Shimano 105 10 Speed - Model and Updates???

[Dreama]

Hi All,

I have done a bit of searching (not really sure what to search for though).
Currently I have 10 Speed Shimano 105 on a Specialized Tarmac that is well over 10 years old. I'm not sure what version of 105 it is.

As its getting older, what can i do about upgrades? Being 10 speed, can i start fitting the newer 10 speed Tiagra?

i would like to upgrade:
The Shifters,
Front derailleur
Rear derailleur
Rim Brakes (unsure what model these are - as current ones arent labelled)
At some point also the front crankset.
Obviously the Chain and Cassette are fairly easy to replace, but i would like to go to a 11-30 cassette - would that fit on standard derailleur?

Any suggestions?

sorry if these are dumb Q's. i have read through Duck's tech and it does seem like i can mix and match Shimano 10 speed, but just wanting a bit more specific help

thanks guys
Cheers

[10speedsemiracer]

First things first, you may have 105-5700 or 105-5600. 105-5600 has the shifter cables exiting at right angles outside the shift lever, 5700 has hidden shift cabling.
Shimano Tiagra 4700 (10sp) shifters will not work on a 105-5700 rear derailleur as the Tiagra shifters (4700) use road 11sp cable pull format. So that's out. What if you went to 11sp with a new or NOS groupset. Shimano 5800 (11sp) was very decent and there are a few NOS groups floating around. Shimano 105 r7000 is also an option but Aus stock prices means we're at risk of overcapitalizing the bike in question...maybe. Would need to know details of your rear wheel/hub to be certain that we can do 11sp.

Do you have a budget to work with?
Also, Ultegra 6700 works with your stuff, but we're faced with the same issue of it being 10yo+.

The other option is to piece together as many NOS parts as possible and maybe finish off with aftermarket shift levers (eg; Microshift etc).

Or throw an entire Tiagra 4700 groupset on there..but even that's going to be $700-$800

[Dreama]

Thanks 10speedsemiracer - I'm guessing its the 105-5600 as it has the cables coming out from the sides (right angle as you say).
yes, i dont want to over capitalize on it, hence why im trying to work out what would work with whats there. or replace / upgrade as i go.
if i had the spare cash, i would throw on the 105 11 speed, but i think thats a waste of money on this bike now.
What does NOS mean?

[10speedsemiracer]

Sorry, bad habit.

NOS = New Old Stock, refers to stuff that has been in stock for some time but never sold.

If we're doing the refresh on a budget, it's important to isolate what is broken/worn and start with those components, possibly replacing with less-worn used pieces if we can't find any New Old Stock.

5700 was an incremental change to 5600 with slight (alleged) improvements to shifting and (according to Shimano) increased braking force/response for the 5700 calipers vs 5600. I actually have the 105-5700 calipers on my old steelie (late 80s) and like them a lot but I've also had lots of 5600 (and Ultegra 6600) thru my hands and liked that as well.

If the shifting feels a little off I'd start with a new set of good quality cables. If the braking feels sluggish, maybe disassemble and clean the calipers (keep track of the small bits), reassemble and again, and then fit new good cables. Some people get excited for New Bike Day, I'm one of those that loves New Cable Day (sorry, rambling now).

May also be time for a new Bottom Bracket and a headset service if the bike feels sluggish generally. Also, check chain/chainrings/cassette for wear. Sorry for the essay.

[10speedsemiracer]

Also, re the 11-30t cassette, Shimano officially indicate a 28t maximum for the 5600 rear derailleur. From the sounds of it, I'm guessing your Tarmac is approx a 2008 model.

A compact crank (50/34) was an option/available and if you don't already have this fitted, would be a good option to offset the fact that you're limited to a 28t max cassette.

[Dreama]

Thanks for the replies,
I’ve just had the Bottom bracket done at LBS - while there they checked the crankset and reckon they weren’t too bad. (They are 50/34 - I’m just a bad climber)
I’ve done a few cables myself (improved gear changing a lot).
I think next might be working on brake cables and maybe clean up.

[Duck!]

Just a bit more....

As mentioned above, 10-sp. 105 spans two generations; 5600 series, produced from mid-2005 (for '06 model year) through to 2010, with 5700 from mid-'10 to 2014. The major visual difference between the two is the hidden cabling of the 5700 vs 5600's exposed cabling. Material spec between the two is basically the same.

The major weak point of 5600 is the left shifter; as a cost-cutting effort, this unit is compatible with both double and triple-chainring shifting, and is therefore exceptionally sensitive to proper setup. Many shifter units were replaced due to broken internals. Around 2009 a new double-specific shifter (ST-5601) was introduced, which overcame the problem, while the 3-sp. version was renumbered 5603. The easiest way to pick which version you have is by the front name plate, the original version will only have the Shimano 105 logos, while the later forms will also have the word "double" or "triple" as applicable.

Although looking tidier, the hidden cabling of 5700 has a considerable detrimental effect on shift feel; it's a lot stiffer & heavier. Keep the 5600 shifters alive as long as possible, they're much better! Or for an upgrade, hunt out previous-model 4600 Tiagra; these are actually cosmetically-tweaked 7800 Dura-Ace, and among the best shifters Shimano ever made!

Derailleurs are similar, except the 5700 got a later update to increase its clearance to 32T from the 28T max of both 5600 & early 5700. Front derailleur leverage got a slight tweak for 5700 to allow it to swing a bit further without increasing cable stroke, this is to allow for the 5700 crank having the rings spaced a bit further apart. Due to this spacing difference it's best to generationally match the front derailleur to the crank; although it's easier to tune a later derailleur to an older crank than vice versa. Shifter compatibility is fine. The bridge across the front of the cage is a weak point for both series, but less so for 5700. If you want to upgrade in this department, jump to Dura-Ace, the cage in much more strongly built.

There was a considerable change to brake leverage with 5700, significantly improving modulation. Do not mix generations in the brake department!

[gabe76]

If you're still tweaking your bike build, I can add some experiences. Last few years I've run two bikes running a mix of 10 speed Shimano from Dura Ace to 105. Brake-wise using the newer levers with older calipers is actually approved as OK by Shimano, its the other way that's inappropriate. I've done it the former way and it's been fine. I've also tried the newest type of true double-pivot calipers 9100 and they are so good with 7900 levers I'd skip to the next gen of calipers altogether. (the best rim brake combo I've ever used is Ultegra 6703 levers with TRP RG957 long-reach brakes).
As mentioned by others above, I've read a lot of complaints online about how terrible the 2-gen 10spd levers are, but I don't see the problem having used both Ultegra series, maybe its a personal thing.
If you're particular about max tooth clearance you need to look for special versions of GS rear derailleurs - these came in Ultegra RD-6700A GS & 105 5700 (I forget model code). They have a cage stamped "30T" and were listed as OK for 32 in doubles & 30 in triple drivetrains.
With 10spd Shimano you have to watch for the triple crankset difference between 105 and the other series - the granny chainring mounts differently. Also the already noted by others break of compatibility with Tiagra cable pull.