Hub Dynamos in Australia

[petie]

This particular but cannot accept a hub dynamo, hence my interest in the sunup. Bottle dynamo is the only other non hub option I can think of. Apart from the magnic lights which won't cut the mustard.

You spotted the mentions of the velogical dynamo?
I haven't read up on them but they've had a few posts mention them (on the remote chance you've not already seen said posts - apologies if you have)

http://www.velogical-engineering.com/rim-dynamo-en" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://swhs.home.xs4all.nl/fiets/tests/ ... ex_en.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

https://lawschoolissoover.wordpress.com ... im-dynamo/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Likely mentioned by others but it appears to be only 1.5w as per above link.

dwmckee of bikeforums.net says:

No. Watts are on the left scale, not the right. At 20 kph you are just above 4 watts it looks like. At around 12 KPH (~7-8 mph) you hit 1 watt output. At about 14.5 kph (~9 mph)you hit 2 watts. They sell 3 different output models and this is the middle one (Trekking). They sell a higher output unit that has higher wattage at lower speeds if you need it. I like this one because it has ample power in the ranges I ride in. If it had higher output I'd be putting in more of my own power and wasting the output. The other great thing is that when you are not using it there is zero drag (unlike hubs which always add slight drag).

I know this not for everyone, but I personally am pretty happy with it. It is on the pricey side, but that is not such a big deal to me as I am willing to pay for something that really solves a problem for me the way I like it.

I had a lot of opportunity for wet weather riding this spring and I can say with certainty that it has zero slippage problem in wet weather. It really is ideal for LED lighting. All of the other dynos on the market are older technology based on higher drain pre LED lighting. (All of the dyno models out there are basically unchanged for the past decade, and have not updated to optimize for the lower power needs of LED lights.)

I'll have to say that the mounting system is a bit crude, but once you have it set it is very solid and dependable. The only caution is that this is not for riding in mud that can get up to your rims. If that happens you are going to have some trouble with it working properly. I ride roads and crushed gravel and this has never skipped a beat.

(Post 25 http://www.bikeforums.net/electronics-l ... ation.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)

Thankd for the summary post rifraf, awesome work! I had spotted velogical, but forgot about them. I tried contacting them multiple times about a year ago and never got an email back. So I've tried again! But i might just go with a bottle option for the time being, although I may wait to see how eldavo reviews them!

[il padrone]

Popular back in the days of yore were ye old Sanyo

The old Sanyo Dynapower dyno that mounted on the chainstays where a kickstand would otherwise sit behind the bottom bracket, they were perfectly placed to pick up crud from the road and slip in the wet. As experienced in many a wet night country Audax ride. Union also brought out a version that had a gritted surface on the drum but wasn't a non-slip solution, more of a better way to pick up crud. Both the Sanyo and Union had issues with the bearings going so I wouldn't buy either of these dyno's of the 1980's ithout an inspection. If you do however find a good Union dyno they can be modified to engage/disengage from a cable, people often used a downtube gear shifter mounted on the seatpost or seattube to operate the dyno. Handy.

.....and that is why the sensible rider would modify the mounting to get it out of the crud. Been running mine on my road bike this way for over 20 years now. Happily running now with a Supernova E3 headlight, and a B&M Seculite Plus tail.

[zebee]

I was looking at velological for a recumbent and they answered my mail within a couple of days. Check http://www.bentrideronline.com/messageb ... hp?t=96734" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for a longterm review. Pretty much rider was happy with it in all respects except it is a little noisy.

I will be getting one for the trike as it has drum brakes and no one makes rear hub dynamos. (You can get drum front dynamos but they will require more faffing about for this trike)

[ianganderton]

Just building up my 2 new SP PD-8s into wheels and thought It worth a mention just how small they are.

I was surprised when I opened the box.



Built into a wheel they are virtually invisible as something different which is perfect for my needs

[MichaelB]

Just building up my 2 new SP PD-8s into wheels and thought It worth a mention just how small they are.

I was surprised when I opened the box.

Built into a wheel they are virtually invisible as something different which is perfect for my needs

They are a nice piece of kit.

About to transfer mine to a new rim (DT Swiss R460db), and they are really good. I justified mine as for a total package, it weighed less than the Magic Shine 808/818 setup that I had.

Just now grabbed a leftover Supernova E3 Triple from baalzamon , so have a spare headlight now

[eldavo]

I just spoilt myself testing a few lights on a midnight ride Sat night:

1. I really loved the 4 LED flood light Nitelights for offroad flood (older model, 1100 lumen era probably, inherited them on a used bike purchase). One auxiliary option to the Luxos U IQ2 running on the SonDelux.
The 4xLED light only on bar with o-ring stayed in place but was easy to adjust to the road or bush, and the up/down switch at back to adjust brightness or switch on/off by holding. I think they're using only one button to cycle through instead of up/down separately, I didn't have a problem with full finger gloves on. Low speed in easy terrain I didn't feel the need for higher than low power with this light, so I'll just test battery run time on a longer ride. It has a temperature cut-out so can't test run time meaningfully off of the bike. It came with a helmet semi-spotlight beam and an aging near useless but flashy ebay battery enclosure with voltage readout. I'm not doing speed or technical terrain so won't use the helmet light or the aging ebay battery.
http://www.nitelights.com.au/store/c6/M ... IALS_.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.nitelights.com.au/store/p38/ ... ts%29.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

2.The Panasonic SafeRide 80 was also good as an offroad high beam auxiliary to the Luxos U. I'm able to adjust its beam level on the bar to give me the top half beyond the StVZO cut-off, and power low/high on/off with the single button. Battery run time I haven't had much luck with 2450 - 2600mAh rechargable AA cells that achieve that get their full capacity at low charge rates, but can't supply it with higher discharge light use. Definitely nice to have the dynamo and Luxos U doing the full time job.

3. I used amber lens glasses for the first time, and it made all the lights nicer.

[il padrone]

Just building up my 2 new SP PD-8s into wheels and thought It worth a mention just how small they are.

I was surprised when I opened the box.

New version of the SON28 is a similar size. I would love to have one sometime, but my old version SON28 just refuses to die - now at 28,000kms/5 years with no problems, no maintenance needed.

[il padrone]

I just spoilt myself testing a few lights on a midnight ride Sat night:......

You carry a hatchet on tours and rides ?? What for? Fireman? Mass-murderer? Jus an anti-dote to aggressive moron-motorists?

[baabaa]

I was surprised when I opened the box.

and me, I went a sight unseen blue one. Was kinda pleased outta-the-box as the blue is firstly a nice blue but also a very close match to the hope tech skewer and hub blue.

[eldavo]

I just spoilt myself testing a few lights on a midnight ride Sat night:......

You carry a hatchet on tours and rides ?? What for? Fireman? Mass-murderer? Jus an anti-dote to aggressive moron-motorists?

That's just my day supply run setup. I have a bigger one to go on the other side for tours

#walkingdeadbicycle Testing a few lights along with the #granforsbruks hatchet with magnetic stowed knife inside handle. I also have a similar longer handled hatchet with wood/rope saw blade in handle that can go on the other side of the rack. This smaller one with sharper knife blade obviously better for the #walkingdead for the old one-two left jab stab right full hatchet blow. It has a hammer head back so you don't bite blades into the bones and get them stuck, good for #melee through a pack. #speakingfromexperience #rickgrimes #vannicholas #amazonrohloff #philipssaferide #cygolite #expilion720 #hotshotmicro #buschandmuller #luxosuiq2 #humpertspacebugel #sondelux #pletscher #rohloff #speedhub #tubus #thudbuster #brooksb68 #magellan #cyclo505 #shimano #clickr #solidtyres #tannus

[ianganderton]

Finally got the dynamo systems installed on both the bikes today and been for a quick test ride round the 'hood.

The Axa Blueline 30 has plenty of light for our needs. Much better than our previous commuter lights. Good visibility in traffic and plenty of light for a very dark Centenial Park at 30km/h.

At €15 I'm super happy!!

On the rear we have got B&M Toplight Line plus. They are pretty big and I've had to bodge seat post mounts from rear reflectors.

The size and way they distribute the light mean they are VERY VERY visible.

I need to look at the mounting of Natalie's. It's just touching the back of her leg sometimes. Mine is no where near. The difference is the size of the bike frames.

It has an off switch but won't switch off while riding. It's more a stand light killer. Ideal when parking the bike in a public place when a stand light could attract unwanted attention.

[eldavo]

Just noticed these local 36 hole Shimano hub dynamos non-disc, internal roller brake, $40-45. I think they've been discussed before. The lean looking black one got me thinking.
http://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/?kw=dynamo


730g weight be fair if the brake was useful, but I can't see any physical roller brake in that bare hub minimal diameter, if the dynamo coil is on the right side. I am now looking for pics of the braking side/torque arm/actuation. Another link says "B-type" roller brake modulation grade.

I'd like to find a polished 32H version (or manually polish a 32H version) of something like above with internal roller brake, lace it into the original 32H faux wood track rims (no rim brake surface) of bike below, combine it with a rear 32H polished Sturmey S2C hub with chromed and drilled coaster brake torque arm to keep to the single front lever/cable and get the original rims back.



I went with a cheap new wheelset with rim brake surface and S2 rear hub to get rolling a wheel in anger in the meantime. The Sturmey S2 rear is lovely, the coaster version maybe not as sweet, but I'd even consider the S2C rear brake only. Just not confident without some front brake on the recreational coastal sunset rides, second half of rides after dark (hence seeking dynamo hub for a nice permanent light, I have a spare polished Edelux I can use that is small/handsome. I can do emergency braking for brake failure on long downhill with foot on tyre, but the reaction time and precision isn't isn't good enough for child/dog/tourist/daydreamer etc. Got 2 gears, need at least 2 brakes wisdom tells me

[petie]

So, got my new bike up and running at last running an SP PD8, Supernova E3 Pure HBM and E3 taillight. Comments from the bunch have been overwhelmingly positive on both looks and visibility. I have to say, despite faffing about for hours with the wiring to make it super neat and clean, the minimalist beauty is so, so worth it Slight buzz, I think from the dynamo, felt through the light steel fork, super light aluminium stem and light quadquadtriplesuper butted handlebars at 45km/h+ (tailwind assisted ) which is nice knowing all that effort is turing into something. Pics only if I'm harassed enough.

[eldavo]

Picsorban

[petie]

Picsorban

Don't ban me. Stop, stop.

[eldavo]

Got a link to more about the bike? The peace sign head badge is groovy man

[petie]

Got a link to more about the bike? The peace sign head badge is groovy man

Thanks, fashioned myself from Sugru. Trying to be a positive activist and all

I guess I'd better do a separate build thread!

[warthog1]

2.The Panasonic SafeRide 80 was also good as an offroad high beam auxiliary to the Luxos U. I'm able to adjust its beam level on the bar to give me the top half beyond the StVZO cut-off, and power low/high on/off with the single button. Battery run time I haven't had much luck with 2450 - 2600mAh rechargable AA cells that achieve that get their full capacity at low charge rates, but can't supply it with higher discharge light use. Definitely nice to have the dynamo and Luxos U doing the full time job.

Same set up I have with the saferide 80 and luxos u
I agree re the lousy run time on the saferide. I charge it daily.
I think the time on high is limited to about 1.5 hrs regardless of what batteries you use.
I've just got aldi NiMh in there at the moment.
I leave the saferide on low most of the time. I switch it to high where there are kangaroos and no street lighting on my commute. The broader beam almost washes away that of the luxos even when it is on high.
I'm very happy with the set up. The only thing I think I need to augment it is a helmet light to fill in the nearside periphery when I am turning and the cutoff beam drops away as the bike leans over.

[warthog1]

Picsorban

Don't ban me. Stop, stop.

Nice looking minimalist set up. Very clean
I'd like to see some more pics too if you get around to it.

[Virgil Walker]

I jump in here with trepidation. I know lights generate many arguments and strong opinioins. I just want some information.

For about five years, I think, I've happily used an SP-PD8 with a Philips Saferide 60 and, for a long time a Spaninga rear light; lately I've used a B&M Secula. Reliable, effective lighting that has worked for me in Australia and abroad in many situations—recreational riding, touring, commuting, Audax; in dust, heat, rain, hail & snow; on concrete, bitumen & gravel; in mud and thru more than axle high water. I also had a Shimano DH–3N80 when I was using rim brakes.

Recently, in extraordinary circumstances while overseas, I lost my beloved custom built bike. I needed to replace it quickly and bought a Trek Domane SLR 6 Disc. Best riding long distance Audax-style bike I've ever had. But …

… it uses a 12 mm thru axle. No one, so far as I know, makes a 12 mm thru axle hub dynamo.

Both SP & Schmidt (SON) make 15 mm thru axle dynamos. I've written to Schmidt asking if they plan to make a 12 mm dynohub or if they have any advice on running the 15 mm thru axle version of their dynohub with a 12 mm adapter axle. They haven't replied.

I asked the Trek shop where I bought the bike if they know of any adapters that would allow me to run either a standard QR version of the SP or SON dynohubs, or the 15 mm thru axle versions. They couldn't help me. So …

… some questions:

1) Has anyone used a 15 mm thru axle dynohub from either Schmidt or SP (I know there've been problems with the first version of these) with a 12 to 15 mm adapter axle (this is an aluminium sleeve that fits inside the 15 mm thru axle)?

2) Has anyone used a QR version of SON or SP dynamos with any sort of adapter to Trek style 12 mm thru axles? (I think I've read that Trek use DT Swiss hubs and fittings, but haven't been able to confirm this.)

3) Any other thoughts?

Tx
VW
PS Sorry if this doesn't belong here. If so, point me in the right direction.

[eldavo]

Nice to hear about the SafeRide 60, I picked one up in a Bike24 order since it was on clearance and was liked in old reviews, and the Philips products are discontinued so it was cheap and worth trying I thought.

With your axle issue, unless the 15mm dynamo axle is made with replaceable hub adaptors for different axles, 15 can't be reduced to 12.

So your idea of starting small with a QR axle dynamo, and adding onto it to fit the 12mm through axle dropout, could be machined up and would have to use the QR axle of the dynamo. There was a guy in the USA I believe who was on the MTBR forum making such solutions to order. I believe Aushiker was in touch with him due to a fork/dynamo situation he found himself in. I don't recall his solution but I think it was a sideways alternative.

Off this topic, in response to my own search a few posts back for 32 hole dynamos and internal hub brakes, I've concluded such things don't exist. I can get a 32H rear kickback S2C hub that is with coaster brake (currently have an S2 without coaster brake) but it's not common and another chunk of change and doesn't net a dynamo front brake so pushed back on list of things I don't need to do.

[wqlava1]

I think that Rawland will have 12mm adaptors for 15mm axles in their webshop when they start selling Ravns. I had an email from them saying to wait, a week or 2 back. I think that it will still be another couple of months (and as many will attest, time is fluid with Rawland timelines, but I have a couple of good frames from them that show that sometimes they deliver very satisfyingly), and that's where I'll buy when the need arises.

[Virgil Walker]

Thanks for the replies.

Coincidentally, after getting impatient with them, Schmidt replied last night to say that they're developing a version with 12 mm thru axle and Centrelock disc that might be available toward the end of this year.

I may wait until then, as I think it's best to not use adapters &c, and I'd prefer to keep to thru axle than use an adapted 9 mm QR.

Meanwhile, I'll have to come up with some reasonable long-life battery alternative. I've gotten used to being disappointed when manufacturers, reviewers, and users say that Brand XYZ are excellent long-life battery lights and then reveal they mean 1.5 to 3 hours, which is useless for my purposes. Of course, those lights are designed for commuting & trail riding, but what's the point of lights you have to recharge after a few hours and for which you have to carry a recharger that takes 4–9 hrs to do its job?

Philips Saferide: IMO it's an excellent light. That Dutch fella—xswh?—on the Candlepower forums and his own website rates them highly, as do some other reviews. When I've been on rides with people who have Edeluxes & similar the Philips seemed to perform just as effectively, tho it's difficult to do direct comparisons when you're riding in a paceline. And/but they're much cheaper.

Early Saferides had a flimsy mounting bracket, so that's something to watch out for. And without awkward looking work arounds, there aren't as many mounting options for the Philips as with Edeluxes &c. You can mount them at the fork crown or, as I did later, flip them in their mount and place them on the front mudguard, perhaps supported by an extra set of stays.

The only time my Philips ever gave any trouble was after cyclonic rain: I'd mounted it far forward on the mudguard and too close to the wheel. I surmise the spray from the wheel got inside it. It didn't stop while riding but only gave out a weak light the next day. After a few days it dried out and worked fine. I stress this was with the light in a place it wasn't designed for and after three or four hours in drenching drenching drenching rain and strong wind that no one should have been riding in (I didn't have a choice). When mounted at the fork crown I never had any problem with it—even in an actual typhoon.

FWIW, the beam pattern of the battery powered Saferide 80 is rated very highly in many reviews—often cited as the best of any road light. However, most reviews bemoan it's poor (replaceable) battery life. The Saferide 60 has a smaller reflector. Perhaps the ideal would be to somehow convert the Saferide 80 to dynopower—XSHW says he has done this but I can't find the details, and in any case am probably not electronically adept enough to do it.

[warthog1]

FWIW, the beam pattern of the battery powered Saferide 80 is rated very highly in many reviews—often cited as the best of any road light. However, most reviews bemoan it's poor (replaceable) battery life. The Saferide 60 has a smaller reflector. Perhaps the ideal would be to somehow convert the Saferide 80 to dynopower—XSHW says he has done this but I can't find the details, and in any case am probably not electronically adept enough to do it.

It is very good. Much better than the luxos u I also have. Very broad even spread of light. I run it on low most of the time which is still quite good as the runtime on high is woeful.
A dyno powered version would be great but no chance of that now with Philip's demise in the bike light market
I have no electrical skills at all so I'm not doing it either.

[find_bruce]

FWIW, the beam pattern of the battery powered Saferide 80 is rated very highly in many reviews—often cited as the best of any road light. However, most reviews bemoan it's poor (replaceable) battery life. The Saferide 60 has a smaller reflector. Perhaps the ideal would be to somehow convert the Saferide 80 to dynopower—XSHW says he has done this but I can't find the details, and in any case am probably not electronically adept enough to do it.

It is very good. Much better than the luxos u I also have. Very broad even spread of light. I run it on low most of the time which is still quite good as the runtime on high is woeful.
A dyno powered version would be great but no chance of that now with Philip's demise in the bike light market
I have no electrical skills at all so I'm not doing it either.

If you come across a Saferide 80 for sale, let me know - I am interested in making one dynamo powered