Bikes as is the place I am currently in communication with and have already planned a trip to visit and be fitted in store. It would be best to choose from them if your wish to assist.

TIA.

[nickobec]

The big difference between the two as I see it is shifters SRAM or Shimano. Depending on what works for your hands, that would make decision easy. (If you have not ridden both, you should do before making a decision)

I would not worry about 1x or 2x. The highest gear is 34:34 for the Cube and 44:42 for the Merida, so very little difference. Even the gear spacing at the top is similar. The difference when going downhill the Cube is 50:11 and Merida 44:11 and the difference between the gears at that end. ps my gravel bike is 2x 46/34 with 11/40 cassette, I just leave it in the 34 for gravel and switch up to the 46 for road/bike path.

The Cube is very well priced, the Merida is also good value for money in comparison to other brands.

I would suggest you see both bikes in the flesh and test ride both.

[LPlateDave]

Like my legs, my hands do not have the largest reach. I never considered that could be an issue. Comparing the two bikes in the shop is a great idea. I'll do as you suggest and ask if I can compare the two in the shop. Appreciate the info relating to the gears. TY.

[brumby33]

If I may make a suggestion and considering your weight, lack of fitness (mate, I'm with you there) I would think to suggest a Touring type bike, all steel (Chromoly) which is tough, absorbs rough roads, has excellent gearing for what you want, Mech disc brakes for easy adjustment, has room for fender guards for wet weather, tough as nails, you will not break these bikes too easily as they are designed to carry loads and that includes wheel type. Yes they are a bit heavier than an aluminium or carbon bike but that shouldn't really matter at this point in your riding venture and lets face it, the harder your workout, the better your workout.
You didn't give your location/state/town but I found this to be suitable for your needs....and that is a Fuji Touring bike. I've had such experience with this brand and model albeit a much earlier model that had Sti brakes but the current models are using bar end shifters and once you get used to these, they are brilliant.
https://www.bikeexchange.com.au/a/touri ... /103243727

I ride my Fuji Touring on the 2005 big bike ride from Kosziusko to Kiama and it went fantastic, easy to ride, even fully loaded with pannier bags. so you can see they can take the weight.
Many touring bikes are pretty good gravel rides too with the right tyres aboard.

But not just that touring bike, any touring bike will be the best commuter bike because it's built to handle anything.

My present bike is an Australian brand Vivente World Randoneur, they have pretty much everything you could ask for and they weight 14kgs unloaded. I'm 108kgs and always carry rear panniers and it doesn't even notice it (although I do lol )
Yes they are about $1000 more new than what you stipulated your budget but honestly you don't need anything else, already has mudguards, built in Hub Dyno Lighting and German made Tubus rack.
https://viventebikes.com/

You might be able to find one on ebay or other used sites.

Anyway, just my 5 cents worth, used to be 2 cents but you can't get them anymore

brumby33

[LPlateDave]

All excellent points Brumby. I just spent quite some time looking over those links and a few more branching out from there. I just so happened to be looking at the Fuji Touring Disc earlier today. Sadly even with the smallest frame of that bike has a stand over is 75cm. My Max stand over is 73 cm with me just touching the bar. This is one of my biggest issues with finding a bike size where I don't have to lean so far over when stopping. I'd hate to spend over a grand still not having the freedom when standing off my seat when pulling up to stop. There are bikes out there with 72cm (70 prefered) stand overs clearance on XS frames - it's just that I have limited choices is all. Adding to that many places do not list the standover height in the geometry or no geometry listed at all. I have resorted to using a website called GEOMETRYGEEKS.COM

I do note there is a step through version of the vevente bikes you linked. I live in Hervey Bay QLD. I did find a QLD supplier about 300km from me. I'm just not ready to spend 2600 just yet. That said, quite an impressive setup to say the least. Is all good though. I agree with everything you said which is why I looked at touring bikes earlier today. The Fuji bike is within my range but the more specialized shops seem to present issues with packing and shipping. I could be wrong. Maybe not such a big deal to box up with a rack on? Once again - the stand over is just too high on those bikes for me.

I'm probably better off looking at women's bikes. Scratch that. I'll keep looking. Anything over 72mm stand over is a deal breaker for me. Prefer 70 but then it will most likely mess up my stack and reach. I'll need another few hundred to pay for extenders and or whatever else they do. I really don't want to mess with the 'layback' position of my seat as I would prefer to keep that optimized for my peddling. I fear this is going to be my biggest issue with whatever bike shop I go to.

I'll work it out. Thanks for you reply. I'm going to give the researching a bit of a break. My mind is mush. Best I can say is $2000 is my top limit, but that includes any work that needs doing for fitting someone not so easy as me and or postage + a local bike ship to assist with fitting. If I can find one that does not have an issue with helping people who have bought online. Thankfully a guy in the next rural town seems pretty good with that. At least now I know a little better what I want. Like tyers, spokes and all that. He might even add a trekking bar if it helps. He actually had some good ideas. Your right about the steel and extra weight ... least of my issues about now. Chuckles.

[LPlateDave]

I probably should of included Short in the title as well.

Before signing off for the night this is what I have found thus far. It's in stock so should be able to try it out first hand.

Merida Silex 400 Gravel Bike
https://www.99bikes.com.au/merida21-sil ... blue-black

https://geometrygeeks.bike/bike/merida-silex-400-2021/ (Lists Standover Height)
https://99spokes.com/bikes/merida/2020/silex-400 (lists weight=10.2kg)

Standover Height = 71.6cm (Frame XS / 44) I know many people care less about this aspect when racing about. For me it's a big deal when I decide to stop at traffic lights on the road. A quick dismount of the seat slipping forward onto my frame with a slight cocking of the handle bars and right thigh resting high up against the frame ready to pounce off the lights once green.

The long wheel base should make up the reach. In fact there is barley much difference in stack and reach between the XS & S ... but quite a bit in Standover for a guy like me and my preference for when stopping in traffic.

The 650B sized wheels (which I beleive is the case with the XS?) are something I am used to as well. Slight advantage whipping in and out, and or around things on the go.

It's a bit more than I wanted to spend but is up a notch on the silex 300. Still under 2K with the Gold Price.
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[nickobec]

...

It's in stock so should be able to try it out first hand.

Merida Silex 400 Gravel Bike

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It's a bit more than I wanted to spend but is up a notch on the silex 300. Still under 2K with the Gold Price.

The big difference here is the Shimano GRX400 Hydraulic Disc Brakes

It is the one upgrade I would recommend, far better braking.

The one caveat is do a test ride and see how the brifters (brake/shift levers) feel in your hands, especially as you mention issues with your hands and reach. I took a Norco AR1 equipped with GRX hydraulic disk brakes for a spin and the brifters felt huge (I am coming from SRAM with rim brakes).

The other thing in the 400's favour is it is in stock. Supply is still "interesting" now, some brands, models, sizes are readily available, others are weeks or months away. (ie the Cube is not currently available according to 99 bikes website it is only a "sneak peak")

[baabaa]

Do what most people who commute by bike did 10 years ago and get a surly - simple, strong bikes that are fun to ride, can be used on a whole range of surfaces and are easy to maintain as they have bits on them that work and keep on working - they also make a huge range of frame sizes and wheels that best suit that size.
Price level maybe an issue but if you found the right bike and put some extra $$ away to get one they will serve you very well and the price spread over years makes them a worthwhile investment.