Postby snafuspyramid » Sun Jul 23, 2017 2:57 pm
Height is not very useful in determining frame size. The relative length of your legs (inseam), torso and arms can be very different among people of the same height.
As well as your basic physical dimensions, your level of function affects fit just as much, particularly your flexibility, especially in your posterior chain (broadly, glutes, back and hamstrings). Hip flexibility also matters. For instance, as the video notes, whether you can easily touch your toes will affect your ideal frame geometry a lot.
Your level of fitness matters enormously too. Do you have good core strength - for instance, can you hold a bridge for 60 seconds without too much trouble? And what about cardio and leg strength - how much power will you put down on the pedals? Are your neck and shoulder muscles accustomed to the additional strain in a more bent over position?
If you're a very strong rider with a good core you'll be much more comfortable, all other things being equal, in a lower more stretched out position, because the action of your legs will tend to support your upper body. Riders who aren't as strong - or who aren't interested in riding a particular bike hard - will prefer a more upright position, to allow more of their body weight to be borne by their buttocks on the saddle and to take some strain off their neck and shoulders.
Although not necessary to select a frame size (so probably a bit OT), your lateral fit - how your feet and hands connect with the bike - matters too. The angle at which your feet meet the pedals, the respective height of each pedal (i.e. whether shims are needed), the fore/aft position of your cleats and - perhaps more controversially - the distance between your feet (Petersen's "q factor") all depend on your particular dimensions, degree of flexibility and functional strength. There's also saddle selection, which similarly depends on individual morphology (pelvis width) and how aggressive your overall position is. These play just as much of a role in preventing overuse injuries and pain as frame size. Then there's the joys of handlebar shapes and sizes...
The point I'm getting to is that a professional fitting is usually money well spent. Once you've got a good ballpark on the key parameters, you can transfer them to new bikes readily (particularly stack / reach) and have a good base for adjustment as your fitness and flexibility improve.
On the other hand, this is an internet forum, so there's a tendency to thrash fairly basic questions to within an inch of their life. Your body has an enormous capacity to compensate for asymmetries, weaknesses or suboptimal fit. It's only where you ride enough to overcome this capacity that fitting becomes critical - so like most bike related pedantry, the more you ride, the more it matters.
If you're just looking for a bike to get around, lose some weight or do the occasional weekend warrior - and you're not dropping a huge chunk of change - near enough is good enough. Find a bike shop that will let you try out a variety of different bikes on a trainer, maybe try some of the online fit calculators for a rough guide, then err on the side of a more upright position (longer head tube / shorter effective top tube).
You'll not regret buying a bike that you can make more aggressive by dropping a few handlebar spacers or just using the drops, but you'll definitely regret buying a bike that's too aggressive. (Incidentally, I love the endurance bike concept, which as far as I can tell is about selling people bikes that aren't cripplingly uncomfortable for unconditioned riders but still look and cost like race bikes).